HaloJumper

Make this a sticky!!!

2002VertGt

first time took 2 days. Second time took 10 hours. Dunno what you did wrong. You will be sorry with that Chevy. :peace:

Primo

It can be done without dropping the pan. As long as you are not interested in viewing the pick up screen for blockages. There are two bolts to remove from the pick up tube to the oil pump. I don't remember if an 8mm or 10mm wrench is required, either way, though hard to access, they can be removed without dropping the pan. Go slow and don't drop them into the pan. While not easy and requiring some patience and dexterity, it is much easier than dropping the pan (especially on a 4x4 like mine)

primalurges

If only our F150s came with an LS engine out lives would be so much easier.

2002VertGt

. Want a ls, buy a Chevy. Then deal with all of their problems.

primalurges

Didn't mean to get your panties in a bunch. Yeah these tritons are great I see you just swapped your engine👍

2002VertGt

swapped my engine due to aa idiots mistake . My father Inlaws LS needs swapped due to Chevys mistake. Stop trolling and go to your Chevy forums

primalurges

maybe you'll reconsider the LS swap the next time "some idiot" ruins your new engine.

2002VertGt

never. Said idiot will never work on my cars with me again. As stated, go troll somewhere else mr Chevy owner

Eric0508

Add me to the list of successful timing repairs. It felt mighty good to hear her start right up and be quiet as can be. Everyone talks about the 5.4 being a noisier engine to start, but after this swap along with a few new pulleys shes just as quiet as any onther engine ive heard. 2004 with 120K on the clock. A couple things for anyone about to dive into it:

I was a little disappointed after I pulled the timing components out. My truck sounded like 6.0 diesel before, but all the parts i took off looked pretty good. Solenoids looked great, all screens intact. Tensioners held tension good and seals looked intact. Phasers didnt look sprung and all the parts were present. Chains looked great. The solenoid housing gaskets were pristine and all passageways clear. The only things i could see were one of the guides had a small chunk broken off the end, and a few of the teeth on the relucter ring were gouged. Obviously i was getting chain slap if the relucter ring was damaged, but i couldn't see any faults in the tensioners. So I was a little hesitant putting it back together, but when it fired up, all was quiet.

Didnt discharge the A/C. Its tight, but be patient and continue wiggling.

Do your plugs while its apart. so much more space in a tight situation

We ended up pulling the power steering pulley. When we went to reassemble, we noticed the output on the power steering was loose, Maybe from from moving it around too much? I don't know. I do know that with the pulley off, that lower 10mm bolt is so much easier to access. If i were doing it again i would pull the pulley from the start.

There are 4 bolts that bolt the oil pan to the front cover. These arn't included in s-vares pics but they need to come out.

You can do this job with basic tools, but an air ratchet, impact wrench, and mini-impact make it much easier. A 3/8" adapter for a cordless drill makes this faster too.

Ended up renting 3 tools from autozone. the fan removal wrench, harmonic balancer puller, and the pulley puller/installer. The bolts in the hamonic balancer puller kit come in handy to when torquing the crank bolt on also.

I used all fomoco parts plus did a few odds and ends while it was open (water pump, thermostat, plugs & boots, pulleys, etc.) but it came to about $1200 in parts total. I didn't pay much for the truck, so this repair really makes it worthwile.