The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
#1621
Senior Member
I have an '06 fx 4 with 5.4 and the symptoms are: Noise on cold start up that goes away quickly. But then when the engine is full hot all heck breaks loose. With the windows down cruising in the neighborhood at slow speeds and very little throttle she rattles and knocks like crazy. I can replicate the noise in the driveway by holding the throttle at minimal opening but when you mash it either in gear on road or in neutral the noise goes away. I do notice also a surge up and down as if timing is being altered back and forth while driving in traffic say between 30 and 50. My plan is to do the fix of all the parts related to chain and tensioners etc. recommended by SVares. Anymore input will be greatly appreciated. BTW my truck has 167K miles but I have had it since 135K.
Thanks
Thanks
#1622
Senior Member
Cats
Could the phaser problem have plugged up one of my cats? Had the phasers done but still doesnt have the power it should have and has a lag in accelleration, also has a code for plugged cat (bank one) and for cop #4
#1623
Ford Enthusiast
No, with a code for cop 4 (which is rear on bank 1) bad I would say it was dumping fuel into your cat and burnt it up.
#1624
This is all great information, and has made me more confident in my decision to buy a complete new engine. I have 164,000 on it and it sounds really bad, like REALLY BAD. It has since about 45,000. I have always just let it go and figured I would deal with it when it blew up, and it hasn't blown up! It has however started running like crap and popping a bunch of codes. I replaced the plugs {original 160,000 miles is that a record?} and I'm not doing another thing on this engine. It's getting yanked and replaced, period. The truck is in overall great condition and well worth doing this. This is just my .02 I'm throwing out there.
#1625
trouble following timing chain/tensioner job
i just finished replacing timinig chain, tensioner, guides, and phasers. After it was all together, i started it and it seemed to run well. It still had diesel tick but ran ok for about 5 miles. As i came to a slow down/stop, the engine rumbled a bit and wanted to stall. the check engine light came on. codes P0012, poo22, p0340, p0344, p0345, po349, and several other came on all dealing with cam position 1/2.
I reset the CEL and disconnect the VCT solenoid connection and the engine ran better without any CEL for some time but seem low on power.
I'm failry certain the sprocket, phasers and tension are on right. What else can it be or do I have to into it again.
thanks
chris
I reset the CEL and disconnect the VCT solenoid connection and the engine ran better without any CEL for some time but seem low on power.
I'm failry certain the sprocket, phasers and tension are on right. What else can it be or do I have to into it again.
thanks
chris
#1626
Senior Member
i just finished replacing timinig chain, tensioner, guides, and phasers. After it was all together, i started it and it seemed to run well. It still had diesel tick but ran ok for about 5 miles. As i came to a slow down/stop, the engine rumbled a bit and wanted to stall. the check engine light came on. codes P0012, poo22, p0340, p0344, p0345, po349, and several other came on all dealing with cam position 1/2.
I reset the CEL and disconnect the VCT solenoid connection and the engine ran better without any CEL for some time but seem low on power.
I'm failry certain the sprocket, phasers and tension are on right. What else can it be or do I have to into it again.
thanks
chris
I reset the CEL and disconnect the VCT solenoid connection and the engine ran better without any CEL for some time but seem low on power.
I'm failry certain the sprocket, phasers and tension are on right. What else can it be or do I have to into it again.
thanks
chris
#1627
no, did not replace them. Thinking of replacing them. just want to put feelers out for if anything could cause my symptons
Last edited by 1specman; 09-11-2014 at 06:07 PM.
#1628
Senior Member
Sounds like the VCT solenoids to me as well. I cant remember if you have to pull the VC to get to them on your year or if you can just take them out with the VC in place. If you can take them out without taking the VCs off, I would give them a good cleaning, dip them in clean oil and give them another try. If they are the old style then I would replace them instead. Make sure that you check the screens out to make sure that are not clogged up or missing. Im just a try to clean them before I spend the money on something that may not be the issue.
Good luck
Tom
Good luck
Tom
#1629
i will do that vintageman. just a note though. i removed my vct soleniods with 2 that i had from a 2008 engine that had similar problems, and it did not help, same symptons. the solenoids are easy to exchange, and i already have 2 on order.
something tell me i must of did something wrong on my chain/phaser assembly. the engine wasn't running that bad before i did the "repairs"
it also seems the ticking was worse with the new components.
something tell me i must of did something wrong on my chain/phaser assembly. the engine wasn't running that bad before i did the "repairs"
it also seems the ticking was worse with the new components.
#1630
Senior Member
did you use oem parts? I looked around at all the aftermarket parts and did a lot of reading, found that a lot of the individuals that are having to re-do this job used the aftermarket, I went with the oem. Got the timining kit with phasers and reluctor ring on ebay as well as the lash adjusters and followers. All less than $800 and so far, so good. When I went to put mine back together, both phaser timing links were off by 1 link, I pulled the phaser off one at a time, relined the links up with the marks on the phasers and used vice grips to slightly turn the cams until the phasers slide into place. When I got the p0012 error, I used a pocket scanner to erase the codes so that i was sure they had not been stored in memory and I haven't gotten any errors since and its been over 500 miles and the truck runs great. If you are clearing the codes by disconnecting the battery, ensure that you turn you headlights on for about 10 minutes to drain any residule current that may be held in the system. Then reconnect and see if the codes come back. Good luck and keep us posted.
Tom
Tom