The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
#1322
Ford Enthusiast
I believe I have found the actual real fix for this. I performed this repair and it still knocked with 5w30. I changed to 10w30 and it quite. It runs like new. So much that I drove it to the Chevy dealership and traded it in on a new Chevy. This will be our last go with a Ford I'm afraid. The problem with this fix is that it doesn't address the real problem at hand. This motor has a oil pressure issue in the top end. It's a leak on the top end somewhere or clogged veins in the heads. If you are going to do this repair I would recommend taking the heads off and getting them completely cleaned out and replace all your adjusters. This job will take you the better part of 5 days if you are new to it. The second time I did it quicker. hope everyone has luck fixing this but I am in Chevy Heaven now!!
#1323
It can be done without dropping the pan. As long as you are not interested in viewing the pick up screen for blockages. There are two bolts to remove from the pick up tube to the oil pump. I don't remember if an 8mm or 10mm wrench is required, either way, though hard to access, they can be removed without dropping the pan. Go slow and don't drop them into the pan. While not easy and requiring some patience and dexterity, it is much easier than dropping the pan (especially on a 4x4 like mine)
#1324
#1325
Ford Enthusiast
#1326
#1327
Ford Enthusiast
#1328
#1329
Ford Enthusiast
#1330
Add me to the list of successful timing repairs. It felt mighty good to hear her start right up and be quiet as can be. Everyone talks about the 5.4 being a noisier engine to start, but after this swap along with a few new pulleys shes just as quiet as any onther engine ive heard. 2004 with 120K on the clock. A couple things for anyone about to dive into it:
I was a little disappointed after I pulled the timing components out. My truck sounded like 6.0 diesel before, but all the parts i took off looked pretty good. Solenoids looked great, all screens intact. Tensioners held tension good and seals looked intact. Phasers didnt look sprung and all the parts were present. Chains looked great. The solenoid housing gaskets were pristine and all passageways clear. The only things i could see were one of the guides had a small chunk broken off the end, and a few of the teeth on the relucter ring were gouged. Obviously i was getting chain slap if the relucter ring was damaged, but i couldn't see any faults in the tensioners. So I was a little hesitant putting it back together, but when it fired up, all was quiet.
Didnt discharge the A/C. Its tight, but be patient and continue wiggling.
Do your plugs while its apart. so much more space in a tight situation
We ended up pulling the power steering pulley. When we went to reassemble, we noticed the output on the power steering was loose, Maybe from from moving it around too much? I don't know. I do know that with the pulley off, that lower 10mm bolt is so much easier to access. If i were doing it again i would pull the pulley from the start.
There are 4 bolts that bolt the oil pan to the front cover. These arn't included in s-vares pics but they need to come out.
You can do this job with basic tools, but an air ratchet, impact wrench, and mini-impact make it much easier. A 3/8" adapter for a cordless drill makes this faster too.
Ended up renting 3 tools from autozone. the fan removal wrench, harmonic balancer puller, and the pulley puller/installer. The bolts in the hamonic balancer puller kit come in handy to when torquing the crank bolt on also.
I used all fomoco parts plus did a few odds and ends while it was open (water pump, thermostat, plugs & boots, pulleys, etc.) but it came to about $1200 in parts total. I didn't pay much for the truck, so this repair really makes it worthwile.
I was a little disappointed after I pulled the timing components out. My truck sounded like 6.0 diesel before, but all the parts i took off looked pretty good. Solenoids looked great, all screens intact. Tensioners held tension good and seals looked intact. Phasers didnt look sprung and all the parts were present. Chains looked great. The solenoid housing gaskets were pristine and all passageways clear. The only things i could see were one of the guides had a small chunk broken off the end, and a few of the teeth on the relucter ring were gouged. Obviously i was getting chain slap if the relucter ring was damaged, but i couldn't see any faults in the tensioners. So I was a little hesitant putting it back together, but when it fired up, all was quiet.
Didnt discharge the A/C. Its tight, but be patient and continue wiggling.
Do your plugs while its apart. so much more space in a tight situation
We ended up pulling the power steering pulley. When we went to reassemble, we noticed the output on the power steering was loose, Maybe from from moving it around too much? I don't know. I do know that with the pulley off, that lower 10mm bolt is so much easier to access. If i were doing it again i would pull the pulley from the start.
There are 4 bolts that bolt the oil pan to the front cover. These arn't included in s-vares pics but they need to come out.
You can do this job with basic tools, but an air ratchet, impact wrench, and mini-impact make it much easier. A 3/8" adapter for a cordless drill makes this faster too.
Ended up renting 3 tools from autozone. the fan removal wrench, harmonic balancer puller, and the pulley puller/installer. The bolts in the hamonic balancer puller kit come in handy to when torquing the crank bolt on also.
I used all fomoco parts plus did a few odds and ends while it was open (water pump, thermostat, plugs & boots, pulleys, etc.) but it came to about $1200 in parts total. I didn't pay much for the truck, so this repair really makes it worthwile.
Last edited by Eric0508; 04-28-2014 at 08:47 AM. Reason: added year and mileage