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Do not rotate the engine with the chains off. It is easier to rotate with the chains on, get the timing mark lined up and the lobes and then I would pull the chains back off, and re-align the colored links.
Can you rotate the engine by hand a few revolutions? Have you checked the followers to make sure non jumped off of the lash adjuster?
Kroil is a good way to go with helping with the spark plugs, a lot of people spray some in, let it set, then maybe a 1/4 turn, let it set, and then 1/4 turn to see how it feels.
You want the fluid out of the cly before you turn it because of a possible hydro lock . That's why the carb cleaner ,it evaporates . What ever- try to get it cleared before putting sparkplugs back in .
I wish I was near enough to your location to give you one on one help . I read up on this job many times before I did it . I fully got the engine working in my mind but I still had questions in the middle of it . I wrote out many notes .
One way to stop an interference problem is to set your crank at 6oclock gear dot , tdc on no1 , Remove chains. Lift the cams by loosening all the cambolts in the proper order, you don't have to pull them off . You will have to torque them down later in the proper sequence . If you pull the journal they have to be marked , they must go back exactly how they come off . You must have a torque wrench . Try to put some oil in the surfaces first .
As you can see they are from the center out . I slowly turned each a little each time not all at once staying in sequence . Be gentle with the cams, journals and phasors .
If the cam bolts are loosened enough they won't be pushing any valve down so you won't have to worry about rotating cams . I could not put the chains on until I tightened them back down ,they just won't reach that far .
You must keep a close eye on the rollers so they stay in position ,double triple check . I pulled mine because I changed all rollers and lash adjusters . Had to !
Before installing plugs so you don't fight compression !
When you have it all ready to check you must turn the engine crank 2 times to check for no interference . That's one complete 4 stroke , Each cam will have turned one full turn .That's my minimum . Your links will not match up for many turns after that . If you need the links lined up . You have to go back to no 1 tdc, gear dot 6 oclock ,cams lobes in right position and redo chains .
I never had to do that .
Good luck .
ok, you guys are saying that it's not actually the ENGINE that jumps with the cams moving to different positions when everyone talks about "jumping time" but the chains that move. The engine should still be correct I just have to put the chains back to line up with the 1800 mark on the crank? I think this is the thing I'm having trouble understanding. Or I rotate the crank with the chains on until the cams are in TDC then remove the chains leaving the cams there and rotate the crank until it has the 1800 dot in position then put the chains back on making sure #1 and #5 cam lobes are correct?
If one of the cams, in this case Right side jumps out of time I don't see what rotating the cranshaft into correct position will accomplish with the chains still on as the Right side will still be out of position while the Left side will be ok. I still have to get the right correct somehow. What the heck am I missing in my "densitude"
For some reason everything I keep reading does not make sense to me on this point and believe me I've read a ton. Maybe too much which is part of the problem. Everyone assumes people know this stuff and starts the explanations of how to do the job assuming this basic knowledge so pick up at a point after it.
Thanks for everyones help. I'm glad I'm better are reloading ammunition than doing engine work.
Yes the chain on one side usually jumps to put it out of sync or time .
Cams do not have tdc .The no1 piston is at the top (TDC), and at the same time the lobes on no1 are like the drawing so too are the lobe position on number 5 as per its drawing . Then if the chains are on at their marked point per drawing then it is all synched or timed .Don't even think about where the piston is on no.5 ,we only care where the cam lobes are at. The crank is locked in because its dot is at 6 oclock . As long as the chains are tight all stay locked in snych as they move . If your cam lobes were not approx right the you could be out by 180 degrees and your L and Right on cam phasor would be wrong .
If a guide breaks it lets the chain flop around and jump tooths on the cam phasor or crank gear , I guess it gets like a loop in it .
There is a spring in the chain tensioner but the real force is oil pressure inside it that causes it to really tighten hard at throttle . Now if the tensioner seal gets bad it loses that pressure and with the chain flipping around you get a chance for it to jump tooths .
TDC =top dead center on the piston . We are syncing everything to number one TDC and we need the cam lobes to be just so, so that they are mechanically timed together at this instant with the crank.
If you like you can buy the crank tool on amazon that locks the crankshaft at 6 oclock , it uses the key way and cover alignment pin to get it just right . I used that tool myself .
