krazymonkeys24

Hi guys I have always been a GM fanatic. Never really had much to do with Ford til now but when a dealership offers you a 2005 F-150 Supercab for $10,900 you can't really go wrong lol. So now I am up to the task of learning a completely new game when it comes to performance mods. My first question is on the 4.6 liter engines, are they the same engines as you would see in the newer Mustangs at least as far as block/heads/internals and if not what are the differences? Are the factory heads SOHC 3V like you would see on a similar car engine or OHV? Also, what parts are interchangeable with performance parts? I.E. could I buy and use intake manifolds, heads, etc. that are sold in "Mustang" categories on performance catelogs or do I have to stick with something more specific to the F-150 4.6L engines? Thank you in advance.

krazymonkeys24

Ok, maybe I shouldn't have made it sound like lack of enthusiasm about Fords. It's not that at all just that I have never strayed from what I know. I really have no idea about these trucks and want to learn.

barecove

this may be a better place to look for answers..... https://www.f150forum.com/f11/

obusnizzle

the f150 doesnt get the 3V heads yet. Aside from the manifold, exhaust, and oil pan, its the same as the 99-04 Mustang. So, cams and valvesprings can be used. There are F150 spec headers and tuning requires a flash tuner (SCT Xcal3).

mbrown29

..the new 4.6 in mustangs have 300+ horsepower.. my truck has 230-265. totally different animal. my brother has the 2007 GT and I have the 2004 new body 4.6 f150. you can send me a personal message if you have a question about my 4.6 or his GT

krazymonkeys24

Thanks for responding guys Since the heads are different, then what would it require to put the 3v heads on the 4.6l truck engine and if I did, what kinda drawbacks are there if any? I am figuring on losing quite a bit of low end torque if I were to use the intake manifold but not exactly sure about the heads with the right cam. I figure with the right cam I could make some really nice power to the wheels with gobs of low end torque while still utilizing what I am assuming is alot better flow characteristics on the 3v heads, but you guys know alot more about it than me which is why I am here lol.

obusnizzle

dont bother using the 3V heads. A good set of cams, headers, and a tune will do nicely.

krazymonkeys24

Thanks for all your input. One last question. Anyone done a write-up on cam swaps for these heads? I could always get a haynes manual and go from there but I've noticed that you get better info from people that have done it personally rather than just reading it out of a book. People figure out little tricks to do things easier but manuals generally just give you the factory way of doing it which sometimes isn't the most time efficient way of doing things.

NGM

There are special tools involved in changing the cams. I highly reccomend starting with the basic bolt ons and a tuner.

krazymonkeys24

Well, yea, cam degreeing wheel, feeler gauges, etc. I have done a few OHC sets on smaller engines, so I know basically what I am getting into but some things you have to do by the book and there are other rules you can bend a little. Basically what I need to know is are there any parts, wiring harnesses, etc. that absolutely have to be moved to get the valve covers off and are there any that the FSM or Haynes manual tell you to remove that aren't exactly neccessary if you "hold your mouth just right". There are certain tricks like the rope trick to hold valves in place while you are setting clearances that are much better than what the "professionals" call for such as compressed air or completely removing heads. Come on I know someone here has to have changed them before. What tricks are specific to this truck? BTW if you guys dunno what the rope trick is, it's when you get the cylinder in question to TDC and then insert a decent length piece of 1/4" or so rope, such as a cheap nylon clothes line (the white softer type, not the stiff yellow) into the spark plug hole until you can't fit anymore in. Holds the valves in place really nicely. Especially great for changing valve seals.