Topic Sponsor
2004 - 2008 Ford F150 General discussion on the 2004 - 2008 Ford F150 truck.

Dorman IWE's fail after 10k miles?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-21-2015, 05:57 PM
  #21  
Sheep Dog
 
VTX1800N1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,127
Received 327 Likes on 196 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by jb2012
okay, I just got back home from school and had the chance to really dig into this problem. So the first thing I did was get out a vacuum tester. I hooked it up to the hose that gives the 4x4 vacuum, and I was getting 20lbs of vacuum at that point. So i removed the double hose going to the solenoid and the IWE hose and just attached the IWE hose straight to the point I had just tested. I then went to each side and attached the gauge to the hose going directly into the IWE. I am getting a full 20 lbs on both sides. So I shut the hood and took it for a drive. NO MORE CLICKING!! But.... when moving if I go over 2200 rpms you can hear one of the IWE's really grind, regardless of speed just over 2200 rpm. So I brought the truck back to the shop and hooked the gauge back up to either side and had someone rev up the engine starting at idle slowly all the way up to 4-5k. Not only was there never a drop in pressure the pressure actually went UP. The only conclusion I can come to is that one of the IWE's must have a leak that is unidentifiable until the vacuum goes above 20lbs and at that point maybe a crack opens up just wide enough to lose vacuum. Any thoughts?
There are check valves and a vacuum reservoir in the system that hold vacuum under conditions that would normally result in low engine vacuum. Driving at 2000 RPM, depending on the torque demand, is going to result in much different vacuum than revving the engine to 2000 RPM in neutral.

See my thread here: https://www.f150forum.com/f72/how-di...m-esof-186872/
Old 12-21-2015, 06:02 PM
  #22  
Senior Member
 
warrenoliver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: McFarland, Wisconsin
Posts: 102
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by jb2012
okay, I just got back home from school and had the chance to really dig into this problem. So the first thing I did was get out a vacuum tester. I hooked it up to the hose that gives the 4x4 vacuum, and I was getting 20lbs of vacuum at that point. So i removed the double hose going to the solenoid and the IWE hose and just attached the IWE hose straight to the point I had just tested. I then went to each side and attached the gauge to the hose going directly into the IWE. I am getting a full 20 lbs on both sides. So I shut the hood and took it for a drive. NO MORE CLICKING!! But.... when moving if I go over 2200 rpms you can hear one of the IWE's really grind, regardless of speed just over 2200 rpm. So I brought the truck back to the shop and hooked the gauge back up to either side and had someone rev up the engine starting at idle slowly all the way up to 4-5k. Not only was there never a drop in pressure the pressure actually went UP. The only conclusion I can come to is that one of the IWE's must have a leak that is unidentifiable until the vacuum goes above 20lbs and at that point maybe a crack opens up just wide enough to lose vacuum. Any thoughts?
Perhaps the solenoid itself is going bad. I just had a problem with mine. It failed completely so the system would not hold a vacuum. I could get a vacuum from the intake manifold and the IWE's worked fine if I hooked the two lines together - isolating the solenoid. New solenoid from O'Reilly's fixed er up.
Old 12-21-2015, 06:18 PM
  #23  
Senior Member
 
jb2012's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 523
Received 22 Likes on 19 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by warrenoliver
Perhaps the solenoid itself is going bad. I just had a problem with mine. It failed completely so the system would not hold a vacuum. I could get a vacuum from the intake manifold and the IWE's worked fine if I hooked the two lines together - isolating the solenoid. New solenoid from O'Reilly's fixed er up.
I have a brand new solenoid, so hopefully that isn't it. Plus the problem still persists after isolating the solenoid.
Old 12-21-2015, 06:36 PM
  #24  
Senior Member
 
jb2012's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 523
Received 22 Likes on 19 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by VTX1800N1
There are check valves and a vacuum reservoir in the system that hold vacuum under conditions that would normally result in low engine vacuum. Driving at 2000 RPM, depending on the torque demand, is going to result in much different vacuum than revving the engine to 2000 RPM in neutral.

See my thread here: https://www.f150forum.com/f72/how-di...m-esof-186872/
okay I will look deeper into the check valves and reservoir. I do at least think I am making headway on this. Thanks for the help!
Old 12-22-2015, 09:41 AM
  #25  
Senior Member
 
EBC-150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire, NY
Posts: 520
Received 80 Likes on 73 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jb2012
okay, I just got back home from school and had the chance to really dig into this problem. So the first thing I did was get out a vacuum tester. I hooked it up to the hose that gives the 4x4 vacuum, and I was getting 20lbs of vacuum at that point. So i removed the double hose going to the solenoid and the IWE hose and just attached the IWE hose straight to the point I had just tested. I then went to each side and attached the gauge to the hose going directly into the IWE. I am getting a full 20 lbs on both sides. So I shut the hood and took it for a drive. NO MORE CLICKING!! But.... when moving if I go over 2200 rpms you can hear one of the IWE's really grind, regardless of speed just over 2200 rpm. So I brought the truck back to the shop and hooked the gauge back up to either side and had someone rev up the engine starting at idle slowly all the way up to 4-5k. Not only was there never a drop in pressure the pressure actually went UP. The only conclusion I can come to is that one of the IWE's must have a leak that is unidentifiable until the vacuum goes above 20lbs and at that point maybe a crack opens up just wide enough to lose vacuum. Any thoughts?
Vacuum drops with engine load, not free-revving rpm. You'll see a momentary dip, but vacuum will steadily increase with free-rev's. You can do an online search to verify this...
Old 01-09-2016, 05:06 PM
  #26  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
rkneeshaw's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 174
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

Drivers side IWE vacuum leak down tested at 2inHg per minute
Passenger side IWE vacuum leak down tested at 4inHg per minute

Service manaual calls for 1inHg per minute or less
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/.../308-07A-E.pdf

I also tested vacuum on the vacuum supply hoses at the IWE with engine running in 2wd which should result in 20inHg of vacuum, and I get 0inHg at the drivers side, and only 5inHg on the passenger side.

I connected a vacuum pump to the vacuum supply line just after the IWE solenoid, and could not pull a vacuum at all.

So yep, I have a pretty good vacuum leak after all.

However, both dorman IWE's are also not holding vacuum like they should, after only 10k miles.
Old 01-25-2016, 11:00 PM
  #27  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
rkneeshaw's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 174
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

Replaced vacuum lines, and no more issues. no more clicking in 2wd. when it warms up I'll do some more vacuum tests and see if these IWE's are holding vacuum better now that they are getting some proper exercise.



Quick Reply: Dorman IWE's fail after 10k miles?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:55 AM.