The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
12-26-2013, 10:41 PM
#1011
Thanks. I haven't started yet, but I'm hoping there is no damage to the rockers. At this point, I'm not buying any parts till I diagnose the problems. I have a second vehicle, and will probably be taking my sweet time. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll keep you posted.
12-26-2013, 10:51 PM
#1012
Thanks to everyone who has shared their experiences with the 5.4 3 valve engine. I wish Ford had the courage to acknowledge the flaws in design of this engine. I was aware of some of the faults, and purchased my 2006 supercrew 4 x 4 because I love these trucks. I allowed the dealer to do the 100,000 mile service and replace the spark plugs because I was aware of the issues with the plugs breaking, and was nervous about doing it myself, outside in my driveway. At 130,000 I started experiencing a miss at low RPMs when going up hills. It was never bad enough to throw a code, just flashed a few times. I took it to the dealer, and they found nothing. I asked about the cam phasers, because they were a little noisy. The dealer told me this was normal, and I would have to bring it back when a code flashed. The entire time, my mileage got worse. I took it to another garage that I trusted. He found that #8 cylinder spark plug had detonated, destroyed the threads, and destroyed the COP. He recommended a new engine because of the high cost of removing the head. I wasn't ready to give up. I found a thread repair kit for these engines made by a company called "Timesert". It includes everything needed to drill, tap, and insert their specially designed inserts. These are far superior to Helicoils. They recommend removing the head, but it can be done in the vehicle, if you are careful to remove all debris from the cylinder. After repairing the threads, installing new plugs, I took it home. My mechanic was basically scratching his head, guessing at the possible cause for the misfire. So I decided I can replace parts as well as him or a dealer, for a lot less. I have replaced the cats with direct fit Magnaflow units, new fuel injectors, new VCT oil control solenoids, still no better. I will now tackle the cam phaser, timing kit repair. It is great to have this site to consult. If this next repair doesn't do it, I will trade for a new Tundra. I have always driven Fords, but sometimes I get tired of flying the flag for American Made products, and getting screwed. Research the '96 to '99 Taurus SHOs sometime. I have owned 5 SHOs and one of them was a '98. It was a catastrophe. I still went out and bought my '06 F 150. I just wish the dealers could be upfront and make us aware of possible issues. I would still be a buyer, just plan ahead to correct the issues before they become serious. Now when you buy a Ford, you are riding in a ticking time bomb, and it usually detonates as your warranty expires. Anyway, I am looking at FreedomRacing for all the parts to do the repair. Anyone have experience with them?
And guides, and got a gryphon tuner from
Power hungry motor sports , ... 110000 miles
But this made my truck so badass I couldn't
Believe it!!
I just bought this truck, I knew it would need
Some TLC but this thread is right
I found a sprung phaser and a blown
Tensioner seal, the fix was worth it,
There isn't a 5w30 fix or seafoam fix
Or any of the other crap you read.
Stay away from the dealerships also.
If you love your truck , don't waste any more
Money on rumors , just replace the timing set
12-27-2013, 04:27 PM
#1013
From an Old Timer
Hi All,
I have to tell all of you young guys that I admire you for putting up with this BS from Ford. I am 67 years old, I bought my 2004 5.4 three valve V8 as a 2005 Leftover. The first thing that went wrong were the rear seals failed because they were apparently not made of a material that could withstand the synthetic gear oil they used in the rear pumpkin. I asked why they changed the gear oil, when the standard gear oil that they used to use in pumpkins basically lasted forever? Of course I got a "This is new and improved, but it does cost 25 dollars a quart" I again asked what was wrong with the old stuff, since it lasted forever, but that fell on deaf ears. I paid the $800 dollars or so to replace the seals. I then went through the spark plug thing myself at 64,000 miles and only broke one plug. (What engineer in their wrong mind would design spark plugs that break off in the head) I was ready for that by reading these forums, and I added to the write ups. I then had the IWE FWD problem with the IWE solenoid, where it sounds like you are dragging your muffler down the road. I fixed that one with a new solenoid, the aftermarket one with the little roof over it to keep water running down from the windshield guttering system from dumping on the solenoid. I put peel and stick rubber on the dash to shield it and the computer which is attached to the dash. I then had to replace the passenger side door operator, which I understand is a constant problem with these. Now I am hearing of this "Phaser" problem, which is, as I understand it related to hydraulic slave cylinders that put pressure on your timong chains to keep your cam shafts in time. I have 102,000 miles on my truck and guess what? I am getting rid of it poste-haste, and I will never buy another Ford, although I have owned nothing but ford trucks for my work since 1960. They forgot that trucks are supposed to be fool proof, not designed by fools, which is what this vehicle was obviously designed by.
