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Check your oil pressure.
May help you & Phasedout also. CLICK LINK
I think I am in the same boat (truck) as Phasedout
oil pressure drops to just above ten (with cheap aftermarket gauge) after long warmup. It also runs fine when VCTs are not connected. I will try OEM VCT.s if you think that will solve....
I would agree, but will the OEM valve perform the same with 10 PSI OIL? 5W-20 at 192F coolant temp, 500 RPM idle stumbling. Rev it to higher pressure, she smooths out like all other before describe. Numerous test drives with same condition, but VCT disconnected, she doesn't buck at 10 PSI.
So going to switch to 5W-30 to get hot oil pressure up and repeat test drives.
As much as I'd like it to be the VCT valves, 10 min job, I fear the pump is my issue, 2 day job.
You're quicker than me, pulling the timing cover is easy, but all the incidental work really adds up. I want a new truck
Heres some more info Ive collected up for myself.
Maybe some others my find it useful.
These parts replaces:
FORD MOTORCRAFT/MAHLE # 1L3Z6L266AA (RIGHT SIDE)(plastic)
FORD MOTORCRAFT/MAHLE # XL1Z6L266AA (LEFT SIDE) (plastic)
The new Motorcraft I bought vs the OEM 1 I pulled off my 2009. (I believe (not sure) the color difference is from engine heat)
The IRON tensioners "I think" (not sure) have the anti clasping mechanism. (Im looking into these more).
FORD MOTORCRAFT # F6LZ6L266DA (RIGHT SIDE)(IRON)
FORD MOTORCRAFT # F6LZ6L266CA (LEFT SIDE) (IRON)
I believe (not sure) the Cloyes Iron tensoners are the same except for the set below comes with the plates.
.
@Fordjunkync, were you able to find out more about the OEM iron tensioners? From what I have been able to find, the iron tensioners were used up to '99 for F150's. They may have been used a little longer than that but a couple of online parts sites have plastic tensioners listed for 2000. The odd thing is that the parts sites only list the right side as plastic, left is still cast iron...weird.
The part numbers I found were F6AZ-6L266-CA (LH) and F6AZ-6L266-DA (RH). These are also the part numbers some of the mustang guys have been using for their 3v's.
Hopefully this will help someone else in the future.
Just finished with Livernois lockout kit and all timing components. A big shout out to Livernois motorsports and Freedom racing and tool. With only 88000 miles my truck runs and sounds better than new. Combined with my Gryphon tuner, this is absolutely the only way to go. Freedom racing and tool had the perfect timing kit (ford and cloyes parts for less than $300).
Just finished with Livernois lockout kit and all timing components. A big shout out to Livernois motorsports and Freedom racing and tool. With only 88000 miles my truck runs and sounds better than new. Combined with my Gryphon tuner, this is absolutely the only way to go. Freedom racing and tool had the perfect timing kit (ford and cloyes parts for less than $300).
Did you see the ones on ebay for $40.00?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Set-of-CNC-Billet-Aluminum-Ford-4-6-5-4L-3-Valve-Cam-Phaser-Lockouts-/301718777010?hash=item463fd72cb2&vxp=mtr
@Fordjunkync, were you able to find out more about the OEM iron tensioners? From what I have been able to find, the iron tensioners were used up to '99 for F150's. They may have been used a little longer than that but a couple of online parts sites have plastic tensioners listed for 2000. The odd thing is that the parts sites only list the right side as plastic, left is still cast iron...weird.
The part numbers I found were F6AZ-6L266-CA (LH) and F6AZ-6L266-DA (RH). These are also the part numbers some of the mustang guys have been using for their 3v's.
Hopefully this will help someone else in the future.
Sorry but my attention has detoured & Im trying to reduce my online activities.
Trying to get caught up on some side work that I need to get out of my way so I can get my race car ready for the fall LoL.
I was looking for info with pics on the iron oem part but thats where I stalled at in researching.
Stumbled upon this thread in google search. Helping a friend with an 06' F-150 with the 5.4L 3V. I have stripped the motor down with both valve covers and timing covers removed. Prior to dismantle knocking noise was heard and felt on front passenger side valve cover. Passenger side timing tensioner was leaking and timing chain had slack in it. Timing guides were not broken and tangs on phaser appear to be distorted. Timing cover has wear from passenger side chain rubbing on timing cover. My understanding is when timing tensioner is compromised the phasers may not get proper oil pressure.
Hardest part was getting passenger side valve cover off. Removed passenger side wheel well which made removing Trans dip stick and rear passenger valve cover bolts removal easy.
Currently the crank notch is at the correct 12 o'clock position and the cam lobes to cylinder 1 and 5 are in the proper orientation. Ford manual states to remove certain three cam followers from right and left side, which specific ones from piston 1,4,5,8, which can't recall without manual in front of me. The valve compression tool from OTC is $200 (OTC303-1039).
Then states to turn crank to the 6 o'clock position with the crank tool and remove the remaining cam followers by using this valve spring compressor.
