Code Alarm remote start install
10-06-2014, 09:55 PM
#1
Code Alarm remote start install
For anyone who is interested.
I just completed installation of a Code Alarm 5053 remote start kit with Ford SecuriLock PATS bypass kit 8L3Z-19G365-BA in my 2006 F150 FX4 with factory keyless entry, and wanted to share the resources I pieced together to get it done. This remote start kit has keyless entry and remote start, but no alarm, so I didnt have to worry about tapping into door switches or wiring shock sensors or anything else too extreme.
First of all, this wasn't a super easy job at all. I have some minor electrical wiring background, and I'm an IT guy, so electronics normally don't scare me. But this one took a lot of research because there is no vehicle specific instructions at all. Once I peiced together which connections I actually needed, and which ones I could ignore, it wasn't too terrible, but I still had plenty of times I felt quite lost. Its also a pretty good pain in the rear to get at all the wires, re-route them, and tuck them up nice and neat in a cramped space.
Alas, after all my research, this is the wire mapping I came up with:
http://1drv.ms/1pF82sg
Here are a couple of the resources I used to create the wire mapping:
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagr...8&link=Bulldog
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/....asp?TID=98709
And this helped confirm how I needed to wire up the ford PATS bypass module:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...asp?TID=124655
And when I had trouble locating the right wires to tap into for door lock/unlock:
http://www.f150online.com/forums/ele...estions-2.html
And this is where you get the pink/green and pink/yellow wires for door unlock/lock, down in the wire track (NOT the pink/green or pink/yellow going into the green connector about 8 inches higher up...):
With the kick panel removed you have access to the ignition wires and the horn:
I mounted the Ford PATS bypass and the Code Alarm module high on the kick panel under the dash, and there was enough wire to run the little transponder ring all the way over to the key cylinder. Here you can see the ring installed around the key cylinder and wires ran down the steering column, which join up to the other remote start wiring and route all the way back to the drivers side kick panel area:
I'm quite happy with the Code Alarm kit. I think my only complaints is that I wish the keyless worked exactly like the stock keyless. By that I mean I didn't wire up a priority door unlock (which unlocks drivers door only on first unlock, then the passenger door on the second unlock), and I noticed that if I lock the doors with the code alarm keyless it doesnt auto-dim the interior lights, it leaves them on to time-out after x number of seconds. I neglected to tap into the interior illumination circuits so this behavior may be because of that. But other than that, it works great.
Bring on winter!
I just completed installation of a Code Alarm 5053 remote start kit with Ford SecuriLock PATS bypass kit 8L3Z-19G365-BA in my 2006 F150 FX4 with factory keyless entry, and wanted to share the resources I pieced together to get it done. This remote start kit has keyless entry and remote start, but no alarm, so I didnt have to worry about tapping into door switches or wiring shock sensors or anything else too extreme.
First of all, this wasn't a super easy job at all. I have some minor electrical wiring background, and I'm an IT guy, so electronics normally don't scare me. But this one took a lot of research because there is no vehicle specific instructions at all. Once I peiced together which connections I actually needed, and which ones I could ignore, it wasn't too terrible, but I still had plenty of times I felt quite lost. Its also a pretty good pain in the rear to get at all the wires, re-route them, and tuck them up nice and neat in a cramped space.
