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The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound

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Old 07-24-2014, 02:41 AM
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Sounds like you have the same problem I did. When I opened up My engine I found that my Guides were broken and the teflon (or what ever is on top of the black plastic piece) was worn right through. The gasket on the back of the tensioners were blown out. I Think that crap that wears off the guides is probably Plugging up our oil pump pick ups. I hear you pretty much have to lift the engine out to drop the pan to look at them for inspection, on the 2004's anyway but I believe you have a split oil pan. I have done the whole thing once before and used the Rock Auto parts and the cam phasers failed and have failed now for a second time. The low oil pressure is whats messing up the phasers in my opinion and they may not actually be failing just low oil pressure so the lockouts will eliminate the knocking. I am sure it will be the best $720 (u.s) I will have spent on the truck.

And yes this is fraud !!!!!




Originally Posted by DeadCode
Let me begin,
2007 F150 FX2; At 43k miles this all started after my battery went dead. I have been pretty easy on this truck except the occasional WOT. I bought it brand new in 2008 so you see 6 years and only 50k at his point. It is now happening more often and ticking me off. I have read most of the threads and determined I will not be going to Ford. Between the crappy spark plugs and now this I think I have been a victim of fraud.
Anyway, I can drive 10 miles home from work and when I pull into the driveway making a left hand turn (seems to happen mostly with the wheel turned to the left in reverse but now in drive as well) the oil gauge doesn't move but RPMs drop way off and the "situation" starts. As others have stated I can shut the truck off and all is fine when started again for the most part. My concern is all the racket that it makes cannot be good for the inside of the engine.
I want this fixed before real damage takes place. After all the threads on this I now see this lockout kit. http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...epair-Kit.html
Is this going to help my situation? I don't really here any chain rattle or anything it is the retarding that concerns me. My under standing is if I'm locked in full advance then this retarded situation should not happen correct?
Old 07-25-2014, 04:42 PM
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Default Thanks Ford

Yea, I have reached my limit. Thursday right on que at my drive way the "situation" started as usual. However, this time it just went retarded and then died. Ok so Im going to pull the the connectors to the solenoids until I can get them changed out. Any objections? I assume I will just not have variable timing anymore correct? Between the VCT solenoids, the spark plugs I dont have that kind of cash right now.

1. Pull the VCT solenoid connectors and live with the CEL for now
2. The truck will at least run for now with A/C

Any good reasons not to do this let me know.
Old 07-25-2014, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano1965
Ok, going to do just the plugs then and hope it is the problem. If not then I will have to open up the valve cover and replace the lash adjusters. Any thoughts on what to put back in as a replacement spark plug.
You get your plugs done yet? That fix the issue?
Old 07-26-2014, 11:44 PM
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Is trouble starting associated with this issue? I've thrown a P0012 and it's progressively having more trouble starting, it'll shake the whole truck.
Old 07-27-2014, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Runner Dude 14
Is trouble starting associated with this issue? I've thrown a P0012 and it's progressively having more trouble starting, it'll shake the whole truck.
For me the situation starts after exactly 10 miles of driving. I assume that is how long it takes to get up to the temp when the problem starts. It is just weird that it happens exactly at my driveway, I mean to the inch. Same thing going to work as soon as I pull in to work it starts. It makes me wonder if the computer is learning this and it keeps making it worse. I am thinking the lockout kit keeps the vct from advancing or retarding and simply pulling the connectors should achieve the same thing. Why Ford would make these not changeable on 07 without cracking the covers is stupid beyond belief. This is one item that should be easy to pull. Ive worked on enough cars to know that tearing into the engine is not something I want to do. What should take 12 hours will take me a week of pain and suffering.
To be dealing with this at 50k miles on a $35k truck is unreal. Ford has lost the battle with me. Never again. I should also say that as soon as I paid this truck off, the problems started. That is BS!
I also wonder if they knew there was a problem and modified the computer at the dealership, then when my battery died it went back the the original garbage code? Like I said this all started when the battery died. And I do believe that is the code it threw once, after that never again. It will not throw a code anymore.

Last edited by DeadCode; 07-27-2014 at 08:58 AM.
Old 07-27-2014, 12:32 PM
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Anyone have a link for the gaskets?
Old 07-27-2014, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Runner Dude 14
Anyone have a link for the gaskets?
Fel-Pro Tcs46078 Timing Cover Gasket Set by Fel-Pro
Amazon.com: Fel-Pro Tcs46078 Timing Cover Gasket Set: Automotive Amazon.com: Fel-Pro Tcs46078 Timing Cover Gasket Set: Automotive
Old 07-27-2014, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by VTX1800N1
Fel-Pro Tcs46078 Timing Cover Gasket Set by Fel-Pro Amazon.com: Fel-Pro Tcs46078 Timing Cover Gasket Set: Automotive


Thanks,

Would you mind helping me out here? I've got someone to do the labor for me at $350, he knows his stuff too. Anyways, I'm trying to purchase everything that I need and he told me I do not need new sprockets, but I do need new solenoids and everything else for the timing system...


That being said, I know I need this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Valve-Cover-Gasket-Set-Fel-Pro-VS-50664-R/141358485302?_trksid=p2050601.c100270.m3465&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140716145441%26meid%3D8614533671819400057%26pid%3D100270%26prg%3D20140716145441%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D181168320228%26clkid%3D8614534795150919522&_qi=RTM1562570
What's the difference in that and what you linked. Also would you mind telling me just what I will need? I'm a bit overwhelmed with everything.
Old 07-27-2014, 09:25 PM
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Well I did pull the connectors and it runs albeit like a baby; CEL, no power and you can tell there is no VCT.
I went ahead and started with the law of diminishing returns: cheapest first
  1. Oil cleansing treatment then change out Full synthetic Mobil1 and Mobile1 filter.
  2. Reset the ECM for 20 minutes and reconnected the solenoids.
  3. Drove 11.4 miles ending at my driveway. Boom the situation starts again right on que.
I am thinking the clackering might be the timing chain slapping the cover. That would probably indicate a broken tensioner but I don't know. Temp says steady at 194 but it feels like its putting out a lot of heat to me? Torque says the advance is about 25 then drops to like 10 when the sputtering happens. Its like its trying to retard but it cant. If I continue the law then the solenoids are next. Tomorrow night I will pull the solenoids again and try to recreate the "situation" at 11 miles. If I get no sputtering then I will call it the solenoids and start saving.
I might call Ford as well and see if there was a secret recall. As far as I know that is part of the power train which I believe federal law requires 60K on power train. Ford site says my warranty ended at 39K. I don't see how, I always buy the 60K.
It's to bad, I liked this truck.
Old 07-27-2014, 09:37 PM
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Really good post but could I add pull cam cap if scored heads are done.


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