F150Torqued

You'll be fine. It just happened to land on the Cyl 1 Exhaust stroke when you shut it down. Just PER CHANCE the chain links ligned up with the two phasers aligned with "R" and "L" on the opposite sides. Your lucky. The chain marks would lign up that way only once every 122 crankshaft revolutions. Many guys get concerned that the marks don't lign up and they fear it means it had jumped time.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-r...3/#post4475795


But you ask "will this make a difference" No, it will be fine. SO LONG as you don't try to rotate the cams - without the chains in place. Certainly THAT would result in valve/poston contact.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/timing-...2/#post4774170


Luckily, you state that you "put the new ones and the chains + guides back on just like they came off" If you did not move anything and installed new phasers exactly like they came off, you'll be fine ( YOU JUST TIMED IT ON THE EXHAUST STROKE OF CYL 1 instead of the Compression Stroke normally recommended). But everything else turns out to be the same - excpet what you notice with "the passenger side went on but there was no tension on the sprocket like on the drivers side". THAT would have been opposite if you had rotated the engine forward (clockwise) ONE crankshaft revolution and aligned the keyway before you dissambled. Different vlave springs were under tension. And it would have done you NO GOOD to remove valve springs that are recommended in the usual procedure - they weren't under tension.


Just rotate it a few revolutions manually and make sure nothing is binding. The ECU will figure out when Cyl 1 is on the compression stroke based on the crankshaft tone ring - and the fifth finger on the passenger side Phaser when you crank her up.

Good Luck.

crewcabf150

It was out of gas. The tank showed 1/8 but when we changed the tank pump something must of hit the sensor and now it's off.

The locks in place. Took wires of all four sensors, cam position and the solenoids. Seems to run without the rattle and roll.

However, couldn't drive it cause I was jammed in by one of the apartment tenants cars. Will be out to 29 Palms again on Monday and try.....

diver64

No luck. Got the truck put back together and dosnt run. Got a sharp rap from #7. I turned it off and now wont crank at all. I double checked all the timing chain marks before putting the front cover on, made sure the sharpie marks I put on the cam lobes lined up were lined up before putting the covers on. Im stumped

vintageman

I'm concerned about the sharp rap from #7, did you rotate the engine by hand a few full revolutions to verify no valve to piston contact before closing her up? Also, how do you know the rap came from #7? If everything lined up correctly, there should have been no issues. Can you rotate the crank by hand with a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt?

shawn.m

Well after reading all the threads I used this thread and the expert write one.
The valve cover on the passenger side sucked. I ended up unbolting the ac dryer and moving it up a little bit to get the cover up. Not enough to remove it but at least to raise it to remove the phaser
I had the driver side guide broken in two spots. A small piece broke off and went down into the oil pan. Couldn't find it, so figure it's in the bottom of oil pan.

I used a big vise grip to hold the camshaft while torquing it.
Wiggled the valve covers back down to seat them back down. Will have to see if I get any leaks. If I do will go buy new valve covers gaskets.

Once I got front all together figured, i would stop before finishing anything more and do the spark plugs.

Broke two off in the head. Probably didn't leave them long to soak. Maybe. They were the most coroded of all.
I used the tool to get them out. One of them left the center electrode in. That one was not that bad. Once I found the thread to tap down the center

The other one broke the electrode off half way flush with top. Now I am really screwed. Can't get put a tap in their with wire sticking out, so tapped the porcelain with a center punch a couple times. Then blew it out with air. Did this several times. Finally got it cleared out enough. Then tapped the porcelain down even more THROUGH the strap.
Finally got a tap in their and was able to tap it and then pull it out. Going to go buy or borrow a inspection camera to make sure all pieces found.

Then put it all back together hopefully by next weekend. Can't wait to see how it runs with new plugs, timing chain, phasers and guides.

crewcabf150

The saga continues....

Parking lot is clear. Able to get out in the street. No rattle/roll, no dieseling, no engine noise now with the cam locks.

Power.
It's choking, runs awfully, 20% power....

Codes,

I understand the p0010, p0020 codes cause I have the cam solenoid unplugged.
I have a p0171 code, a lean condition... Vacuum hose leak?

I have a persistent p0201 code, a #1 faulty injector. Replaced with a new injector and the same code. Changed with the #3 injector but the code stayed on #1. Checked connector and the wire..

P0301 code, miss in #1....

Going on 10 months now.

Any gurus in SoCal?

It's in 29 palms....

coolride

I read all of these posts here, and I feel your pain.
And I am so glad I traded my truck for something that doesn't have a 5.4 in it!
That's the secret for fixing these 3v 5.4's , get rid of them and buy something good!

coolride

If anyone is interested, I have a SCT X4 scanner. I bought it new in April this year from MPT. Its for 2004-2008 F150 w/5.4. I paid $399 for it, hooked it to my truck 3 times, once to load one custom program, a second time to load the more aggressive custom tune, and the third time to load the stock program because I was trading it. Issue is the program I loaded the last time was not the trucks program, I selected the wrong one. Now its locked. And I traded the truck. A costly mistake on my part. I can sell it as is, pretty much brand new in box, or if someone wants it I can send it to SCT and get it unlocked and sell it that way. If anyone is interested shoot me an offer on PM.
The cam locks are the way to go, and the truck ran great with the custom tunes after the fct, no engine lights, great power. MPG was better than when it was running sick, was getting 12 before. 14-15 after.

Fordjunkync

Just a little 5.4 inspiration lol, Im in at 15,500 miles so far.
Made a few trips with it, Virginia a couple times, South Carolina a couple times, south Georgia, Tennessee this weekend.

shawn.m

Got it all back together
Timing is fantastic and motor is quiet. Power is pretty good as motor relearn a everything,

However, getting a short quick rattle at start up,even with new motorcraft oil filter and 6 quarts of 5w20.

Best part is that the truck no longer skips or shudders between 1000 and 1600 rpm. It will lug down in 5th gear. The difference in driving experience is unbelievable !

The next test will be in three weeks when I have a trip planned with my travel trailer.