Cylinder 1 misfire
08-14-2016, 11:46 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Cylinder 1 misfire
Hey gents, so I was driving my 07 XL 4.6L with 160,000 miles on the freeway yesterday hitting about 80 MPH or so when a check engine light popped up, went into my edge evolution and it said cylinder 1 misfire detected. Typical symptoms of rough idle, missing top end power and sluggish everywhere else. What is the first thing that comes to mind, Spark plug, COP, or injector? Anyone know the cylinder firing order?
I Replaced all 4 passenger plugs after one got ejected and I had to put a timesert in the #3 passenger side, But didn't want to spend the time replacing the driver side plugs while I was in there. It had already taken me 2 or 3 days to fix the passenger side so I was tired and didn't feel like wrenching anymore. Cleaned the injectors and replaced all 4 of the COP's on that side as well. Am I paying for my laziness now?
I Replaced all 4 passenger plugs after one got ejected and I had to put a timesert in the #3 passenger side, But didn't want to spend the time replacing the driver side plugs while I was in there. It had already taken me 2 or 3 days to fix the passenger side so I was tired and didn't feel like wrenching anymore. Cleaned the injectors and replaced all 4 of the COP's on that side as well. Am I paying for my laziness now?
08-14-2016, 12:47 PM
#2
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
No 1 thru 4 are the passenger side
With number 1 being closest to the fan . Don't know your firing order . No '1 failure has been my failure cyl when I tried cheap cop . Thats the only oem orig that I have lost .
Had to stop out of town get auto zone to tell me which one was bad again , Replaced cop boots and plug in the hot parking lot . I have had good luck with the guaranteed autozone one . all others are original .
I always use nickel antiseize on plugs tips . , I always put new boots and springs on them and dialectic grease on boots only both ends , not on metal parts . . I blow out dirt from plug holes . I trickle some carb cleaner in the hole to break up carbon around tip area while they are out .I let enough time go by for carb cleaner to evaporate . I always torque them in about 25 pounds . Right or wrong I use a little antiseize on plug threads .
Replaced all injectors at 100k they cycle a lot and I don't trust them to not break after so many cycles . My mileage is 165k also . If I make 200k I will change them all out again .
I do not trust cheap cops anymore , I don't know their construction or failure point . Don't know if they have any electronics in them . I would guess its just the quality of the core or the insulation between the coils break down and develop a turn to turn short, must be a 30 to 50 kilovolt kick .
Next time I have a failure I will ohm it out and compare values with good one but that might not tell much . Will cut one up one day . If they use silicone steel core it will be hell to cut . Thats the best core stuff . Could be a laminated core also . I wonder if a fouled plug shorting out cop overheats it and damages it . I change plugs before 50k .
I carry a oem spare with me now . I just need to buy a good code reader I guess .
Had to stop out of town get auto zone to tell me which one was bad again , Replaced cop boots and plug in the hot parking lot . I have had good luck with the guaranteed autozone one . all others are original .
I always use nickel antiseize on plugs tips . , I always put new boots and springs on them and dialectic grease on boots only both ends , not on metal parts . . I blow out dirt from plug holes . I trickle some carb cleaner in the hole to break up carbon around tip area while they are out .I let enough time go by for carb cleaner to evaporate . I always torque them in about 25 pounds . Right or wrong I use a little antiseize on plug threads .
Replaced all injectors at 100k they cycle a lot and I don't trust them to not break after so many cycles . My mileage is 165k also . If I make 200k I will change them all out again .
I do not trust cheap cops anymore , I don't know their construction or failure point . Don't know if they have any electronics in them . I would guess its just the quality of the core or the insulation between the coils break down and develop a turn to turn short, must be a 30 to 50 kilovolt kick .
Next time I have a failure I will ohm it out and compare values with good one but that might not tell much . Will cut one up one day . If they use silicone steel core it will be hell to cut . Thats the best core stuff . Could be a laminated core also . I wonder if a fouled plug shorting out cop overheats it and damages it . I change plugs before 50k .
I carry a oem spare with me now . I just need to buy a good code reader I guess .
The following users liked this post:
xMUDKINGx (08-14-2016)