Electric fans on 07 4.6l installation
07-03-2011, 11:22 PM
#1
Electric fans on 07 4.6l installation
I just got done doing the conversion and ran into different problems but hope to have them sorted out. I am posted all i did so others can have the info if they choose to switch from the clutch fan to e-fans.
1. First off do not go with a pair of universal 16" fans and attach to radiator if you tow at all. in town they were fine but under load they were worthless. Also if you just sat there idling for over 5 min they became worthless. I pulled them and went with the following setup.
Derale 16934 High Output Dual Fans
they are the right size to attach to the radiator and seem to be working a whole lot better. If i have problems down the road I will undate this post. The price for this setup is in the $220 range. you can get them at summit, jegs, etc. They come with two relays with harnesses.
2. Thermostat controller. You can get all the big dollar ones you can find but i landed up using one from autozone which cost under $20. Brand is a Torqflo. torqflo part #733653 $17.99. it is an adjustable thermostat controller with a probe which goes inside the upper radiator hose. buy a replacement worm drive clamp. The factory one will not grip tight enough to prevent from leaking. Buy another gallon to replace what you have to drain when installing the probe. After some tweeking the temp you will nail it and it seems to be working great in turning on the right cycle.
3. A/C control. In my case i tapped into the fuse/relay box under the hood located on the driver side next to the fender. I just located and ac clutch relay and tapped to the output of the relay. IMPORTANT INFO HERE. MAKE SURE YOU RUN THIS LINE TO THE LINE ON YOUR RELAY HARNESSES WITH THE DIODE. There are two lines at for your postive trigger. one has a relay. IF you just wire all too the same your a/c clutch will engage when the relay are triggered from the temp sensor.
keep in mind when i was having heating up problems i was either towing up a pass in near 100 degree outside temp or dealing with 30+ mph head winds in 95+ temps while pulling a load. when i was empty never saw a problem with the old fan setup except when running the engine while parked. The new setup is still being tested to see if it fails in any situation.
4. Tools to get the clutch off. I went to autozone and rented the clutch removal tool. They have 2 different kits. I checked both kits and the cheaper one did not have the sizes needed to fit the truck to remove the clutch. The $60 kit did. at least i can get a full refund when i take it back so cost nothing when done there.
5. took less than an hour to do all the work. I removed the OEM fan shroud, fan, and clutch. installed e-fans, two relays, torqflo controller, ran a switch inside incase i have to kick on fans if something fails, and put all back together. doesn't take long to do.
6. yes you can tell you gained some ponies and it is quieter. no clue on the fuel mpg. I am towing different weights all the time so nothing consistant in my case to see the difference. Yes you can hear the fans at a light and very little on the freeway.
...my wiring not pretty since i had to keep redoing things due to problems...just telling you about the final product. you can see where I fed the probe through on the upper radiator hose and in another pic where the clutch fan unscrews from. Not a pretty engine bay nor is my wiring pretty but you get the idea and can make things pretty the way you want...I wanted you to see hardware and fit. the fans have thier own shrouds as you can see so not just fans attached to the radiator.
================================================== ===========================
07/08/11 update...well i just got back from a long run..
.drove from Albuquerque to Austin to Houston with only a 300lb item in the bed. no overheating issues and no blown fuses
houston to dallas- lost the autozone thermostat controller.no load other than luggage .had to use ac to kick on or manual switch
dallas to denver- blew about 5-7 30amp fuses at different intervals. could not travel over 60 most of the trip...pulling 7x14 enclosed trailer one foot taller than the standard height of an enclosed trailer. had 2 motorcycles in the bed of the truck and about 300lbs of cargo in the trailer.
denver back to albuquerque---no load...cruised at 75-80 on cruise control no overheating and still blowing fuses at different times.
changes made to truck once got back. upgraded to 40 amp fuses. called derali and they suggested this and want me to replace the coolant and thermostat. I dont see how this will fix the issue but i may do it since it is cheap enough. went to autozone and they are swapping the torqflo controller. installing that in a few min...we shall see if it is pattern or just a defective one.
