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The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound

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Old 03-03-2015, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by s_vares
ROCK AUTO

Timing Chain Set
Part # 90391SB ($189.00 both chains, tesioners, guides, lower sprocket) Made by Cloves... Very nice quality

Front Crank Seal
Part # TCS46117 ($5.36) Fel-Pro

Cam Phasers
Part # 917250 ($139.19 each so X2) Comes with new bolt

$474.36 total.... Dont forget about the 5% off rock auto too

You wont see the crank seal in this guide, but its in the front engine cover!

Also- DONT FORGET TO PUT ENGINE TO TDC

Here is a picture of bolt locations on front cover


This calls for about 10 shop hours so TAKE YOUR TIME
and I reccomend blue loctite on all bolts inside timing cover except phaser
So I have a question and I'm basically just making sure since I'm about to do this job myself. Is this literally all the parts that are needed!? Also how is yours holding up? did you have to go back and replace anything else? I'm not sure how much I trust rock auto.
Old 03-03-2015, 02:33 PM
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Does it matter if engine is at TDC on #1? All the cam gears should only go on one way.

P.S. Use thicker oil if you want more oil pressure.
Old 03-04-2015, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Thornton2530
So I have a question and I'm basically just making sure since I'm about to do this job myself. Is this literally all the parts that are needed!? Also how is yours holding up? did you have to go back and replace anything else? I'm not sure how much I trust rock auto.
yes, with the exception of the tone ring if you need one. All my rock auto stuff has held up great (all timing components, window motor, an actual motor, exhaust manifolds, fpdm and more)
Old 03-04-2015, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Micahdogg
Does it matter if engine is at TDC on #1? All the cam gears should only go on one way. P.S. Use thicker oil if you want more oil pressure.
no it doesn't, I did mine without it and it worked fine, just make sure that the cams don't spin on you at all. Also, using thicker oil in the 5.4 3v is detrimental as the journals are too small to accept proper oil of the right weight, let alone thicker oil.
Old 03-04-2015, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 2002VertGt
Also, using thicker oil in the 5.4 3v is detrimental as the journals are too small to accept proper oil of the right weight, let alone thicker oil.
Most Fords from 2001 specify 5W20 because Ford found out that it made a 0.6% difference to the CAFE ratings (they even sent a bulletin to employees on the discovery). That decision wasn't based on journal sizes - which I assume you are talking about cam journals because I haven't heard of a lack of oiling issue on the crank side. These motors have a very real issue of low oil pressure at idle though, which 5W30 would help oil the cams in those conditions. Just my two cents.
Old 03-04-2015, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 2002VertGt
yes, with the exception of the tone ring if you need one. All my rock auto stuff has held up great (all timing components, window motor, an actual motor, exhaust manifolds, fpdm and more)
What about the lockout kit from livernois? Mine is making a little noise but I was basically just going to do preventative maint. If anything is bad I was going to go ahead and replace and do the lockout kit as well. Any thoughts or advice on this? My truck has had a new engine and has about 65k on it now.
Old 03-04-2015, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by xpander343
Back in the summer I picked up an 07 f150 with the hot idle rough running fairly cheap. I was figuring it probably needed tensioners and guides. I'd pulled both valve covers to check to see if the cam phasers looked messed up and to take the solenoids out to clean. I also pulled a cam cap and found I had some large nasty grooves in both the cam and in the cam cap. I ran 15w40 for 3 months or so after this and generally it was pretty good. I then ended up picking up a used engine as it seemed like I'd be into the similar costs by the time I bought cams, heads plus timing sets. So something to consider before you end up spending a fortune on timing sets and still have it run crappy. When I pulled my oil pan on my old motor the pickup was fairly plugged with sludge as well, and one of the tensioners was blown out as well. Before I owned my truck it was a fleet truck for a highway maintence company so it had a ton of idling hours on it and had quite a bit of sludge in the engine.

I def want to try and pull my valve covers to check the cam & cam caps, right now my hot oil pressure is right at 25psi .. Are the valve cover gaskets re-usable? how bad was you cam scored?
Old 03-04-2015, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by nicecj7
I def want to try and pull my valve covers to check the cam & cam caps, right now my hot oil pressure is right at 25psi .. Are the valve cover gaskets re-usable? how bad was you cam scored?
yes valve cover gaskets are reusable.
Old 03-04-2015, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Micahdogg
Most Fords from 2001 specify 5W20 because Ford found out that it made a 0.6% difference to the CAFE ratings (they even sent a bulletin to employees on the discovery). That decision wasn't based on journal sizes - which I assume you are talking about cam journals because I haven't heard of a lack of oiling issue on the crank side. These motors have a very real issue of low oil pressure at idle though, which 5W30 would help oil the cams in those conditions. Just my two cents.
the lack of oil pressure to the heads is caused by a crappy pump and crap gunking up the journals.
Old 03-05-2015, 01:51 PM
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Hello Everyone,

Wow, what an excellent thread. First time poster here so figured I would just jump in. Unfortunately, I was hoping it would be a different thread other then this one.

I'm running into the same issue with my 2006 5.4 as well and have started a bit of work on it so far. Started bucking on me a few months ago and I thought for sure it was something to do with the transmission. My dad (who runs a body shop) said no, that is not the tranny. We ended up changing the spark plugs, didn't help. Went and got my codes read and the only one that came up orginally was the knock sensor. Changed that, no luck. Finally started getting the normal cam position, misfire...etc. codes. Finally just got to the point I could not drive it as it just kept bucking, misfiring all that fun stuff.

So far, we have changed out the VCT solenoids, cam position sensors, cam phasers. Did make the truck sound much better after the phasers where changed, but after we let the truck get warm, we were disappointed to hear the knock (or chain slap) back. Come to find out from reading this thread that it's probably the chain slapping inside. While we did the phasers, we didn't think of changing everything else while we were in there, wish we would have seen this thread before.

We are going to tear into it again the next couple of weeks. So, being we have changed the phasers, will we need to remove them again? I saw some other people posting that if you take them off, you need or should get new bolts again, is that correct? I'm not the best when it comes to the mechanic work, luckily my dad is pretty good with all this stuff. Also, we are going to get the chains, tensioners, all the normal stuff that everyone listed. Spoke with Ford here in Wichita about an oil pump and they said they have rarely sold any. I think while we are in there, we might as well get a new one in? I see people talk about the lashers quite a bit, is this something that should really be done, or I guess I'm not quite sure what they are or if we should go ahead and replace these or not?

Sorry for the long post, but just wanted to get out there what I have so far and see what you guys thought.

Thanks for the help!


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