Conditioning the black plastic.
#11
Senior Member
#13
12 Second Truck
Back to Black works great. As for a greasy or slick finish...that only happens when you don't go back over it with a dry terry cloth which is per the instructions. Sometimes I do and sometimes I don't.
#16
Senior Member
I would try "Armor-Dillo"...that stuff is ridiculously good...didn't have much luck with the back to black (did nothin on my bed caps) but the armor-dillo started workin on my tail gate but I only had one wipe and it started gettin dry...try that. And also DO NOT let the oxidation get out of hand or you'll have to paint it.
#20
Moderator (Ret.)
When using the Krylon Fusion paints (made specifically for plastic), be sure to buy the prep spray and wipe down the surface before you paint. My buddy skipped this step, painted the bed rail and windshield cowl pieces, and bragged on how well it looked. It did, for about two months, then it began to peal off. I did my bed rails with the same paint, but prepped it first. It's been a year now, and they still look great.
Not a fan of any oily based wipe on treatment, as they just wear out, and it seems that once you apply that stuff, it makes painting the surface afterwards darn near impossiple to get the paint to stick, even with the prep treatment.
And NEVER use a protectant product that's alcohol based, especially on vinyl. Dries it out, and it will crack. All the manufacturures of bed covers will void their warrantee if you use it to protect the vinyl top.
Not a fan of any oily based wipe on treatment, as they just wear out, and it seems that once you apply that stuff, it makes painting the surface afterwards darn near impossiple to get the paint to stick, even with the prep treatment.
And NEVER use a protectant product that's alcohol based, especially on vinyl. Dries it out, and it will crack. All the manufacturures of bed covers will void their warrantee if you use it to protect the vinyl top.
Last edited by Mod (Ret.); 02-15-2010 at 06:36 AM.