************************************************** *******
07-20-11 update
well i have given up this system just so others know. If you never tow this will work for you but if you tow even 1500#s this will give you issues...i went back to the factory setup since im installing a turbo...i can make up for the loss in the boost.
1. First off do not go with a pair of universal 16" fans and attach to radiator if you tow at all. in town they were fine but under load they were worthless. Also if you just sat there idling for over 5 min they became worthless. I pulled them and went with the following setup.
Derale 16934 High Output Dual Fans
they are the right size to attach to the radiator and seem to be working a whole lot better. If i have problems down the road I will undate this post. The price for this setup is in the $220 range. you can get them at summit, jegs, etc. They come with two relays with harnesses.
2. Thermostat controller. You can get all the big dollar ones you can find but i landed up using one from autozone which cost under $20. Brand is a Torqflo. torqflo part #733653 $17.99. it is an adjustable thermostat controller with a probe which goes inside the upper radiator hose. buy a replacement worm drive clamp. The factory one will not grip tight enough to prevent from leaking. Buy another gallon to replace what you have to drain when installing the probe. After some tweeking the temp you will nail it and it seems to be working great in turning on the right cycle.
3. A/C control. In my case i tapped into the fuse/relay box under the hood located on the driver side next to the fender. I just located and ac clutch relay and tapped to the output of the relay. IMPORTANT INFO HERE. MAKE SURE YOU RUN THIS LINE TO THE LINE ON YOUR RELAY HARNESSES WITH THE DIODE. There are two lines at for your postive trigger. one has a relay. IF you just wire all too the same your a/c clutch will engage when the relay are triggered from the temp sensor.
keep in mind when i was having heating up problems i was either towing up a pass in near 100 degree outside temp or dealing with 30+ mph head winds in 95+ temps while pulling a load. when i was empty never saw a problem with the old fan setup except when running the engine while parked. The new setup is still being tested to see if it fails in any situation.
4. Tools to get the clutch off. I went to autozone and rented the clutch removal tool. They have 2 different kits. I checked both kits and the cheaper one did not have the sizes needed to fit the truck to remove the clutch. The $60 kit did. at least i can get a full refund when i take it back so cost nothing when done there.
5. took less than an hour to do all the work. I removed the OEM fan shroud, fan, and clutch. installed e-fans, two relays, torqflo controller, ran a switch inside incase i have to kick on fans if something fails, and put all back together. doesn't take long to do.
6. yes you can tell you gained some ponies and it is quieter. no clue on the fuel mpg. I am towing different weights all the time so nothing consistant in my case to see the difference. Yes you can hear the fans at a light and very little on the freeway.
...my wiring not pretty since i had to keep redoing things due to problems...just telling you about the final product. you can see where I fed the probe through on the upper radiator hose and in another pic where the clutch fan unscrews from. Not a pretty engine bay nor is my wiring pretty but you get the idea and can make things pretty the way you want...I wanted you to see hardware and fit. the fans have thier own shrouds as you can see so not just fans attached to the radiator.
================================================== ===========================
07/08/11 update...well i just got back from a long run..
.drove from Albuquerque to Austin to Houston with only a 300lb item in the bed. no overheating issues and no blown fuses
houston to dallas- lost the autozone thermostat controller.no load other than luggage .had to use ac to kick on or manual switch
dallas to denver- blew about 5-7 30amp fuses at different intervals. could not travel over 60 most of the trip...pulling 7x14 enclosed trailer one foot taller than the standard height of an enclosed trailer. had 2 motorcycles in the bed of the truck and about 300lbs of cargo in the trailer.
denver back to albuquerque---no load...cruised at 75-80 on cruise control no overheating and still blowing fuses at different times.
changes made to truck once got back. upgraded to 40 amp fuses. called derali and they suggested this and want me to replace the coolant and thermostat. I dont see how this will fix the issue but i may do it since it is cheap enough. went to autozone and they are swapping the torqflo controller. installing that in a few min...we shall see if it is pattern or just a defective one.
