Dorman IWE's fail after 10k miles?
12-09-2015, 06:04 PM
#11
Senior Member
well considering you have to unbolt your upper control arm as well as the tie rod, there is almost zero chance of it being in the same position after. I mean I don't know about y'all but when I spend $1000 on tires I like to not wear them out prematurely. Is it going to be a drastic difference? nope, but can it cause premature wear? absolutely
also I have brand new vacuum hoses both the one connecting to the back of the intake, as well as the 4x4 hose, plus a new dormant solenoid. I can't think of anything else that would cause this issue?
When installing I followed fordtechmakuloco's youtube instructions to a tee.
To sum it up, I have new hoses, new solenoid, and they were installed correctly yet still failed.
also I have brand new vacuum hoses both the one connecting to the back of the intake, as well as the 4x4 hose, plus a new dormant solenoid. I can't think of anything else that would cause this issue?
When installing I followed fordtechmakuloco's youtube instructions to a tee.
To sum it up, I have new hoses, new solenoid, and they were installed correctly yet still failed.
12-11-2015, 12:49 PM
#12
Nope, no new check valves but mine are definitely working right.
12-11-2015, 01:16 PM
#13
x2 on the Dorman comment. I used a Dorman box when I had to replace my driver door window switches on my truck and that's already on its last legs. I used a Dorman belt tensioner on my wife's Fusion and that failed in less than an oil change. I also have a Dorman FPDM sitting at home still in the box... guess what is NOT going to be installed on the truck, ever?
12-13-2015, 08:36 AM
#14
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Dorman haters...
12-13-2015, 08:51 AM
#15
Are you sure it's the IWE that failed? Or is it the hub actuator assembly's? I've even had new factory replacements crack into 2 pieces where the plastic collar meets the ring gear inside them.. It took forever to figure out the issue since they were new, but the truck made sounds going around corners. It sounded like a ringing sound, like a couple washers spinning on a metal dowel, with some slight clicking..
12-13-2015, 01:07 PM
#16
Are you sure it's the IWE that failed? Or is it the hub actuator assembly's? I've even had new factory replacements crack into 2 pieces where the plastic collar meets the ring gear inside them.. It took forever to figure out the issue since they were new, but the truck made sounds going around corners. It sounded like a ringing sound, like a couple washers spinning on a metal dowel, with some slight clicking..
12-13-2015, 03:17 PM
#17
Originally Posted by jb2012
Hmm.... Tell me more? This may be dumb, but I thought the IWE and Hub Actuators were the same thing?
The IWE (integrated wheel END) is the last part that houses the bearing, wheel studs, hub, and cv shaft spline..
The HUB ACTUATOR is the silver vacuum diaghpram before the IWE that disengages and engages the IWE to the CV shaft.
(Bolts to the inside of the steering knuckle)
The solenoid up on the firewall is the vacuum "switch" to lock and unlock the actuators, which engage or disengage the IWE..
To quickly diagnose: with the truck off, crawl under and try and spin the CV shaft.. Without vacuum it should be locked to the hub (IWE). It should not be possible to spin it..
With the truck running, vacuum from the engine should unlock the CV shaft, and it should turn independently from the wheels, by hand.
^^^ this is normal..
Read from post #33 there's pics of what happened to my hub actuator..
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/iwe-cli...269719/index4/
Last edited by Especial86; 12-13-2015 at 03:24 PM.
12-13-2015, 06:51 PM
#18
They are 2 SEPERATE parts on the front of 4wd system..
The IWE (integrated wheel END) is the last part that houses the bearing, wheel studs, hub, and cv shaft spline..
The HUB ACTUATOR is the silver vacuum diaghpram before the IWE that disengages and engages the IWE to the CV shaft.
(Bolts to the inside of the steering knuckle)
The solenoid up on the firewall is the vacuum "switch" to lock and unlock the actuators, which engage or disengage the IWE..
To quickly diagnose: with the truck off, crawl under and try and spin the CV shaft.. Without vacuum it should be locked to the hub (IWE). It should not be possible to spin it..
With the truck running, vacuum from the engine should unlock the CV shaft, and it should turn independently from the wheels, by hand.
^^^ this is normal..
Read from post #33 there's pics of what happened to my hub actuator..
