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Anyone install factory sub/amp in a screw?

Old 05-15-2010, 08:28 PM
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Default Anyone install factory sub/amp in a screw?

I have 2 Screw's. I am going to be selling one and keeping the other.I would like to install the factory amp/sub box into the one I am keeping.I pulled schematics on the system and it only shows 2 connectors.One in the drivers kick panel and the other connector is at the amp.I was wondering if antone had done this install before if they could tell me if there would be a harness for the amp tucked up under the carpet from the factory or if I would have to change the harness from one truck to the other.If thats the case I will not do it.

Thanks
Old 05-20-2010, 11:07 AM
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From what I've read, you pretty much have to pull the rear seat and pull up the carpet to check.

Make sure you grab the components out of the front doors of the audiophile truck too.
Old 05-20-2010, 07:28 PM
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you know honestly i wouldnt even bother imo doing this get you a nice amp like 1,000w $200-500 an amp power kit from best buy $60 and a high to low converter and you will get better results and if the amp is small enuff it will fit under your seat either passenger front seat or the rear seat that has ur jack in it is room to put an amp
Old 05-20-2010, 09:20 PM
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Thanks for the input guys. I am getting older and do not NEED the bump bump but if I can get a free upgrade, why not.I will not spend the money for aftermarket subs and amp but if I could make the factory one work That would be fine with me.
Old 05-20-2010, 11:09 PM
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ok to answer your question yes there is a harness that runs under your carpet a way you can get away with just installing the sub and the amp is you will need a high to low converter there $10 reason you need this is your going to tap off of the driver rear passenger door speaker those signals are too high you have to choke those down

then you need to power your factory amp you have a couple of choices one run a single wire from the amp to your stereo or two frm your amp to the fuse box... the radio main power cord is i believe 12vlts which is the same for the amp

two find a none important fuse that pushes 12vlts nd tap into that i think the power mirrors or the heated mirrors will wrk

then you need another wire for ground

the process is actually easy oh you need some crimpers and connectors all can be found at radioshak

if you need more help dm me with your #
Old 05-21-2010, 09:44 AM
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There's more to that to an audiophile sub amp install. Turn on is only 5 volts and the signal is low passed, so he'll need to swap to the audiophile head unit and pull the signal and turn on from there or he'll need to make a voltage divider for the turn on and buy a separate active crossover and line output converter for the signal. You need a 20 amp power line for the amp, and it needs to be fused.
Old 05-21-2010, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by GATORB8
There's more to that to an audiophile sub amp install. Turn on is only 5 volts and the signal is low passed, so he'll need to swap to the audiophile head unit and pull the signal and turn on from there or he'll need to make a voltage divider for the turn on and buy a separate active crossover and line output converter for the signal. You need a 20 amp power line for the amp, and it needs to be fused.
by sub turn on are you talking about the remote? cuz your right there is a power ground and a remote to make it turn on.

as far as switching the head units no he doesnt if you tap the signal frm the door speaker and use the high to low converter " which is a crossover thats just been made simple" he will get a low signal from the coverter it will have rca outputs he then will need to cut the ends off of the otherside and connect it to his amp

not trying to argue or get in am pissing match with you he wants to bascially install his factory amp and sub in his truck doesnt wanna switch the wireharness nor spend alot of money on it my method is the cheapest quickest way to do it.... i have done it before heck if he was in LA ill do it for him

its a ghetto way to install a sub funny thing is alot of people i see running the factory head units have it done this way and no one is the wiser
Old 05-21-2010, 11:25 AM
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You are talking about a line output converter, which he does need. I'm saying he also needs to low pass crossover the actual frequencies transmitted (only play 80 hz and down) since there is no crossover built into the factory sub amp. Unless you're talking about something like an RE-Q which will run him around $80-100.

I'd recommend swapping the heads to combat the bass roll off of the factory head unit anyways (he's already got it anyways), plus it saves him the added cost of the LOC, the Xover, and the resisters to make the voltage divider to get 12volts down to 5 volts so he can turn on the amp.

Last edited by GATORB8; 05-21-2010 at 11:27 AM.
Old 05-21-2010, 12:11 PM
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This is what i was talkn about http://www.antonline.com/p_SLC4-GP_754335.htm this is a fancy one but its cheap

if the amp only runs on 5volts then he can splice into the rear powerpoint and it has a 20wat fuse in the fuse box number 37 or 38 if i recall correctly
Old 05-21-2010, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by hype6477
This is what i was talkn about http://www.antonline.com/p_SLC4-GP_754335.htm this is a fancy one but its cheap
That is a Line Output Converter (LOC), he also needs a crossover. Something like the Boss BX15 or Pyramid CR66 would work for cheap, but I'd hate to chance it on cheapo sound processors and risk noise induction (neither have bass reconstruction to combat factory roll off either), I'd probably step up to an Re-Q.

Originally Posted by hype6477
if the amp only runs on 5volts then he can splice into the rear powerpoint and it has a 20wat fuse in the fuse box number 37 or 38 if i recall correctly
The powerpoint is not 5 volts. You need both a 20 Amp fused constant 12 volt power and a 5 volt remote turn on to run the amp.


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