************************************************** *******
07-20-11 update
well i have given up this system just so others know. If you never tow this will work for you but if you tow even 1500#s this will give you issues...i went back to the factory setup since im installing a turbo...i can make up for the loss in the boost.
Last edited by hotairgypsy; 07-21-2011 at 01:40 AM.
07-04-2011, 02:25 AM
#2
Moderator (Ret.)
For future reference, go to this guy for your DC Controller and temp probe, all in one kit.
http://www.dccontrol.com/contact.htm
It's the best one on the market, bar none. His two speed type controller even has an AC wire, that will turn your two speed fan on high whenever the AC is on.
Do yourself a favor and solder all wiring (don't use wiring crimps, as they get loose and will corode over time, causing a higher amp draw). Then heat shrink everything to protect the solder connections.
http://www.dccontrol.com/contact.htm
It's the best one on the market, bar none. His two speed type controller even has an AC wire, that will turn your two speed fan on high whenever the AC is on.
Do yourself a favor and solder all wiring (don't use wiring crimps, as they get loose and will corode over time, causing a higher amp draw). Then heat shrink everything to protect the solder connections.
Last edited by Mod (Ret.); 07-04-2011 at 02:28 AM.
07-04-2011, 03:23 AM
#3
Senior Member
Will this work with the 5.4, and does it come with a supplied water pump pulley? Also what are you using to monitor engine temperature, and what readings are you getting?
07-04-2011, 06:53 AM
#4
Moderator (Ret.)
You will not need a waterpump pully, as the one on the engine now stays on the water pump. All you're doing is removing the clutch/fan, which has it's own center nut (as stated in the post, you'll need a way to keep the pulley from spinning. Some use a special tool, others use a large flat screwdriver to hold it).
As top monitoring temps, just use the guage in your cluster! Since the thermostat was not changed, the engine temps will remain the same.
07-04-2011, 11:14 AM
#5
For future reference, go to this guy for your DC Controller and temp probe, all in one kit.
http://www.dccontrol.com/contact.htm
It's the best one on the market, bar none. His two speed type controller even has an AC wire, that will turn your two speed fan on high whenever the AC is on.
Do yourself a favor and solder all wiring (don't use wiring crimps, as they get loose and will corode over time, causing a higher amp draw). Then heat shrink everything to protect the solder connections.
http://www.dccontrol.com/contact.htm
It's the best one on the market, bar none. His two speed type controller even has an AC wire, that will turn your two speed fan on high whenever the AC is on.
Do yourself a favor and solder all wiring (don't use wiring crimps, as they get loose and will corode over time, causing a higher amp draw). Then heat shrink everything to protect the solder connections.
i did look at this option but the fan kit i have is a single speed so could do it but the controller i did install is doing just fine....i am checking it everyday at the moment to make sure it is dependable. His controller is good when doing the MARKVIII (if i have the series of fan correct) conversion. I wanted the fan shroud of of there so i have the room for working on the truck if i need it. The two speed single fan would leave the shround in.
07-04-2011, 11:18 AM
#6
It will work on any engine. Getting good flow and a quality controller are key. There are several writeups on e-fan installations. If you'd like specifics on a 5.4 e-fan install, do a search on "electric fan" or "e-fan". You'll see good write ups and some have great pics as well during the installation.
As top monitoring temps, just use the guage in your cluster! Since the thermostat was not changed, the engine temps will remain the same.
As top monitoring temps, just use the guage in your cluster! Since the thermostat was not changed, the engine temps will remain the same.
As for monitoring the temps i just used the needle gauge in the truck...I never moved in my case past straight up so all I had to do is watch for abnormalities.
07-04-2011, 11:44 AM
#7
Senior Member
Thanks for the information and Bucko he is right there isn't a lot of information on electric fans. Now exhaust/CAI/Programmers are a completely different story which is why I really appreciate he posted this. OP will you please keep this thread updated on how efficiently everything in the system works? Like if the probe/controller/fans are working properly and for how long they've been in the truck.
