BadFish523

People are just trying to help you. They're also trying to same you another large sum of money by trying to get you to fix the real problem. Putting a Bandaide on the problem will only cost you more money than fixing it the first time. Again everyone is just trying to help you out the right way.

jav1

Yes- and Ford OEM phasers, Ford VCT solenoids and Ford racing high volume oil pump. I didn't cheap out nor am I refusing to fix the real issue. BUT- I've not been able to identify the real issue as of yet.

What data do you recommend I get?

tcp2

I have a custom tune from 5star. 87 perf/tow tune. It originally came with the idle sitting at 700rpm. Stock is 525rpm (monitored via my hard wired scan gauge). 700 seemed a bit high so I requested a rewrite with idle at 600rpm and slightly lower transmission shift points. I've been running that tune for about 35k miles and it's perfect for me.

The SCT tuner can adjust the idle where you want. I also run 0w40 oil year round and my engine has no phaser noises and runs perfectly. While Ford specs 5w20 oil in North America for the 3valve 5.4l, it was originally spec'd for 5w30 and 10w40 in Australia when it was released there in the Falcon years before it arrived here. I would suggest a quality pao based oil, Mobil 0w40 or castrol 0w40, if you don't want to go boutique(redline, amsoil, etc) and see what it does.
Your crappy idle is quite probably phaser pins not relocating and can come about from somewhat worn bearings, or other places that have looser tolerances with age the keeps oil pressure low at the stock idle. The cost of an oil change is cheap and will give you the answer very quickly. Plenty of 3valves see fleet 15w40 oil through their lives in the f250s and f350s of years ago. They do just fine.

EBC-150

I actually run my idle at 725 RPM (via the gryphon tuner). Not as a bandaid as my truck only has 50K miles on it, but to help the AC and alternator perform better. I run a high amp alternator, but still noticed the lights dimming with the stereo going. The higher idle oil pressure is a plus too, IMO. I've read that Ford has the idle so low to help milk every last bit of MPG's out of the truck, same goes for the lighter weight oil...

jav1

Thank you TCP & EBC!

I understand regarding the oil viscosity and that's my best guess as to the real source of the problem (not viscosity but wear and clearances interacting with vicosity). I just received my precision full sweep gauge and my plan is to install it with the 5w20 oil I have now and record cold and hot pressures. I'm hoping I see some correlation between pressures and the symptoms. I'll likely then try 5w40 and see what impact that has on pressures and symptoms.

Either way- I'd like to raise the idle a little regardless... I think 525 is just a bit low and an extra 100-125 RPM should help idle oil pressure and alternator output.

EBC- I have very little experience with tuner but did see an edge tuner with gryphon installed in the classified section. Care to provide a laymans description of that?

jshillin

iTrader: (1)

Grab a used edge or gryphon like I stated above. Gryphon is basically a software upgrade over the Edge. Lot's a threads on that subject with step by step instructions. It works great.

elricfate

I run my Gryphon at 50 over idle. The only way you're going to raise the idle is with a tuner.

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

I was referring to reading live data as far as oil psi at idle vs throttle. As for the metal tensioners, this was posted in the final repair guide thread (concerning the gasket that comes with the metal tensioners)
"They are "Sturdy as hell" and fit my 2004 5.4L 3v just fine. The thin metal gasket set that comes with them could not be used because the oil passage from the block doesn't align properly with the gasket - but the tensioner casting itself has a passageway routed to the correct location. I mounted them directly to the block and THEY WORK FINE. The tensioner plunger seats perfectly in the center of the spot on the inside of the tensioner arm."

I am wondering if you used the thin metal gaskets that came with the metal tensioners (which would block oil flow and be more noticeable at idle).

jav1

On my cast iron tensioners- there was no gasket. All my reading indicated direct mount- no gasket and I turned the engine over under power to prime the oil system. Both tensioners pressurized and shot oil onto the chains through the pee hole.

Also- you do realize there is no factory PID for oil pressure psi... right? There is no live data for that because our trucks don't have oil pressure transducers- just an oil pressure switch.

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

No, I was not aware of that as I have never had oil pressure issues on a 3valve 5.4. I was just trying to help out. I won't answer any more of your threads.