Coolant Confusion
04-07-2016, 11:57 AM
#11
Mark
iTrader: (1)
I flushed my system 2 weeks ago using the Zerex product I mentioned above. My first drain, after having circulated the flush product, left a dark, gritty sediment in the bottom of the bucket. After a few distilled water rinses, there was no more sediment. I know the Zerex flush has some effect, because my initial drain of coolant left no residue in the bottom of the bucket.
04-07-2016, 12:02 PM
#12
Popped the hood during a gasoline fill and opened the radiator overflow.
There is an accumulation of something on the sides of the reservoir - looks a bit like mud - very fine. Not sure of the color - poor lighting - but I am definitely going to flush the cooling system now - I will not wait for the mileage to come up.
What are the opinions on using a bottle of the flush stuff - is that prestone compatible with Gold Coolant?
It seem the Ford Gold Coolant has phosphate and silicates ( that could be the source of the sediment in the reservoir) but it appears the Zerek G05 does not have phosphate/silicates...
any comment on which coolant?
There is an accumulation of something on the sides of the reservoir - looks a bit like mud - very fine. Not sure of the color - poor lighting - but I am definitely going to flush the cooling system now - I will not wait for the mileage to come up.
What are the opinions on using a bottle of the flush stuff - is that prestone compatible with Gold Coolant?
It seem the Ford Gold Coolant has phosphate and silicates ( that could be the source of the sediment in the reservoir) but it appears the Zerek G05 does not have phosphate/silicates...
any comment on which coolant?
04-07-2016, 12:24 PM
#13
Senior Member
I tried to. Without the t-stat in placed, the O-ring had nothing to form a seal against. It got real messy, real fast, so I put the T-stat back in. Hindsight being what it is, I wish I had tried to gut the old t-stat and put it in.
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Toshbar (04-09-2016)
10-27-2016, 12:26 PM
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Finally did the flush. Removed the reservoir - it was quite a task to get it clean - baffled insides etc - soaked it overnight in vinegar and ran a clear plastic tube through baffles to rinse as best I could - got it to look pretty good.
The fluid was rather nasty - glad I changed it. I also pulled hoses and rinsed crud from them also.
I used Zerex flush (once) and then refilled/ran engine/drained with distilled h20 about 4 times - finally got to the point of diminishing returns with regard to cleanness of the drained flush water
- filled with 2.5 gal of Zerex gold and distilled h20
-did not replace t stat
The fluid was rather nasty - glad I changed it. I also pulled hoses and rinsed crud from them also.
I used Zerex flush (once) and then refilled/ran engine/drained with distilled h20 about 4 times - finally got to the point of diminishing returns with regard to cleanness of the drained flush water
- filled with 2.5 gal of Zerex gold and distilled h20
-did not replace t stat
Last edited by red08; 10-28-2016 at 06:31 AM. Reason: typo
10-28-2016, 06:29 AM
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Other may know- I do not - mine is 4.6L. I pulled bottom hose and got some but not a lot of fluid out after final rinse/flush. It gave me enough room(volume) to add 2.5 galls of 100% coolant which is 1/2 its capacity therefore a 50/50 mix.
10-28-2016, 07:00 AM
#17
Senior Member
No, there will still be coolant in the block. Rather than open block drain plugs, I did multiple flushes with distilled water until it ran relatively clean.
10-28-2016, 07:52 PM
#18
Senior Member
Run enough fill and drain cycles until draining runs clear. System holds aprox 5 gallons and will drain out aprox 2.5 gallons (and yes I measured how much drained into a bucket). Then pour 100% Motorcraft Gold into your system and you will get aprox 50/50 mix.
11-02-2016, 12:42 PM
#20
It depends. If it's cracked and beat up, then yes. If not, rock it until it needs replacing. Belt changes aren't too hard on these trucks, so long as you follow the procedures expressed in youtube videos.