lowspeedchase

That's what I'm wondering. Anyone know if this would cause low oil pressure at startup and then build up? Anyone run into similar issues after new tensioners and have it be something else?

Primo

How do you know you have low oil pressure at start up? Did the mechanic just tell you this, or did he put a gauge on it? Your oil pressure will always be lower for a few seconds until the rpms on the pump get going. The two bad tensioners I had failed internally (not the block seal) and would weaken and slowly collapse after sitting for awhile. When the block seal goes you will have real problems over time as the chain is running looser than it should at all times. It really sounds to me like you got a bad new tensioner put on. (I put a new one on that only lasted a month, went back in and put oem tensioner back into it)

lowspeedchase

Thanks for the input primo and yes he put a Guage on it after it sat over night. I explained nicely today that I wasn't convinced it wasn't a bad tensioner and said I'd like to open it up and replace them or one. When it's opened up will we be able to see pretty obviously if one is collapsed after sitting Over night?

Rugger72

3 week lead time on a reman from powertrain products. Jasper is a little out of my price range. Any other ideas for remanufactured engine? I just don't trust buying used.

AnRman65

Subscribed since my truck has gone back to the dealer for re-repair after only 500 miles. Chevy dealer where I bought the truck paid for the 1st repair.

Primo

You should be able to tell. It is most likely just one. Chain will be slack. You can pull up on the guide and see the plunger expand out, but will quickly push back in when you release it (best way I can describe) A good tensioner should be very difficult to "push in" by hand.

shelteredraptor

This is all great information, and has made me more confident in my decision to buy a complete new engine. I have 164,000 on it and it sounds really bad, like REALLY BAD. It has since about 45,000. I have always just let it go and figured I would deal with it when it blew up, and it hasn't blown up! It has however started running like crap and popping a bunch of codes. I replaced the plugs {original 160,000 miles is that a record?} and I'm not doing another thing on this engine. It's getting yanked and replaced, period. The truck is in overall great condition and well worth doing this. This is just my .02 I'm throwing out there.

00tec

So after replacing guides, chains, phasers, solenoids, tone ring, and oil pump, my truck is apart for the 4th time. Figured out my chirping down low, the chain was wearing odd on the crank gear.

The cause: Crank walk. It was walking out of the front of the block by 1/8-1/4 inch. The thrust washers on the rear of the main cap were TOAST. The front washer was falling out.
Crank and main cap are in good shape, got bearings on the shelf. It goes together for the (hopefully) final time this weekend.
I weighed a new bearing compared to the old bearing. 28.6g for the new one. 5.8g on the old.

I would urge the guys that have had repeat issues on these things to pull the pan and have a look. You can get the pan out (at least on the '06 4wd) without pulling the intake and lifting the motor. Just pull the 3 bolts out of the axle and drop the cross member.

Maybe this photo works, my phone isn't participating at the moment

vintageman

I am getting ready to change all the followers, lash adjusters, both phasers and all the timing components this weekend, looking at the power steering pump, if I remove the pulley, can I just remove the front 2 bolts on the pump and still remove the front timing cover? The only reason that I am asking is because everyone has said what a pain getting the 2 lower bolts off the pump. I also saw a video where someone had to cut the bolts off because the bolts were so seized. I have been spraying PB Blaster on the top 2 every so often for the last few days to help with removal but have not been able to spray the bottom bolts. Just looking for advice, is it easier just to remove the pulley and the front 2 bolts or just to take the pump completely off and leave the pulley on? Thank you for any advice, I will be posting pics, especially during the valve cover removal and external components.
Tom

lewissa81

You'll want to take the pump off. If you rent a puller/installer, it's really not bad. I wasted over an hour trying to get it off without removing the pulley, then picked up the puller, and had it off in about 20 min. Just be sure to get a new washer for the line you take off the pump. It only cost a buck at the dealership.