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/iwe-cli...269719/index4/
The IWE (integrated wheel END) is the last part that houses the bearing, wheel studs, hub, and cv shaft spline..
The HUB ACTUATOR is the silver vacuum diaghpram before the IWE that disengages and engages the IWE to the CV shaft.
(Bolts to the inside of the steering knuckle)
The solenoid up on the firewall is the vacuum "switch" to lock and unlock the actuators, which engage or disengage the IWE..
To quickly diagnose: with the truck off, crawl under and try and spin the CV shaft.. Without vacuum it should be locked to the hub (IWE). It should not be possible to spin it..
With the truck running, vacuum from the engine should unlock the CV shaft, and it should turn independently from the wheels, by hand.
^^^ this is normal..
Read from post #33 there's pics of what happened to my hub actuator..
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/iwe-cli...269719/index4/
12-20-2015, 09:50 PM
#19
They are 2 SEPERATE parts on the front of 4wd system..
The IWE (integrated wheel END) is the last part that houses the bearing, wheel studs, hub, and cv shaft spline..
The HUB ACTUATOR is the silver vacuum diaghpram before the IWE that disengages and engages the IWE to the CV shaft.
(Bolts to the inside of the steering knuckle)
The solenoid up on the firewall is the vacuum "switch" to lock and unlock the actuators, which engage or disengage the IWE..
To quickly diagnose: with the truck off, crawl under and try and spin the CV shaft.. Without vacuum it should be locked to the hub (IWE). It should not be possible to spin it..
With the truck running, vacuum from the engine should unlock the CV shaft, and it should turn independently from the wheels, by hand.
^^^ this is normal..
Read from post #33 there's pics of what happened to my hub actuator..
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/iwe-cli...269719/index4/
The IWE (integrated wheel END) is the last part that houses the bearing, wheel studs, hub, and cv shaft spline..
The HUB ACTUATOR is the silver vacuum diaghpram before the IWE that disengages and engages the IWE to the CV shaft.
(Bolts to the inside of the steering knuckle)
The solenoid up on the firewall is the vacuum "switch" to lock and unlock the actuators, which engage or disengage the IWE..
To quickly diagnose: with the truck off, crawl under and try and spin the CV shaft.. Without vacuum it should be locked to the hub (IWE). It should not be possible to spin it..
With the truck running, vacuum from the engine should unlock the CV shaft, and it should turn independently from the wheels, by hand.
^^^ this is normal..
Read from post #33 there's pics of what happened to my hub actuator..
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/iwe-cli...269719/index4/
Actually, no, you have that wrong. The IWE serves as the connect/disconnect between the axle end and the hub. The hub contains the wheel bearing (as the only moving part), the brake disc flange with the wheel studs, and on the other end is a ring gear interface for the IWE. The only moving part that can fail in the hub is the wheel bearing. It also contains the ABS sensor. The IWE contains the diaphragm and vacuum seals. Really, you are just confusing terms here. I've heard the IWEs referred to as "hub actuators" before, but it's best to just keep calling them IWEs since the hub/bearing assembly is a different part altogether.
The picture in your link is part of the IWE, which has separated into two pieces.
Last edited by VTX1800N1; 12-20-2015 at 09:53 PM.
12-21-2015, 05:45 PM
#20
okay, I just got back home from school and had the chance to really dig into this problem. So the first thing I did was get out a vacuum tester. I hooked it up to the hose that gives the 4x4 vacuum, and I was getting 20lbs of vacuum at that point. So i removed the double hose going to the solenoid and the IWE hose and just attached the IWE hose straight to the point I had just tested. I then went to each side and attached the gauge to the hose going directly into the IWE. I am getting a full 20 lbs on both sides. So I shut the hood and took it for a drive. NO MORE CLICKING!! But.... when moving if I go over 2200 rpms you can hear one of the IWE's really grind, regardless of speed just over 2200 rpm. So I brought the truck back to the shop and hooked the gauge back up to either side and had someone rev up the engine starting at idle slowly all the way up to 4-5k. Not only was there never a drop in pressure the pressure actually went UP. The only conclusion I can come to is that one of the IWE's must have a leak that is unidentifiable until the vacuum goes above 20lbs and at that point maybe a crack opens up just wide enough to lose vacuum. Any thoughts?