diver64

Alright. 2004 FX4 5.4 Triton. The chain guide on the passenger side broke off so I pulled the front cover off and did a timing chain job on it. Everything matched up, when I turned the crank over by hand nothing rapped so I put it back together. Now it won't start. Turns a couple of times and stops dead. The only code I'm getting is p2106. The first few times I got a p2004 but when I cleared them out that one went away and nothing but the 2106.

I heard a few weird raps on the drivers side, the side I did not do anything to towards the back of the motor. Now when it turns over a few times that went away too. I did have a hard time getting the coil packs back on and #7 never tightned down for some reason. Could it be that?

redfishtd

You pulled the reluctor off the crankshaft did you note the side that says front ?Is it damaged ? IT is a common mistake .If its backwards it won't start . Are you sure your crankshaft position sensor got plugged in good .It reads the reluctor . Did you clean it and inspect it .
How about your camshaft position sensors ? I know my 05 has them but your 04 doesn't have cam phasors so maybe you don't have any .
One coil off shouldn't stop it from running . Its strange you can't seat it on no 7 . Did you use dielectric grease on the boots as you should . Did you check the timing for both chains ? You can't do just one . You have to be topdead center on number one passenger side . the lobes on no1 and number 5 cams must be like the book . the crank gear dot at six oclock , the driver side chain is put back on at the one marked link at the 6 oclock dot, the two links straddle the mark on cam shaft. The other side is the same . If the cam lodes are not positioned correctly it will be wrong .
No 1 cams-- none are pushing on a valve that means it is on the compression stroke at tdc . The cams rule they determine if its compression or exhaust .
I am used to the 5.4 l 3v so I don't have the exact procedure for your engine .
When you replaced the guides you must have taken both chains off to set timing right ?I would have set the engine at tdc no1 first on compression stroke . I noted the position of the cams and marked the shafts , mine had jumped time on passenger side, the marks told me that when I retimed it with the marked chains . My guide was busted on the passenger side also .
I changed all the rollers and lash adjusters so I lifted both cams out and started from scratch I kept no1 at tdc and put cams back to my marks.
Did you take the oil pan off and get those pieces of guides out , the oil pickup screen will be full of plastic to the oil pump . You have to take that tube out to get them all extracted .
If you used your old chains did you fold them in two and mark them to make it easy to see . My old chains marks could not been seen but I used new chains .
Sorry if this is different for a 5.4 2v which yours is . I have worked on a 5.4 l 4v lincoln . But not your exact motor .
Good luck .

vintageman

He has the 5.4L 3V not the 2V in his truck, new body style not heritage.

OP, I replied with a couple questions on the "Final Guide" where you posted earlier. When you were in the engine, did you take a look at or remove any of the Followers? If you had a Rap sound, I am thinking a Follower may have popped out of place. Either way, I would pull that drivers side valve cover off again and take a look, a rap noise is not a good thing especially if you could rotate the engine by hand before putting it together and now you cannot. Take some pics and post here if you take it back apart. At least the drivers side vc can be taken off in less than an hour and doesn't have those AC lines in the way. Good luck, let us know.
Tom

redfishtd

You did say triton so I guess it is a 3v. My bad , I agree you should look at the drivers side valve train , I have no Idea how you dealt with that side . I had a follower on number 8 thrown to one side, luckily it was one of the intakes so it would still run. So I had to replace lash adjusters and rollers as well .
Let us know how you are coming along with it . Make sure your chains stay tight on the side opposite the tensioners when setting your timing .

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

Triton does not designate 3V from 2V.........It is Fords modular V8 and V10 from 97-10. Example: My 01 Superduty had the Triton 5.4 2V.