Alas, after all my research, this is the wire mapping I came up with:
http://1drv.ms/1pF82sg
Here are a couple of the resources I used to create the wire mapping:
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagr...8&link=Bulldog
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/....asp?TID=98709
And this helped confirm how I needed to wire up the ford PATS bypass module:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...asp?TID=124655
And when I had trouble locating the right wires to tap into for door lock/unlock:
http://www.f150online.com/forums/ele...estions-2.html
And this is where you get the pink/green and pink/yellow wires for door unlock/lock, down in the wire track (NOT the pink/green or pink/yellow going into the green connector about 8 inches higher up...):
With the kick panel removed you have access to the ignition wires and the horn:
I mounted the Ford PATS bypass and the Code Alarm module high on the kick panel under the dash, and there was enough wire to run the little transponder ring all the way over to the key cylinder. Here you can see the ring installed around the key cylinder and wires ran down the steering column, which join up to the other remote start wiring and route all the way back to the drivers side kick panel area:
I'm quite happy with the Code Alarm kit. I think my only complaints is that I wish the keyless worked exactly like the stock keyless. By that I mean I didn't wire up a priority door unlock (which unlocks drivers door only on first unlock, then the passenger door on the second unlock), and I noticed that if I lock the doors with the code alarm keyless it doesnt auto-dim the interior lights, it leaves them on to time-out after x number of seconds. I neglected to tap into the interior illumination circuits so this behavior may be because of that. But other than that, it works great.
Bring on winter!
10-07-2014, 01:46 PM
#2
Senior Member
Looks good! I'm also in IT haha. The only difference is I soldered vs. T-Tap's... personal thing but I'm just not a fan of T-Tap's. The only other recommendation I make is ensure the bypass module isn't permanently powered, it should be grounded usually by the "ground while running" wire from the remote start otherwise you throw your chipped key security out the window (it's always bypassed). The code alarm instructions should have correctly shown that though, especially during the programming sequence so that shouldn't be an issue for you.
As for the door locks/unlocks, I agree... I run a Compustar and wired in the dome light wire and you can add driver priority unlock but you have to go directly to the door. It's getting easier (well, debatable I guess haha) on some of the new modules where the bypass module performs the unlocking/locking through the computer now instead of you having to tap into wires. I did a GMC not long ago and the bypass module activated the dome lights and kept the priority unlock without having to tap directly into the lock/unlock wires.
Mine's a 2005... if you don't want to wipers to activate during remote start (if you have snow there), disconnect the accessory line (or pull the fuse on your remote start to accessory). The heater and such will run, but the wipers won't go on if you've mistakenly left them on (especially if you get heavy snow and remote start in the morning). Also, I've added a relay into my CD player to cut the deck out during remote start. I didn't want it playing music during remote start but most importantly was if my phone was in range, it'll pair up and I'd forget, or if it was out of range when the deck powered up it wouldn't pair and I'd manually have to do that. Now my phone pairs every time.
I agree though, they're not fun jobs to do... I'll only do them for close family or friends.
Just thought I'd share that though.
As for the door locks/unlocks, I agree... I run a Compustar and wired in the dome light wire and you can add driver priority unlock but you have to go directly to the door. It's getting easier (well, debatable I guess haha) on some of the new modules where the bypass module performs the unlocking/locking through the computer now instead of you having to tap into wires. I did a GMC not long ago and the bypass module activated the dome lights and kept the priority unlock without having to tap directly into the lock/unlock wires.
Mine's a 2005... if you don't want to wipers to activate during remote start (if you have snow there), disconnect the accessory line (or pull the fuse on your remote start to accessory). The heater and such will run, but the wipers won't go on if you've mistakenly left them on (especially if you get heavy snow and remote start in the morning). Also, I've added a relay into my CD player to cut the deck out during remote start. I didn't want it playing music during remote start but most importantly was if my phone was in range, it'll pair up and I'd forget, or if it was out of range when the deck powered up it wouldn't pair and I'd manually have to do that. Now my phone pairs every time.
I agree though, they're not fun jobs to do... I'll only do them for close family or friends.
Just thought I'd share that though.
Last edited by homer; 10-07-2014 at 01:52 PM.
10-08-2014, 07:44 AM
#3
I agree, soldering is a lot better, I give you respect for that because this job was a big enough pain to twist and turn and reach on with the quick slice connectors, let alone get in there with a soldering iron!
The 5053 kit has a "databus" connector on it, but I couldn't find any info on whether that could be tapped into the F150's databus, or if we even have one in the 2006 models.
The 5053 kit has a "databus" connector on it, but I couldn't find any info on whether that could be tapped into the F150's databus, or if we even have one in the 2006 models.