vintageman

You will not need the valve spring tool, just get a good set of vice grips, and lock down at the end of the cam behind where the phaser connects and not on a lobe. put the cam caps on and tighten from center cap outwards. A little at a time. Line up the cam marks that you put on and hold with the vice grips until the caps are torqued down. If the 2 colored links are lined up on the phaser and the phaser doesn't line up with the cam right, slightly turn the cam with the vice grips until the phaser slides in place. Let us know how its going and any other questions.
Tom

ttjkn5

I will soak the new lash adjusters in mobil one then insert into head, place rocker on them then the cam and caps and tighten in the sequence shown in the manual. Is thi correct.

vintageman

Yes, soak them in oil, while submerged in the oil, I bled them as well to ensure that there was no air in them. Just push the plunger a few times and you will notice that they get more pressure, then install them. I believe that my album has the pics of the correct cam lobe position when the timing marks are lined up correctly. After those are all lined up, mark the cams, remove them, change out the lash adjusters and put back together. Should be a minimum turn of the cam with the vice grips to get the phasers to line up correctly with the colored marks on the chains. Make sure the bottom colored link lines up correctly on the lower (crank) gear and that you put the reluctor gear back on with the teeth facing out toward front of truck. When reinstalling your VCT solenoids, spray a little throttle body cleaner on them to loosen any crap up that may have built up inside and then dip the solenoids in oil then reinstall them.

ttjkn5

Thanks for the reply, went back together better than i would have expected, turns over well by hand. Verified the marks all lined up before I began turning over. The right side cam marks that I made did not line up too well about 3/8 inch off but I believe that is related to the phaser pin missing or broke and the fact that I turned the crack neumerous times prior to marking the cam.

I was thinking there was more tension on the cam but it bolted up fairly easy. Had to brace the crack when turning the phasers the extra 90 degrees.

Will spend next couple of days putting parts back together. I was thinking of poring a quart of mobile one on everything on each side just before I bolt up the valve covers. I like the idea of having the starter turn over engine a few times before I start it but not sure which plug to unplug so engine does not start.

lewissa81

You can turn the injectors off by holding the gas pedal down all the way while turning the motor over. Do this, for about 10 seconds, five times in a row. This will build up oil pressure and push oil through the engine, including those fancy new parts you just installed. I recommend doing this after oil changes also.
Good to hear you've got the truck coming along well. I've got my fingers crossed for you.

vintageman

X2 on gas pedal to the floor while cranking to build oil pressure.
Good luck


Tom

2002VertGt

x3. It's how ha do it

ttjkn5

Well it was a job 15 hours to take apart 13 hours to put back together I hour to do the repair work. Fired right up and sounds good.


Final findings 1 Left chain tensioner was very weak could press all way in by hand seals were ok on both. Right cam phaser has something broke inside. Only found this out while turning engine over when had the covers exposed. Originally thought is was pin that was broke or sheared but found it on floor when cleaning up so it was something internal. When moving the sprocket with the crank bolt the cam did not move for about a 1/4 turn maybe a little less.


Things that others may find useful.


Power Steering pump was a bitch to get off recommend disconnecting the pressure line while still on truck. Take Oil filter off for better access. I had 4 hours in the removal and 3 hours putting this back on.


Air Conditionings system- disconnect and get out of vehicle wasted a couple of hours fooling around with this prior to removal.


I would remove cams and plastic gauge them both before reassembly. I think I have some wear here and probably should have replaced them.


Special tools- puller for harmonic balancer and fan clutch dis-assembly tools. Get good ratching box end wrenches. 8 and 10 mm mostly will need sockets 32 and 22 and 16, 18 mm as well 7 8 10 11 12 13 15


The timing was so easy my wife good have done it, so without this site I would not have tempted this but with the quotes to repair $1600 labor from ford just for top end phaser, my mechanic 20 hours time estimate at $120 per hour. parts ran about $1400 including the $200 spark plugs I replaced. Screaching noise is good to hear when removing, had to use a long breaker bar to get broke free.


thanks again for all your help


me just another ford guy
the engineer who came up with the VCT thing must have been smoking dope. I am not impressed.


1986 F250 4x4 Lariat Diesel 250K
1989 Ranger 4x4 150K
1997 F150 4x4 XLT 160K
1998 F250 4x4 250K
1999 Expedition Eddie Bauer 180K
2000 Explorer 150K
2005 F150 4x4 200K The one causing all the trouble


After this task I think I am going to sell the truck.

2002VertGt

For the power steering pump, just remove the oil filter, remove the top 2 bolts, then take a 10mm ratcheting wrench (the slimmer the better) and start ratcheting. 20 min top you are done. Just pull it down a little after ever 10-15 turns of the wrench.

kingbenjamin

I followed this thread and got the whole job done in about 20 hours of work. I'm not a mechanic, so I feel like that was a pretty good time for me.


When I had it apart, I couldn't figure out how to remove the lash adjusters without removing the cam. The Haynes had me spooked about dropping my valve into the head, and I needed the truck, so I just replaced the one bad roller/rocker and put everything back together.


Now after driving the truck for about 250 miles, the engine started shaking and idling really rough like others have described. I think I need to pull the valve cover off and finish the job, replacing at least the one lash adjuster and probably all of them. But I'm still nervous about taking the cam off - is there any way to replace the lash adjusters without removing the cam? And after having done the rest of the job, is this something I should be worried about?


If anyone can give any insight tonight, I'd really appreciate it, I'm planning on tearing into it tomorrow during my day off . . .