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07-04-2011, 02:47 PM
#8
Moderator (Ret.)
You guys missed it in the search...There's plenty of posts on this subject. I've included just 3 below, but there's at least a dozon. I did not post any part numbers for fans because I used the Mark VIII fan; a two speed unit which can be bought new, or there are plenty sitting in the boneyards in other Ford vehicles. I bought a used one for $50.00; it's been working in the truck now for over a year. I'm also a firm believer in using the stock fan shroud, as it "pulls" the flow through the radiator using just one fan. I'm into function over saving space. A single fan will do it with a shroud.
You also have a good write up; include a few pictures if you can.
The two speed fan has advantages for the hot days using your AC; the second speed kicks on when the AC is operated (via the controller), or if temps get above a setting (again via the controller). With a one speed fan, you are at stock air flow; good for keeping the radiator cool, but at idle, your AC will not be cold. A two speed cures the "AC not so cool at idle" problem. And you're correct in that the DC Controller I refer to is for two speeds, however, he sells one for a single speed. A couple of additional purposes of using these DC Controllers though is to keep the "starting" amp draw down to initially spin the electric fans. Some can draw a large amount of current to start up. A DC Controller (good one) keeps this way down, as to not burn up fuses or worse under rated wiring which I've seen some folks use. Wire gets hot, or worse, melts. Don't need that under the hood. Other reasons for these types of controllers is that they include adjustable temp probes; you can decide when you want the fan to turn on (adjust the temp) and allow the fan to run after the engine is off, or not. His controllers are a bit more than others, but the features his provide are well worth it. He's well known throughout the Mustang and performance/muscle car crowd.
Here's some posts on e-fan installs:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/soon-e-fan-install-55999/
And here's another posters install:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/e-fans-...ormance-57089/
And another posters install:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/electric-fan-help-81181/
So, you can go the route of two fans mounted to the back of the radiator (no shroud), or one fan within the shroud, or a two speed fan such as the Mark VIII that serves two purposes: cools and makes your AC much cooler at idle. My total was under $150.00.
You also have a good write up; include a few pictures if you can.
The two speed fan has advantages for the hot days using your AC; the second speed kicks on when the AC is operated (via the controller), or if temps get above a setting (again via the controller). With a one speed fan, you are at stock air flow; good for keeping the radiator cool, but at idle, your AC will not be cold. A two speed cures the "AC not so cool at idle" problem. And you're correct in that the DC Controller I refer to is for two speeds, however, he sells one for a single speed. A couple of additional purposes of using these DC Controllers though is to keep the "starting" amp draw down to initially spin the electric fans. Some can draw a large amount of current to start up. A DC Controller (good one) keeps this way down, as to not burn up fuses or worse under rated wiring which I've seen some folks use. Wire gets hot, or worse, melts. Don't need that under the hood. Other reasons for these types of controllers is that they include adjustable temp probes; you can decide when you want the fan to turn on (adjust the temp) and allow the fan to run after the engine is off, or not. His controllers are a bit more than others, but the features his provide are well worth it. He's well known throughout the Mustang and performance/muscle car crowd.
Here's some posts on e-fan installs:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/soon-e-fan-install-55999/
And here's another posters install:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/e-fans-...ormance-57089/
And another posters install:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/electric-fan-help-81181/
So, you can go the route of two fans mounted to the back of the radiator (no shroud), or one fan within the shroud, or a two speed fan such as the Mark VIII that serves two purposes: cools and makes your AC much cooler at idle. My total was under $150.00.
Last edited by Mod (Ret.); 07-04-2011 at 03:17 PM.
07-04-2011, 04:46 PM
#9
You guys missed it in the search...There's plenty of posts on this subject. I've included just 3 below, but there's at least a dozon. I did not post any part numbers for fans because I used the Mark VIII fan; a two speed unit which can be bought new, or there are plenty sitting in the boneyards in other Ford vehicles. I bought a used one for $50.00; it's been working in the truck now for over a year. I'm also a firm believer in using the stock fan shroud, as it "pulls" the flow through the radiator using just one fan. I'm into function over saving space. A single fan will do it with a shroud.
