BURNSY

For those of you who have installed them, I have a few questions/concerns. I installed mine yesterday, today was the 1st day I really drove the truck with them. It seems as though it is alot hotter under the hood. Maybe because there is no fan shroud to direct the heat to the enging? Aso, did you use dual relays, or just one for both. The techs at where I got them from, stated that one is sufficient, but the line I ran is extremely hot to the touch (as is the fuse holder and the relay itself). I assume it to be be as a result of so much amperage being drawn through the line (12 guage wire). The temp gauge is reading normal on the dash ... just alot of heat under the hood (what seems more than usual). Thoughts?

mediumfast

I installed efans over the winter. My truck runs at exactly the same temp range as it did before the install, 190-194 degrees. I'm running dual 16 inch fans and a Delta Current Control 50 amp controller. I also have two indicator lights installed in my dash. I used the wire supplied with my controller and installed a Maxi fuse holder. I'm no electrician but if your wiring is getting hot something isn't right. This sounds like an accident waiting to happen....

Justin251

I wish there was a straight forward write up on how to convert to e-fans. I searched but didn't really find anything good.

amitard?

ak_cowboy

X2 on hot wires. Try 8gauge and see if that helps, those fans pull a lot of amps.

Did you notice any mpg increase?

BURNSY

MPG difference .... too early to tell as it has only been one day. Per the advice from the tech's @ KMJ (where I got the fans). They said one relay will work. When I 1st wire everything, I ran a 12 guage battery lead to the relay with a 20amp fuse. I then ran both fans to relay with their own 20 amp fuse each. When I turned the key, the 1st fuse from the battery to the relay blew immediately. Of course my suspicion was the techs were wrong because if I am drawing 20 amps per fan (as the specs indicate), then it is pulling 40 for the fans combined. I replaced the fuse and then the other 2 fuses blew that go from the relay to the fan. I knew that there was not a wiring problem (meaning something grounded out), I just figured the same spiking problem. After correcting the fuses, it worked fine ... which led to the initial post in the beginning because the wires and the fuse holders were extremely hot (12 gauge wire is not rated for amps that high).

Last night I decided to run seperate battery lines/fuses/relays for each fan. I did use the same remote turn on source (my factory radio lead) as a trigger line for when the ignition is on that I do not use because I installed a system that is direct wired to the battery. Problem solved! I did get a bit nervous though when I stopped at a convenience store and shut my truck off and the fans kept running. My first thought was WTF now! I then realized immediately after that what source I used for a trigger line, and had my hand on the door handle with hopes that they shut off as soon as I open the door, it did .... whew!

All in all it worked out well. Definitely alot more room in the front of the engine compartment with no factory fan and shroud. It is a little louder because of the fans, but it runs at the exact same temperature as before. It does feel like it has a little more from stop to go as far as acceleration, and seems that I do not have to use so much gas to accelerate or maintain an average speed. I will see soon enough the MPG differences (if any).

Justin251

Yeah. Im definitely doing this.

BURNSY

It was a little time consuming (but not hard at all). Definitely get a fan clutch removal kit for the factory fan. Cannot do it like the old days of wedging a screwdriver in where the fan bolts up to stop it from turning. The shroud was a pain because you technically should remove the upper radiator hose because of the tabs on the side of the shroud. Knowing I was not going to use the shroud again, I snapped of the tabs and you have to hold the fan after you disconnect it and pull it all out together. There is no way I wanted to disconnect the upper radiator hose (of course it probably would have a few minutes.

mediumfast

There is a lot of information available on how to do this mod. You just have to look for it. I even did a write up on it several months ago on f150online.com. Look me up on f150online.com. I have pictures of my controller, fans, etc.

alfack

I'm going to do this, too. I have everything ready to go, except the DC controller that I ordered on 3/27 and still haven't received

Mod (Ret.)

Personally (and I did), use a shroud. I simply bought a Mark VIII fan from the bone yard (a new one can be bought for $90.00), and with some easy trimming, it fits right in the stock fan shroud. Do a search on my install; it has pics.

I too used and recommend the DCController; highly recommend it as well. You won't see hugh MPG gains, so don't do this mod for that. What you will notice is your AC working much better while sitting in traffic, as well as longer water pump life, as you'll be removing drag off of the engine.

As to the wiring, well I hope you corrected that; an electrical fire under the hood spells a big boom! Those fans draw plenty of current; this is why a controller is highly recommended. The DCController is rated at 50 amps, enough to do a two speed fan (Mark VIII) or two seperate fans. 8 guage at the minimum, and soldered and heat shrinked connectors, not the cheap crimp connectors that most auto parts stores sell. Over time, the crimped connectors get loose, and you'll draw more amperage, blowing a fuse. You did include a heavy fuse, right? The fact that your wiring got hot tells me no, as the fuse would have blown instantly to prevent that.