Jr817

Appreciate the input! And i was wondering if i get the timing belt kit for 200ish and get that done, do a complete engine flush and add something to quiet the lash ajusters will that make my truck quiet? Or will there still be a tick? Since it bearly started ticking i knew it was the belt and im kind of tight on money right now so would it be worth it?

primalurges

most of the costs are labor and you likely have more issues than just chain tensioners. I would wait so you can fix everything that needs fixing once you're in there.

s_vares

this is the best plan. Take your time. Start with oil pressure test engine hot. If your oil pressure is okay tear it down then order parts based on wear. Always replace everything in the chain case.

Best of luck

chrisyuriar

Will this happen again or is this just because motor is now broken in from being rebuilt?

primalurges

it will happen again just don't know when. He have to believe the cause is either a design defect or poor quality components only because this is pretty wide spread.

chrisyuriar

wide spread like many things could cause this. Cause the motor has a three year warranty and i'm kinda just trying to get a good idea before i take it back to the mechanic so they cant dick me around you know.

metalfred

Thank you again S_varies for all your knowledge. And thanks to the rest of the F-150 posters on this site.

I just finished up this job on a 2007 Expedition.

Symptoms: My Expedition would rattle like there were marbles at start up. But, would quiet right down after about 3-4 seconds. Did that almost every time. It would be less noticeable the sooner the start-up was after running. If it sat for a day, it was really loud. I never had any problem with it running. I was still getting 18MPG on the Highway.

After tear down, I found that my passenger side chain guide was broke. Luckily not in pieces, but definitely broke. It looked like the Broken chain guide was, was pushing the chain towards the cover. Then, the seals on both of my tensioners were blown out. I could see a .25” gap in the seal. So, once there was some pressure in the tensioners, the chain would go taught and not rub on the cover. But, once the oil drains out of the tensioner when not running, the chain was able to rub on the cover on start up, until the pressure was in the tensioner. I also noticed that the dowel pin for the Chain guide tension was pushing itself out. I tapped it back into the block about .25”. I noticed that because, on the cover, I could see where pin was rubbing. And, also that the Pin was clean as a whistle close to the block, but oil stained further away.

I wanted to point out some things that maybe of importance to people replacing the timing set on their Expedition. I have a 2007 with the 5.4 3 Valve. Same motor. Some differences in packaging from the F-150 to the Expedition.

1) A/C Lines do not have to be disconnected. The valve cover on the Passenger side is still tricky to get on and off, but can be done.
2) Driver's side Valve cover. Just bend the Oil dip stick out of the way on the Drivers side
3) The power steering pump in a PIA!. You don't have to take the pulley off, just the pump. Can't get a socket and rachet on the top two bolts. Had to use a 12 point wrench to take it off and put back on.
4) Great time to change spark plugs. Much easier to get to.
5) Broke 3 spark plugs using the PB blaster and ratchet technique. I decided to try the impact wrench on the rest. That went well actually. Didn't break another one.
6) Must buy the Lisle Spark plug removal tool. Worked great. I was a nervous nelly the first time using it. I definitely, didn't want to turn this project into removing the heads.
7) It is noted it's easier to pull the Coil pack plug-insoff and the fuel injector plugs and hang the wiring harness away from everything. I took a wire and wrapped the wiring harness and pulled to the top of the cowl to pull it out of the way.

Elective surgery, since I had the truck apart: Replaced both CAM sensors. Replaced Crank sensor. Replaced VCT solenoids. Replaced the gaskets behind the VCT housings. (they were in the Timing cover gasket kit). Replaced valve cover gaskets and bolt grommets. Replaced spark plugs. They looked original. The expedition has 127,000 on it.

When I removed the VCT housings from the Head, there is a set-screw with an allen head. I pulled the set-screw out, and there is an oil screen in the bottom of the hole. I took the oil screens out and cleaned them with some carb cleaner for extra measure. They were surprisingly clean. No sludge, or blockages, but wanted to clean, to be sure.


Used all Fel-Pro gaskets. Quality products!

So, in the end, started right up. It’s been running well for a few mile so far. I only work 2 miles from home. No rattle on start up anymore. And, it does feel like it’s got a little more pep in it’s step!

ChalkoMilk

Sometimes while i have my 5.4L in drive or rev (worse in rev) and let off the brake ( does it worse if theres a load on the truck) it'll begin to idle rough, very rough, to the point where it sounds like its about to stall. It'll shake the truck pretty violently.
The truck responds to the throttle but usually will go back to this shaking after.
Last Monday after i changed the oil i went to back it into the barn (its a steep grade) the truck was nearly stalling at idle.

Ive seen no change in mileage, still great (14L/100km avg) and it runs fine 99% of the time. What should i look into for fixes? not exactly excited about the thought of tearing it apart with only 70000km on it

Brewskey

To me sounds like the VCT SOLENOIDS I have been through a few of them. The screen falls apart and wedges itself in the solenoid keeping it open. And I now use 10-30 oil as 5-20 did that as well

Spike24

Just checking but did you clean the throttle body. I had the same symptoms and cleaning the throttle body of dirt and carbon fix the rough idle.
Just sayin"