You also have a good write up; include a few pictures if you can.
The two speed fan has advantages for the hot days using your AC; the second speed kicks on when the AC is operated (via the controller), or if temps get above a setting (again via the controller). With a one speed fan, you are at stock air flow; good for keeping the radiator cool, but at idle, your AC will not be cold. A two speed cures the "AC not so cool at idle" problem. And you're correct in that the DC Controller I refer to is for two speeds, however, he sells one for a single speed. A couple of additional purposes of using these DC Controllers though is to keep the "starting" amp draw down to initially spin the electric fans. Some can draw a large amount of current to start up. A DC Controller (good one) keeps this way down, as to not burn up fuses or worse under rated wiring which I've seen some folks use. Wire gets hot, or worse, melts. Don't need that under the hood. Other reasons for these types of controllers is that they include adjustable temp probes; you can decide when you want the fan to turn on (adjust the temp) and allow the fan to run after the engine is off, or not. His controllers are a bit more than others, but the features his provide are well worth it. He's well known throughout the Mustang and performance/muscle car crowd.
Here's some posts on e-fan installs:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/soon-e-fan-install-55999/
And here's another posters install:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/e-fans-...ormance-57089/
And another posters install:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/electric-fan-help-81181/
So, you can go the route of two fans mounted to the back of the radiator (no shroud), or one fan within the shroud, or a two speed fan such as the Mark VIII that serves two purposes: cools and makes your AC much cooler at idle. My total was under $150.00.
You also have a good write up; include a few pictures if you can.
The two speed fan has advantages for the hot days using your AC; the second speed kicks on when the AC is operated (via the controller), or if temps get above a setting (again via the controller). With a one speed fan, you are at stock air flow; good for keeping the radiator cool, but at idle, your AC will not be cold. A two speed cures the "AC not so cool at idle" problem. And you're correct in that the DC Controller I refer to is for two speeds, however, he sells one for a single speed. A couple of additional purposes of using these DC Controllers though is to keep the "starting" amp draw down to initially spin the electric fans. Some can draw a large amount of current to start up. A DC Controller (good one) keeps this way down, as to not burn up fuses or worse under rated wiring which I've seen some folks use. Wire gets hot, or worse, melts. Don't need that under the hood. Other reasons for these types of controllers is that they include adjustable temp probes; you can decide when you want the fan to turn on (adjust the temp) and allow the fan to run after the engine is off, or not. His controllers are a bit more than others, but the features his provide are well worth it. He's well known throughout the Mustang and performance/muscle car crowd.
Here's some posts on e-fan installs:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/soon-e-fan-install-55999/
And here's another posters install:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/e-fans-...ormance-57089/
And another posters install:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/electric-fan-help-81181/
So, you can go the route of two fans mounted to the back of the radiator (no shroud), or one fan within the shroud, or a two speed fan such as the Mark VIII that serves two purposes: cools and makes your AC much cooler at idle. My total was under $150.00.
your input is greatly appreaciate but coming from the standpoint of someone who knows where things are. I looked at your links and 2 of the three in the title said e-fan...when i was looking for the how toos i never looked under e-fan. i typed in electric fan and as for your third link i found that one. I read it when i was started but didnt give me enough to go on so went down the road of some hard knocks. All tech input great. The way i did it was about as cheap as could be down without getting the fan from a junk yard. at least it is a starting point..
07-05-2011, 02:26 AM
#10
Moderator (Ret.)
Your install and write-up was great. Good to see members that take the time to do the work, then post results. Too many times folks use a forum to be "spoon fed" on a project, and do not want to take time to research.
Thanks for posting your progress and results. Hopefully those that take the time to research will find your post and be helped.
Thanks for posting your progress and results. Hopefully those that take the time to research will find your post and be helped.