When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yes. But in good conscience, I cannot tell you to put everything back together as is. Not with those Dormans in there. Read this thread. You will find plenty of Dorman failures and they are not pretty.
Ok thank you! Do you have a part number for the motorcraft cam phasers? and is the dealership the only people to get them from? I havent seen much other than the Dormans listed online?
Don't have the part number, but it's easy to find. Look for the seller OEM Select on eBay. He sells a whole package with all Motorcraft parts in one package specifically for this job, FAR cheaper than you'll ever get from a dealership.
If you painted a yellow mark for the cam "sprocket <-> head" position AND painted yellow marks on the chains to correspond with sprocket timing marks. THEN - reinstalled chains with manufacturer colored links aligned with the sprocket timing marks (as @Martian said in post #2828, "you're timed"). If the yellow cam "sproket <-> head" painted dots are no longer aligned - I'd say that means it was NOT timed perfectly when you dissambled it, for whatever reason.
You don't need to dissamble it again. You can "verify" correct timing without regard to marked chain links by counting exactly 30 outer links from the CRANK srocket mark (NOT including the link straddling the crank sproket mark) up to the link NEXT TO (BUT NOT STRADDLING) the cam sprocket timing mark - IN BOTH DIRECTIONS and on BOTH L & R SIDES.
AND, I agree whole heartedly with @Martian - "get those dorman's outta' there" For the labor you have invested to get here - the $459.00 is well worth it.
Don't have the part number, but it's easy to find. Look for the seller OEM Select on eBay. He sells a whole package with all Motorcraft parts in one package specifically for this job, FAR cheaper than you'll ever get from a dealership.
How do I find the seller oem select? When I search I get everything and everybody but them. Have an item number maybe we can search for?
Has this repair advice worked out now that some time has passed ?
Does it pay to replace the solenoid housing ?
Was thinking I should replace oil and water pump while engine is apart ?
Has Ford modified this replacement parts and how can I insure I get correct modified parts ?
1. So far 1 year and 14 thousand miles later, so far so good.
2. By solenoid housing, do you mean the rubber grommet or the Valve Cover? Which solenoid your are talking about? If it's broken replace it yes.
3. Oil pump if you feel you need to. Water pump is unnecessary with this job but like the oil pump, if you feel it needs one, sure.
4. Ford did modify the parts, they will be stamped with the new numbers.
I am asking for my husband, he is not computer savvy at all. I have researched this problem for months trying to help. He has a 2007 F150 5.4 3v that he has been trying to fix for about 6 months now. Originally the oil pump went out, cam locked up and it sheared the dial pin the phaser. Ford is no help and he and his mechanic friends just can't figure this out. Ford said crankshaft in play due to thrush bearings being bad so he replaced them. Now they say he just needs a new motor. He has sunk so much time and $ into this truck already so if anyone can help we would be so very greatful.
So far he has changed
Phasers
Chains
Tentioners
Oil pump
Oil filter
Spark plugs
Guides
Main bearings and bolts
Thrush bearings
Cam phaser bolts
He has checked/cleaned
VCT Solenoids
Oil passage hose
The truck will crank up and idle in and out of gear for an hr or more absolutely fine. When he puts it in gear and backs up it starts missing and making rattling noises. He can put it in N and race the motor and it will stop again until he puts it in gear and gives it gas.
The codes he got from it yesterday were
Cam retarded in Bank 2
Random misfire
One thing I noticed when I found this thread was, in the picture on the crankshaft sprocket the keyway is at 12 and the little dot is at 7. Everything else I found says keyway at 11 and dot at 6. So I'm a bit confused. Could this be the problem?
07-28-2016, 02:21 PM