redfishtd

The instructions somes times refer to a notch or mark on the crank pulley . Mine has none- I didn't need it marked as it was off anyway .. Then they refer to the keyway position or the dot on the crank shaft gear . I mainly used the dot on the crank gear and at six oclock that dot corresponded to the keyway at 11 oclock .
Then they moved the dot to the 7 oclock position this made it easier to see when in engine compartment and it took pressure off the right hand cam this corresponded to keyway at 12o clock . . But they had removed some rollers on each cam which I was not going to do . I didn't want to buy a 180 dollar tool or try to fight the rollers back in with the pop out method in a tight engine compartment . So I stayed at 6 oclock with the dot My cam marks and cam lobe positions from the ford book matched just fine, a mirror helped me see the six oclock chain link . . I was very careful to keep checking those rollers were in place after lifting cams,replacing them and rotating engine clockwise after chains installed .
S vares writeup is great but it should be edited to show the sensor ring /reluctor has a front side that should be towards the radiator . I marked mine again as it was hard to see front stamp but kudos to the poster that gave us the heads up on that . What a job to redo to turn that around when it won't start . Also thanks to the guy that had you plug the crank sensor in before you bolt down the timing cover , that's a tight spot . If that's not seated it won't start .
This job would be impossible without the nice people on this forum .

diver64

I'll try and answer a few of the question put up.

Yes, I did put the reluctor on correctly. I know this because when I put the front cover on the first time I noticed it sitting right on top of the air intake so took the cover off and put it on with "front" facing outwards

The crank pully sprocket was set with the keyway at 1100 to match the TDC marked on the front cover before I pulled the cover off. I also checked to make sure the timing dot on the front of the sprocket was pointing downwards at about 1800 or as near as I could get.

I never touched the rollers or springs or anything so I don't see how one could have popped off. It did not make this noise when I shut it off. The only noise was coming from the passenger side that had the chain guide broken off.

Oil pan was removed to get all the plastic out and that sucked but I got it.

The lobes should have been in the correct position as nothing moved. The drivers side was under a little pressure and moved a little towards the inside of the engine but I turned it back when I put the chain on and it lined up fine. The passenger side had no tension when the cam phaser cam off. I surmise that it jumped time due to the lack of tension on the chain. When I rotated it up to line the marks up with the chain it then moved forward to put a little slack in the chain no matter what I did. I rotated the crank a few degrees to get the slack out before putting the engine back together.
Was this the problem? If your facing the truck leaning over the radiator to work on it the phaser on the passenger side that had the chain guide gone wants to rotate clockwise after lining up the timing marks so no matter what I do the slack go's back into the chain. Not all of it but a little of it. The only way to get it out is to move the crank a little.

I read the write-up by S Vares and the answer from vintageman (thanks guys) both were a big help but one thing was not explained. Can you turn one cam without the chain on to get the lobes in the correct position and if so to you pull the spark plug out to check the piston is at the top? If you do this without moving the drivers side, leaving the chain on, will that one be ok?

I rotated the engine to make sure I had no sound and it was silent and turned easily but the instructions just say to rotate the engine. It doesn't say how many turns of the crank I should do this to check.

I'm a complete novice at this type of work and a little disappointed that with the help here, a Chilton's and some youtube video's I can't get it right.

One last thing: I posted this on the s vares thread but both of the phasers were backwards with the left having an R upwards and the right side having the L upwards. Each had a single tooth directly over the marks. I put the new chains on just like that with the single link above them and the two colored links straddling the dot on the crank gear.

So.........I read that I should line up the marks on the camshaft. Mine has no marks, do they mean the key? I should put the phasers on with the pin on the back of the phaser matching up with the keyway, right? I've also read about having the CAM marks at 1100 and 1200. Do they mean the Keyways and will this put the Right side at TDC? When I put the crank at TDC to match the mark on the back of the harmonic balencer to the TDC mark on the front cover, there are two marks with one clearly marked TDC at about 1100 and the other mark at 1000, the dot on the crank pulley was not exactly at 1800 but more like 1730 or so. I left it where it was when putting the chains back on.

When and if I take this apart again should I leave the chains on and rotate the crank clockwise with a 32mm socket until the marks on the cam phaser read R on Rightside and L on Leftside then make sure the crankshaft dot is at 0600 then remove the chain from the passenger side and rotate the camshaft until it is TDC by position of cam lobes then put the chain back on?

