ejmr

My truck began with rough idleing when coming to a stop, I removed the plugs to both VCT solenoids and both cam sensors and the problem went away. How long can I run the truck like this? I did this about 5 months ago and haven't had the problem again. My thinking is that doing this accomplishes the same as locking out the cam phasers.

GrimaceTimus

The problem went away ... but I have to assume you have a permanent CEL. Chances are you are running really rich in the higher RPMs and it is probable that you have burned-up your CATs.

ejmr

Yes, I do have a permanent CEL, but my question is, How is this different than locking out the CAM phasers with one of those aftermarkets lockout kits?
By the way I should tell you that I'm in the process of replacing the timing chains, guides and tensioners. I had a chain slap noise, removed the timing cover and you can see where the drivers side chain was rubbing against the cover and also the oil pump. The guide is broken, tomorrow I'm taking off the tensioner and hopefully that is the culprit and will fix all the problems. I will be connecting back the sensors and solenoids once I replaced everything and see if the problem is fixed.

FordSilly

dude no,
The difference between the aftermarket lockout kit is that it changes your fuel map so you aren't confusing the hell out of the engine and burning down your cats by dumping a ton of fuel into them.

And if your in there doing the timing swap just put in new phasers. You already have the hard part done, which is getting to them

And I have the lockout kit

GrimaceTimus

I agree with FordSilly ... you might as well replace the phasers while you're in there. If you plan on keeping the truck for the long-haul, I'd also consider inspecting your lash-adjusters and followers (rockers). It's a lot of work, but I made the mistake of skipping that step and I really regret it now. I am pretty sure I have some sticky lash adjusters that need replacing. Grrr.

Given that you have driven your truck for 5 months this way, I really think that your catalytic converters are toast. I could be wrong...but after you get it all back together and reset the PCM, I am guessing you'll get the CEL again and codes for bad cats.

ejmr

I finished replacing the timing components. The truck started right up but after a while it turned off. The ticking and rattling went away but now is not ideling good and wants to die. Does anyone knows where the rubber hose coming out of the brake booster goes in the back of the engine?, does it connect to something in the back or its just loose.

P.S> I would have replaced the lash adjusters and rockers but I just didn't have the money to do it.

tomb1269

The booster line is a vaccum line and connects to an inlet in the intake down behind the throttle body. It is most likely the reason she ran ruff and shut off.

ejmr

Thanks TOM, how do I get back there, do I have to remove the intake? I can barely fit my hand back there.

GrimaceTimus

So...on my truck, the rubber hose on the brake-booster connects to a metal tube that is form-bent around the driver's side valvecover. From there, I'd guess that the metal tube is press-fit or bolted to the back of the intake, near the firewall. If all you have is a rubber-host, someone had to have retrofit that.

I'll take a look at my manual when I get home this evening and provide some more feedback.

ejmr

Grimace, I have exactly what you described, sorry I wasn't much specific. I'll take a picture and post it, I still haven't found where the other end goes.

I'm throwing codes 2195, and 2197, I think these are because of that hose/pipe I haven't been able to connect.