If you were near I would come over there with it , I also bought and used the cam holding tool to bolt and unbolt phasor .
You may need another head there working with you ,I can't quite see where you may be misunderstanding something . This is not easy to get your head around . Maybe you could talk to S vares , I don't want to misinform you somehow . https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Cranksha...ord+crank+tool
Last edited by redfishtd; 07-21-2016 at 06:14 PM.
Reason: meant to hit preview
If you notice the 3 tines on your cam phasor are pointed in different directions from drivers side to passenger side . I showing a picture of what they should look like . If not you could have one 180 degrees out . Not possible with lobes in correct positions . Here again No .1 is at TDC.
I'd like to thank everyone for the help. I did get everything back together right by using the Chiltons and the help I got here but I ran into another problem. When starting the truck I heard a loud rapping on the drivers side so shut it off immediately. I had it towed to a repair shop and the engine guy, they are a certified Jasper Engine dealer, said that there was a bent rod caused by the plastic chain guide breaking and it jumping time so I left it there and let them crack it open. $1,800 for that plus the few hundred for the parts and it runs fine and was still over $1,000 less than the dealer wanted. Oh, well on to other problems. I just started a thread on the power steering that stopped working and the back jumps so I think the gears are gouged and it has a leak on the drivers side bearing and axle seal.
I'm more interested in the power steering right now so if anybody would care to comment on the thread I started I'd appreciate it.
Thanks for all the help on the timing. At least I got it back together right with everyones help
Check the steering shaft ujoints they are known to rust up a lil and start to bind. I know mine did I thought P/S service or pump or etc someone pointed me to the shaft as its one of those "known" issues
Check the steering shaft ujoints they are known to rust up a lil and start to bind. I know mine did I thought P/S service or pump or etc someone pointed me to the shaft as its one of those "known" issues
Thanks for the tip. I'm discounting this as it worked fine then just stopped abruptly while turning a corner. I started a thread on this to avoid hijacking this one.
You pulled the reluctor off the crankshaft did you note the side that says front ?Is it damaged ? IT is a common mistake .If its backwards it won't start . Are you sure your crankshaft position sensor got plugged in good .It reads the reluctor . Did you clean it and inspect it .
How about your camshaft position sensors ? I know my 05 has them but your 04 doesn't have cam phasors so maybe you don't have any .
One coil off shouldn't stop it from running . Its strange you can't seat it on no 7 . Did you use dielectric grease on the boots as you should . Did you check the timing for both chains ? You can't do just one . You have to be topdead center on number one passenger side . the lobes on no1 and number 5 cams must be like the book . the crank gear dot at six oclock , the driver side chain is put back on at the one marked link at the 6 oclock dot, the two links straddle the mark on cam shaft. The other side is the same . If the cam lodes are not positioned correctly it will be wrong .
No 1 cams-- none are pushing on a valve that means it is on the compression stroke at tdc . The cams rule they determine if its compression or exhaust .
I am used to the 5.4 l 3v so I don't have the exact procedure for your engine .
When you replaced the guides you must have taken both chains off to set timing right ?I would have set the engine at tdc no1 first on compression stroke . I noted the position of the cams and marked the shafts , mine had jumped time on passenger side, the marks told me that when I retimed it with the marked chains . My guide was busted on the passenger side also .
I changed all the rollers and lash adjusters so I lifted both cams out and started from scratch I kept no1 at tdc and put cams back to my marks.
Did you take the oil pan off and get those pieces of guides out , the oil pickup screen will be full of plastic to the oil pump . You have to take that tube out to get them all extracted .
If you used your old chains did you fold them in two and mark them to make it easy to see . My old chains marks could not been seen but I used new chains .
Sorry if this is different for a 5.4 2v which yours is . I have worked on a 5.4 l 4v lincoln . But not your exact motor .
Good luck .
5.4 3v just paid a guy to do rollers,phasers, new chains, new guides, new about everything. He showed me when he put it back together the driver chain was loose. He said after it runs the pressure builds up and it will be tight. I have been reading things like this cause more problems. Did he just mess up my motor? He also said he pulled camshaft straight off and replaced rollers. Is there a process in which to change them? He just finished it I haven't started it yet.
07-20-2016, 10:31 PM