I know this is a lot of questions but I've been at this for a month and I'm a little stumped at the passenger side and exactly how to get this at TDC isn't really mentioned after it's jumped time without moving anything else. Thanks, guys

vintageman

Don't give up hope on this this, you will get it.
Here's where I would start. First, rotate the engine by hand until you get the timing mark on the harmonic balancer at the right position. Then remove your valve covers, look at the cam lobes to verify correct position (pic in in my album for timing mark and cam lobes), if they are not in the correct position, rotate again a full turn and they should line up. Then remove the harmonic balancer and front cover. At that point, because the engine has been rotated, the colored links will probably not line up but the L and R should be pointing in the correct directions to ease your mind on that question. Then, mark your cams with some paint marker (i used some of my wife's nail polish) this will help with lining everything back up. I would then take the phasers and chains back off one more time just to line all the colored links back up (you will need a couple more phaser bolts as these are torque to yield but worth the money for new ones and I would just change them out). While the chains and phasers are still off, you may want to inspect your cams for any scoring (you would have to remove them to check though) not hard, just make sure that you pay attention to the cam cap position and directions because they need to go back on the same way and be torqued correctly starting at the middle one and working outwards towards the ends tightening a little, then moving to another one until they are all evenly torqued.
If you take the cams off, inspect the rollers that are on each of the Followers as well for smooth operation, you can and should also pull out the Lash Adjusters and hold them in some oil (i used a stainless bowl filled with fresh oil and kinda pumped them up to bleed the air out of them and verify that they pumped up, I found 13 bad lash adjusters in mine), then reinstall them, then the followers on top, then the cams. I also used engine assembly lube on my cam journals for better start up lube.
Once you reinstall the cams and have them lined up with your paint marker points, put a set of vice grips on the end of the cam behind where the phasers go on a non-journaled part of the cam, install the chains where the colored links line up and line the phaser up with the cam, you may have to turn the cam slightly to get the phaser to line up and slide on. Install the new bolt in the phaser, check your tensioner and to make sure that it is lined up with the guide arm correctly. Then after everything is lined up and installed, torque the phaser bolt properly. After everything, rotate the engine by hand a few revolutions to ensure that there is no valve to piston contact. Don't forget to put your reluctor ring back on (I did, and saw it after the cover was back in place), plug your crank sensor back in and reassemble. Good luck, let us know how it goes and take pics if you have any questions.
Tom

redfishtd

The only piston you have to set at TDC is no1 .that is the passenger side towards the radiator . Forget the mark on the crank pulley use the dot on the gear at six oclock .
The advice is to carefully use a small wooden dowel in the spark plug hole to gauge the TDC on number one . Don't worry about no 5 . All the sparkplugs should be out so you don't have to fight compression . I put paper towels in each hole to prevent anything falling in .
Your cam phasors are dual marked ,the pin that locks them to the cam shaft determines whether the r or l is up . Both phasors are exactly the same . The position of the lobes of each cam are very important at this time . The ford procedure shows a drawing of exactly how they should be . Also note that R is the passenger side .
There are two positions of the piston that will be at top dead center one is the compression stroke the other is the exhaust stroke . You want to be at no.1 TDC compression stroke . The lobes will not be pressing down on any valve on no.1 . At the same time they give you a drawing on number 5 lobes and what they should look like and it has nothing to do with a tdc on no5 .
The other thing on the chain placement ,the two links straddle the l and r marks on the cam phasor , the single link is on the dot of the crank gear .
One thing you should understand is the ratio of the crank to the cam . The cam phasor gear is 2 times as big as the crank gear . That means the cam only turns a half revolution for each crank full revolution . The crank has to turn twice to complete a full 4 stroke cycle . That's why the cam lobe position is so important .
Even the workshop manual is confusing on the strokes .
Sorry I'm not to good on picture insertion .

diver64

Thanks for the answers, guys but I still have one question. If it has jumped time on the R side (passenger) can I take off the chain and rotate the cam only until it is correct then put the chain back on lining up the mark on at the 1800 position on the crank pully with the colored links on the chain? The L side (drivers) still was on, good tension etc when I took off the cover in the first place so I'm going to assume that it is correct. If I turn the crank so that the colored links straddle the L on the left side the crank should then be at the 1800 mark. I can then assume this is correct and turn the R side without the chain on until the lobes are correct and No 1 is at TDC using a wooden dowel to make sure along with the lobe position. I can then put the chain on that one and it should be timed? I hope?

Sorry if I'm running around in circles but I did it wrong once and want to get it right the second time.

BTW: After reading a number of posts about the fun and games of removing the spark plugs from this engine I also read to put some penetrating oil in the hole before trying to loosen. I was thinking of an inch or so of Kroil and letting it sit for several days before trying. Any downside to this plan?