Michael Johanson

The difference is really very little but enough that according to Ford and their tech side, that they would and up destroying the top end if used.
The actual difference is in the 04, the primer at top has a slight camfer, while the 05-10 has a distinct groove.
I had a picture sitting on my desktop I would have provided, but I deleted it recently on a clean up. I imagine that someone else may be able to show what I mean.


I know it does not sound like much, and I questioned it myself, as I also would prefer to save my cash.
Looking back at it, the manufacturing date has everything to do with this.
I would suggest that as soon as yours is torn down, compare one of the old adjusters to your new ones.


Another thing you can do is actually call Freedom Racing in Lamoni Iowa. As they dealt with me, they will have no problem recalling the mistake they made when I walked out the door being given the incorrect ones. ( yes, the situation was that memorable ) I imagine they could better explain why the new ones would not work in place of the ones used in only the 04's.


Mike

wtmjr43

Should I replace the VCT housing gaskets why I have the front cover off?

Also I removed the chains guides and tensioners before I turned the crank to the correct position.

I have read in other posts that you can turn the crank after the chains have been removed and ones that say you can't. I'm replacing all timing components and phasers. The cams turned as well when I removed the tension from the chains.

The dot on the bottom gear is about 1/4 turn past where it needs to be. Is it safe to turn the crank counter clockwise to get it to the correct position?
If not what should I do about getting the crank to the right spot?

Sorry for the multiple post but still not sure after going through the threads multiple times.

Thanks for any help and advice I just got my timing kit today so I'm hoping to get it back together this weekend.

vintageman

Did you bother to look at the other thread that you posted this question it, I answered this question yesterday.

wtmjr43

Yes, I saw it thanks for your reply was just wanting a little more clarification as far as turning the crank counterclockwise.

Thanks again.

izzy_mustang

So tore my 5.4 3v down (2004 F150 Lariat, New Body Style) because I got an over retard on bank 2. When I opened it up, I found BOTH timing chain guides in pieces. So I ordered new Ford parts, and the timing chain 5L3Z-6268-A, seems to be too long. But, keep in mind, this is on bank 2, where I got the original error. When I got the timing chain cover, and valve covers off, the chain was lose on the bottom, as this new chain seems to be, and putting the tensioner arm on isn't gonna tighten up the bottom...Or, will the tensioner arm and tensioner tighten it properly?

I'm lost!

izzy

izzy_mustang

Update: I went by the guide set forth at the beginning of this thread, and I can't thank you enough for posting it!

The problem was with my crank position. I had the key turned to the 6 position. This made aligning the chains difficult, as I should have placed it at the 11 position (just for ease). As long as your timing marks line up, you can't mess this up. With the position that my crank cog was in, the slack in the chain, was at the bottom of the LH cam phaser. So I had to have a buddy of mine help me adjust and hold the chain tight at the bottom on the cog, and then tight along the timing chain guide arm, until I installed the timing chain tensioner arm, which kept the chain in place. From now on, I'll make sure they key way is at the 11 position.

buening

I went through quite a few pages and didn't see this anywhere, but my 05 5.4L only ticks when warm. When I start the engine cold it doesn't tick, but as it warms up the tick gets louder. Its more prominent on the passenger side it seems. Its difficult to nail down the exact location but seems to be more towards the front of the engine on the passenger side.

Originally it did it even when cold so I replaced the exhaust manifold and gasket (it definitely had a leak, as one of the flat surfaces on the manifold was eroded). That eliminated the tick when cold but now its only ticking when warm. Thinking the manifold sprung a leak again, I went though the madness of pulling the manifold again and the gaskets looked good with no silt tracings indicating a leak. I put new gaskets and reinstalled the manifold. The ticking sound is pretty loud and sounds like a diesel engine. Is there any way to verify its coming from the phasers or chain tensioners?

Edit: After more research it sounds like the VCT Solenoid may be a good first step. Hopefully the passenger side is bad and that fixes it (will do both sides to be safe), but if not the phasers and tensioners may be up next.

WiseBass

I've been following this thread for over a year and now I really need y'all!

Background: I have an 04 F150 Lariat 4x4 Screw, w/ 5.4L and 138K. Engine started making noise last May and I replaced the timing set (no broken guide pieces), lash adjusters and several followers. The truck ran well, but never like new. Then a short time later low idle (thought it may be cats), knocking after warm up (assume the low oil pressure problem) and throwing a list of codes...P0010, P0020, P0022, P0171 & P0345. General FUBAR!

To my Point: I pulled the VCT's and tested them with a 9V battery, both seemed to work fine, but left/drivers side VCT screen had bits of magnetic metal in it. I had the oil tested and only trace amounts (15 ppm) of metal were in the oil, considered
below normal.

How can I have metal get caught in the head, but have no metal in the oil?

I plan to get a diagnostic scan done on the truck to make sure the system is okay before I drop a ton of cash on worst case scenario, a new motor, but would like to get by with less if possible.

Any help would be very appreciated!!!

docsprague

I also been following this thread since my truck had 68k about 4 years ago. Now has 108k and time for work. A couple of questions. How can a person tell if the lash adjusters are bad by looking at the top end with he valve cover off? Engine sounds fine above 2k RPM so I guessing they are fine but I like to be sure.

Second question to anyone using Livernois lockouts, did you replace the VCT solenoids? Or are the old style fine (2004) since your not worried about the phasers anymore? For that matter can you use old phaser or do you need to put the lockouts in newer phasers?

Warden888

I just read through the first 15 pages of this post. Great stuff.


My engine lacks some power and is making the "Diesel" noises. I took it to a local mechanic and they suggested "Replace the engine". WHAT??? ($8,500).


That just didn't seem right and I'm glad to read this thread.


I'm into Motorcycle builds and am comfortable rebuilding bikes from the ground up. But I'm "deer in headlights" when it comes to working on this big beast. While I'm comfortable with a wrench, I have no idea what I'm getting into on the solutions I'm finding here.


I just called the local Ford Dealership to get my truck in for a second opinion. You've given me a ton of "discussion points" to start with. The conversation went very well and the service manager was acknowledging everything I was describing and asking to have them look at (Cam Phasers, Timing Chain Slap, and Significant Engine Noise). I am aware that I have a broken manifold bolt too, which he said they'd look at.


Dealerships scare the hell out of me (regarding their wrench rates). But I'm hoping I can get my truck (153K Miles) back to good and running for another 100K. I use it to pull an enclosed trailer (containing motorcycles) and notices the recent lack of power and poor mileage (around 10mpg pulling the trailer and 14.6 normal highway). Just knew something was off a bit.


I'm hopeful the repair can be done and fix my truck. I have a personal budget of around $3000 to get it back to good. Beyond that, I have to consider trying it myself or abandoning the vehicle.


Thanks for all the input and effort on this thread!
Jim