I have a 1994 Ford F-150 with an in-line six cylinder and a 5 speed standard transmission sitting in the driveway with 135,000 miles on it, and it still runs perfect. The spark plugs are easy to change, they don't break off in the head, and the only thing that has failed is the water pump at 80K miles, and the brakes at about 65,000 miles. Now I know why I have had several people come to my front door trying to buy my old truck.
I will keep the 1994, and get rid of the 2004.
Ford should be absolutely ashamed of themselves for what it has done to its loyal customers, and to its vehicles. They have hired engineers that apparently have no idea what it takes to design a product that holds up over the long haul, like their predecessors did.
A properly cared for Ford V8 Gasoline Engine should run for at least 240,000 miles without major work like Timing Chains and "Phasers" and spark plugs that break off in the cylinder head, leaky rear seals, and broken door operators.
Ford can take their "Star Wars" Bull**** like "phasers" and "IWE's" and stick them where the sun don't shine. Ill keep My 1994 2WD Standard six. Ill rebuild the engine, and have her painted, and that should do me just fine.
How ford has managed to completely screw up the most popular vehicle in the history of the world in one fell swoop is completely beyond my ability to comprehend. A saboteur could not have done a better, more comprehensive job of it if he was trying to destroy a reputation. Looks like my new one will be a Tundra, if I buy a new truck.
That is what Free Enterprise is all about. Apparently Ford forgot how it works. You can only blow red, white, and blue smoke up the end users axe for so long before they figure you out.
I have to tell all of you young guys that I admire you for putting up with this BS from Ford. I am 67 years old, I bought my 2004 5.4 three valve V8 as a 2005 Leftover. The first thing that went wrong were the rear seals failed because they were apparently not made of a material that could withstand the synthetic gear oil they used in the rear pumpkin. I asked why they changed the gear oil, when the standard gear oil that they used to use in pumpkins basically lasted forever? Of course I got a "This is new and improved, but it does cost 25 dollars a quart" I again asked what was wrong with the old stuff, since it lasted forever, but that fell on deaf ears. I paid the $800 dollars or so to replace the seals. I then went through the spark plug thing myself at 64,000 miles and only broke one plug. (What engineer in their wrong mind would design spark plugs that break off in the head) I was ready for that by reading these forums, and I added to the write ups. I then had the IWE FWD problem with the IWE solenoid, where it sounds like you are dragging your muffler down the road. I fixed that one with a new solenoid, the aftermarket one with the little roof over it to keep water running down from the windshield guttering system from dumping on the solenoid. I put peel and stick rubber on the dash to shield it and the computer which is attached to the dash. I then had to replace the passenger side door operator, which I understand is a constant problem with these. Now I am hearing of this "Phaser" problem, which is, as I understand it related to hydraulic slave cylinders that put pressure on your timong chains to keep your cam shafts in time. I have 102,000 miles on my truck and guess what? I am getting rid of it poste-haste, and I will never buy another Ford, although I have owned nothing but ford trucks for my work since 1960. They forgot that trucks are supposed to be fool proof, not designed by fools, which is what this vehicle was obviously designed by.
I have a 1994 Ford F-150 with an in-line six cylinder and a 5 speed standard transmission sitting in the driveway with 135,000 miles on it, and it still runs perfect. The spark plugs are easy to change, they don't break off in the head, and the only thing that has failed is the water pump at 80K miles, and the brakes at about 65,000 miles. Now I know why I have had several people come to my front door trying to buy my old truck.
I will keep the 1994, and get rid of the 2004.
Ford should be absolutely ashamed of themselves for what it has done to its loyal customers, and to its vehicles. They have hired engineers that apparently have no idea what it takes to design a product that holds up over the long haul, like their predecessors did.
