1930ford

I'm new to the whole tune thing and was wondering if there is a certain tuner that i have to put these files on in order to put them on my truck. The newer fords are not just a plug and play off of a pc i dont think...

Quote Originally Posted by christopherstone View Post
OK so I have a friend who installed cam phaser limiters on his 04 F150 5.4.

It bucks now and will not accelerate, and has a very bad loss of power, so they called me to see if I could figure out the problem. Also, the idle is rough, but not super nasty..

So I found that the limiters limit the retard to 20* max camshaft retard.

So I opened up the tune and changed a few things and got it running. pretty smooth but but my time got cut short and I had to leave, but when I left it was running pretty smooth but had very little power above 3Kish RPM.

I figured maybe someone here could take a look at it and see if I missed something. All they want it for it to run smooth, have decent power, and idle smooth. Regular 87 octane, no racing or anything like that..

Enclosed are the stock tune and the modified tune. Thanks guys!

The Fool

I have read through about 50 pages of this thread and am hoping you guys can help. I have an '05 with about 115k miles. It had phasers replaced at a dealership around 80k. Then phasers, guides, tensioner, chains, etc at 112k. It was as quiet as these things get. Now it has a pretty loud knocking/tick that seems to be coming from under the passenger side valve cover, just behind the phaser. The first mechanic pulled the cover, said it still looked good, and suggested replacing the chains, phasers, etc. again... Then it went to a dealership where they replaced a broken guide. But, they couldn't figure out the knock. What am I missing? Is it really time for a new engine?

After leaving the dealership, it has a new symptom, pulling up to a light or into the driveway the idle drops real low and sometimes dies. Is this a separate issue or related to the knock?

Thanks for reading!

jspec

So melling m360 pump and iron tensioners? What are the part number for the tensioners? Where is a good place to get them?

bullwinkle89

My 2007 SCAB is ticking, but i can only hear it when im next to a wall or another car. I've done a lot of research on this and one of the permanent fixes seems to be switching to a high volume oil pumps such as the Ford Racing part # M-6600-F46. Should i try this before doing VCT Solenoids?

wrvond

Summit Racing has them. I'll post a link in the morning when I'm on the computer.

Millinex

Getting a CEL? Codes? Mine was doing similar, owner before me got rid of it in fear of engine going out, was the VCT solenoid and took $50 and 15 minutes to swap out.

ElliotTheCarpenter

Mine was blown tensioner gaskets. Passenger side chain was extremely slack. There was some damage to the plastic chain tensioner/guide on the passenger side along with ticking from both cam phasers, but no high volume/pressure oil pump or even a titanium chain guide would have fixed the problem. In fact the oil pump on these trucks is perfectly adequate.

Nobody has figured out an actual once and for all fix for this problem. Very qualified people engineered this engine, and nobody has really figured out how to build it better, after the fact. On the up side, once you fix your truck you won't fear doing it again should a problem arise

wrvond

Melling part numbers are BT402 for the left and BT403 for the right. Summit Racing has them for $55.00 each and free shipping.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-bt402
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-bt403


If you are going to replace your oil pump, I'd recommend going with the Ford Racing oil pump. It is high pressure and high volume. Melling is high pressure only. The Ford part number is M-6600-F46.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6600-f46

WIF-150

Millinex, was yours throwing codes, or did you just change them to upgrade?

The Fool

Mine wasn't throwing any codes at all the last time it was hooked up to a scanner, but that was before the low idle/ dying thing started. The CEL did come on for a moment when it died on the highway, but only stayed on until restart.

The dealership said the solenoids were fine. He also said the knock/tick sounds like the 3k RPM variety VS the 6k dieseling variety the 5.4 usually has??

He thought it might be piston slap, so I put 10-40w in and that made NO difference in the sound. The volume and severity of the knock fluctuates driving around town and doesn't seem to correlate to driving speed. Any ideas? Thanks guys!