Reid Krabill

I am wanting to use iron tensioners I will probably use melling or Ford OEM. I am working on a 2005 F 150 with 5.4 3v. does anybody have long term experience with using the iron tensioners? I am worried about not having a gasket. should I make a gasket or use RTV or just bolt the metal tensioner right to the iron block? also I plan on installing a lock out kit. I have slack in my passenger side chain. I will have the timing cover off later tonight to get a better look at what's going on. the slack is on the top side of the chain which makes me concerned that the chain may have jumped one or two teeth. if it was simply a tensioner wouldnt the slack be on the lower part of the chain?

Brewskey

No it was not and 2010 still had issue with phasers , I know of a few for a fact !!!

Brewskey

I installed my lock outs a year and a half ago and have had zero issues and still runs great!! I had changed out my phases a couple of times prior just to have it mess up a few months later. If your chain was off by even one tooth I think you would know!! As far as the tensioners I have no idea 😳

Reid Krabill

Oh. I thought I read somewhere that there was an improved design.

Reid Krabill

I have p0012 code and diesel noise. Low rpm at hot idle. Truck only stalled when pulling the trailer up hill at a slow speed.(my driveway is on a hill and that's where it has stalled if I don't keep the rpms up.) without a load or a trailer the truck seems to run good it did always have a diesel noise. it's a 2005 XLT 4x 4 extended cab I paid 3600 dollars for it knowing it needed work. I feel that I got a very good deal I just want to make sure I fix this thing right. but I am concerned about the chain slack on the top side of the passenger side timing chain. could the phasor be that messed up or did it jump a tooth?

Millinex

Ok team, time to admit when I need help with something before I just go chucking parts at my truck.

2004 fx4 f150. 169k miles on it now. Bought it almost 2 months ago at 165k miles for a steal of a price at an estate auction. Ran great there when started, no issues. Drove it home, no issues. Few trips into town, nothing. So I then drove it into town one day, low idle, seemed to want to die going into parking lots, CEL, code, replaced drivers side VCT solenoid. Previous owner replaced his with a dorman, which of course was crap. Ran fine for a couple weeks.

Right before my trip, I laid into it heavy to pass someone, and when coming to a stop shortly after, rough idle at the light, nuetral + some gas, it went away. Threw the code for the driver side CPS, so I replaced it and was on my way. Drove 1400 miles to Oregon, no issues, ran beautifully. 18-21 MPG on a v8 5.4, I was satisfied. While I was there, it randomly one day had the CEL come on. this time, timing over advanced, bank 2. Noticed nothing though, no rough idle, no shake, nothing, just the light and code. Cleared it, no problems for being there 10 days and using it every day.

Drive home, about half way pulling into a gas station, RPMs plummet, she's not happy, wants to stall almost. Fill her up, and drove down the street to eat dinner. After sitting, and cooling off, she ran fine, back on the interstate. Same problem at the next stop. So I get her home, decide to swap out to some heavier oil, read about someone using 15w-40, so I chucked it in. Truck ran perfectly, for like 2 days. Same symptoms returned. Unplugged the passenger side VCT solenoid, ran fine for a day, symptoms returned. Threw code for passenger side CPS, swapped it out, ran perfectly last night- until 1 stop sign on the way home, rough idle started to come back at a stop sign, gave it gas, went away. Did not come back for the next 3 stops; however, like it would normally.

Tinkered with it tonight, unplugged both VCTs and will test tomorrow, also noticed the passenger side VCT is infact a dorman, and does infact have a broken connector so it doesn't clip onto the pigtail like it should.

Any ideas? I have another big trip to make in a month, and don't really want to throw several hundred $ at it on a whim just for the sake of replacing parts, when I'll just drive something else for awhile if I need. I ordered the passenger side ford OEM solenoid already. Would a weak connection from the clip being busted cause this? Maybe the dorman itself ? Seems strange that it's so "random feeling"

ElliotTheCarpenter

Mine was very similar when the vacuum hose at the rear of the intake came off. So how about checking your vacuum?

Phasedout

Since I plan to replace all followers and lash adjusters, seems logical that I don't need to complete the cyl 1 & 8 exhaust and cyl 4 & 5 intake follower removal before removing camshaft. As long as I mark across the cam shaft and caps, visegrip them, remove phasers, then 1/4 turn loosen the cap bolts in reverse of tightening pattern, then no need for spring compression tool also. Am I missing something.

Thanks folks

vintageman

That's how I did it. I replaced all of them, found 13 bad lash adjusters when I did. Put the harmonic balancer timing mark where it should be (think its the 1:00 position), check the cam lobes to make sure that they are pointing the right direction, if not, rotate the crank 360 degrees and check the cam lobes again. Mark the cam and caps in multiple places to make sure they go back in the same way. Pics of the harmonic balancer and cam lobe positions is in my album here on the site. Not hard, take your time.

Good luck
Tom

Reid Krabill

What kind of symptoms was your truck having? I'm in the middle of installing all new timing chains and phaser lockouts. The truck ran good at higher rpms but did have the diesel noise and one engine code for bank 1 over retarded. Do you think I also have faulty lash adjusters