I've got the special crank tool, which was like $70, but I may need the valve spring compression and two cam phaser locking tools also (OTC303-1046) which are $85 a piece. Summitracing also does not have them in stock but my parts guy can get me them same day ordered.
I have read in this post that several guys stated they did not need any of these tools to do this job. I understand that once I place the crank at 6 o'clock position the crank can no longer be turned clockwise when chains have been removed. I know to line left and right side single colored link to bottom of crank sprocket gear at 6 o'clock mark and the two single colored links go over the specific mark on the cam phasers. I understand the purpose of removing the followers to have cam in neutral state so it has no compression that could possible turn cams out of position.
I've seen a trick that these cam followers can be removed by using a screwdriver and placing a rag over cam journal in FordTechMakuloco YouTube video. Personally if I have to resort to this, I will place a piece of cardboard and rag to minimize a scratch possibly to the ultra hardened steel on the cam lobe. Also seen use a curved pry bar and to place on head to pop the cam follower back into position.
I contacted a local Ford dealer and spoke to a tech who stated that he himself has seen techs not even remove some followers, use vice grips behind phaser on cam not near the lobes and place them in a certain position against head so the cam will not move and just line up the marks on chain to sprockets.
Also watched this video and FordTechMakuloco had cam caps removed.
Do I need to purchase the valve spring compression tool in order to remove the cam followers and cam locks?
Can I get away with just positioning crank at 6 oclock with crank tool and lock the cams in place with vice grips behind the phaser up against the head with followers in place?
Stumbled upon this thread in google search. Helping a friend with an 06' F-150 with the 5.4L 3V. I have stripped the motor down with both valve covers and timing covers removed. Prior to dismantle knocking noise was heard and felt on front passenger side valve cover. Passenger side timing tensioner was leaking and timing chain had slack in it. Timing guides were not broken and tangs on phaser appear to be distorted. Timing cover has wear from passenger side chain rubbing on timing cover. My understanding is when timing tensioner is compromised the phasers may not get proper oil pressure.
Hardest part was getting passenger side valve cover off. Removed passenger side wheel well which made removing Trans dip stick and rear passenger valve cover bolts removal easy.
Currently the crank notch is at the correct 12 o'clock position and the cam lobes to cylinder 1 and 5 are in the proper orientation. Ford manual states to remove certain three cam followers from right and left side, which specific ones from piston 1,4,5,8, which can't recall without manual in front of me. The valve compression tool from OTC is $200 (OTC303-1039).
Then states to turn crank to the 6 o'clock position with the crank tool and remove the remaining cam followers by using this valve spring compressor.
I've got the special crank tool, which was like $70, but I may need the valve spring compression and two cam phaser locking tools also (OTC303-1046) which are $85 a piece. Summitracing also does not have them in stock but my parts guy can get me them same day ordered.
I have read in this post that several guys stated they did not need any of these tools to do this job. I understand that once I place the crank at 6 o'clock position the crank can no longer be turned clockwise when chains have been removed. I know to line left and right side single colored link to bottom of crank sprocket gear at 6 o'clock mark and the two single colored links go over the specific mark on the cam phasers. I understand the purpose of removing the followers to have cam in neutral state so it has no compression that could possible turn cams out of position.
I've seen a trick that these cam followers can be removed by using a screwdriver and placing a rag over cam journal in FordTechMakuloco YouTube video. Personally if I have to resort to this, I will place a piece of cardboard and rag to minimize a scratch possibly to the ultra hardened steel on the cam lobe. Also seen use a curved pry bar and to place on head to pop the cam follower back into position.
I contacted a local Ford dealer and spoke to a tech who stated that he himself has seen techs not even remove some followers, use vice grips behind phaser on cam not near the lobes and place them in a certain position against head so the cam will not move and just line up the marks on chain to sprockets.
Also watched this video and FordTechMakuloco had cam caps removed.
Do I need to purchase the valve spring compression tool in order to remove the cam followers and cam locks?
Can I get away with just positioning crank at 6 oclock with crank tool and lock the cams in place with vice grips behind the phaser up against the head with followers in place?
I just did this job. I put the dot on the crank pulley at 6 o'clock, and held right behind the cam phaser with vice grips. I've seen threads where people have used a 2x4 block or something to wedge between the vice grips and the fender, etc.
It was much easier having someone hold the vice grips while you remove the chains. The cam shafts won't rotate much.
I just did this job. I put the dot on the crank pulley at 6 o'clock, and held right behind the cam phaser with vice grips. I've seen threads where people have used a 2x4 block or something to wedge between the vice grips and the fender, etc.
It was much easier having someone hold the vice grips while you remove the chains. The cam shafts won't rotate much.
Thanks. I have almost read all the pages and post to this thread. I saw the two by four post. So you didn't even touch the cam followers. Put at 6 o'clock and install phasers, timing guides, crank sprocket and chains. Double check orientation and timing. And pull grenade pins on tensioners and reassemble everything. Think reassembly will be easier than dismantle.
09-01-2015, 12:53 AM