A properly cared for Ford V8 Gasoline Engine should run for at least 240,000 miles without major work like Timing Chains and "Phasers" and spark plugs that break off in the cylinder head, leaky rear seals, and broken door operators.
Ford can take their "Star Wars" Bull**** like "phasers" and "IWE's" and stick them where the sun don't shine. Ill keep My 1994 2WD Standard six. Ill rebuild the engine, and have her painted, and that should do me just fine.
How ford has managed to completely screw up the most popular vehicle in the history of the world in one fell swoop is completely beyond my ability to comprehend. A saboteur could not have done a better, more comprehensive job of it if he was trying to destroy a reputation. Looks like my new one will be a Tundra, if I buy a new truck.
That is what Free Enterprise is all about. Apparently Ford forgot how it works. You can only blow red, white, and blue smoke up the end users axe for so long before they figure you out.
Last edited by jagans; 12-27-2013 at 04:47 PM.
12-27-2013, 05:14 PM
#1014
Ford
Old Timer, you are absolutely right. Those inline 6 cylinder engines were indestructible. Just for fun I researched replacing my 5.4L with a new Chevy LS engine. There is virtually no aftermarket support for the Ford chassis, but these days you can find everything necessary to install an LS engine from Chevrolet into just about anything. When I finally fix my truck, I am trading it or will sell it on my own. I have spent the last 20 years dealing with break downs, and I am done. I have tried to buy American Made whenever possible, but this time it hasn't paid off. The new Toyota Tundras are great, and probably more of an American made product than the new F150.
12-28-2013, 08:56 AM
#1016
12-28-2013, 03:03 PM
#1017
I also used cloyes and doorman. My tensioners have failed and I will need to replace again. The truck has never quite acted right since doing the work. I think the phasers are also not working correctly. If I do it again I will be using oem.
12-28-2013, 07:45 PM
#1018
If anyone is interested you can buy OEM Ford Timing sets one bay and amazon for about 600 bucks shipped with phasers. I hope they are good because I just bought a set a few days ago...
12-31-2013, 11:48 PM
#1019
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Can this happen on a new "rebuilt" motor i have a rebuilt motor and for the first 2000 miles did not tick but after about 2500 to 3000 miles started ticking. My old motor had the same tick i believe your post to be the problem but the old motor started ticking around 85000 miles and it ended up taking a crap at 116000 miles. So i guess im just wondering is this common for a new motor?
12-31-2013, 11:58 PM
#1020
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Question(s) that I am sure has been answered...
Hey everyone,
1st time poster here.....so thanks in advance for the great help. my 04 super crew has just started the infamous knocking/diesel sound....right now i have about 92K miles on it. I have been doing some research and thanks to all the great advice on this forum I feel this is something I can change myself. My thoughts are to go ahead and replace the following since I will have it torn down.
phasers
guides
chains
tensioners
and whatever else comes with the kit..
My question is one that I probably already know the answer to but in order to cover all my bases I must ask. If i am going to change everything do I need to purchase the timing chain lock wedge (#303-1175)?
My 2nd question pertains to timing as I have never done this before but it doesn't seem to be that hard. Once I pull the old timing chains the engine will be "out of time" so to speak. I have read on this post (and other places) about how to set the timing on this engine. My question is...is it really just that easy? Also after I think I have timed it correctly....is there some way I can test this with some sort of certainty?
thanks for all the great help...
-zd
1st time poster here.....so thanks in advance for the great help. my 04 super crew has just started the infamous knocking/diesel sound....right now i have about 92K miles on it. I have been doing some research and thanks to all the great advice on this forum I feel this is something I can change myself. My thoughts are to go ahead and replace the following since I will have it torn down.
phasers
guides
chains
tensioners
and whatever else comes with the kit..
My question is one that I probably already know the answer to but in order to cover all my bases I must ask. If i am going to change everything do I need to purchase the timing chain lock wedge (#303-1175)?
My 2nd question pertains to timing as I have never done this before but it doesn't seem to be that hard. Once I pull the old timing chains the engine will be "out of time" so to speak. I have read on this post (and other places) about how to set the timing on this engine. My question is...is it really just that easy? Also after I think I have timed it correctly....is there some way I can test this with some sort of certainty?
thanks for all the great help...
-zd