Chain Slap and Phasers Video Question
11-05-2014, 02:16 AM
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yea, I had to use the open end part of the wrench on the bottom bolt, tried to put the box end on and got it stuck for a few minutes. Using the open end, I was able to get that bolt loosened and just had to keep loosening the top 2 bolts as well and kind sliding the pump away from the block to keep room to get the bottom bolt out. If you try removing the pulley, hopefully you have better luck than me, I tried with 2 different pullers and my pulley was not coming off. Even put a impact gun on the tool and no joy. Ended up leaving it on and just going at the bolts. Good luck.
Tom
Tom
Also mine came off with the puller, i think my truck has been into once before. They werent the factory chains from what i could tell
Last edited by MHOWELL34; 11-05-2014 at 02:19 AM.
11-05-2014, 07:52 AM
#22
Senior Member
If you think that these parts of been replaced before, then I highly suggest dropping the oil pan now and making sure the oil pump pick up screen isn't clogged with broken peices of an old chain guide. If it is, then the motor will not have proper oil pressure and you'll have to do this job again, and this increases the likelihood that other parts of the motor will fail.
11-05-2014, 10:55 AM
#23
Senior Member
Thread Starter
If you think that these parts of been replaced before, then I highly suggest dropping the oil pan now and making sure the oil pump pick up screen isn't clogged with broken peices of an old chain guide. If it is, then the motor will not have proper oil pressure and you'll have to do this job again, and this increases the likelihood that other parts of the motor will fail.
11-05-2014, 11:12 AM
#24
Senior Member
Ok, I was assuming the previous owner replaced the chains and guides also. May concern was if the original guides were broken and clogging the pick up. If the guides were not replaced, and you can find all the pieces, I wouldn't be too concerned.
And yes, they could have replaced just the phasers. From what I've read, that was the recommendation a few years ago, when the phaser issue first started appearing. The previous owner probably replaced the phasers, but not the tensioners or anything else. But since the tensioner seal was shot, it was only a matter of time before the new phasers started making noise. Just because the phasers look good on the outside, doesn't mean they are good on the inside.
And yes, they could have replaced just the phasers. From what I've read, that was the recommendation a few years ago, when the phaser issue first started appearing. The previous owner probably replaced the phasers, but not the tensioners or anything else. But since the tensioner seal was shot, it was only a matter of time before the new phasers started making noise. Just because the phasers look good on the outside, doesn't mean they are good on the inside.
11-05-2014, 06:29 PM
#25
Senior Member
Glad to hear its working out. Yea, when I did mine, I found that someone had been in my engine before, drivers side head had obviously been replaced. Figured that out when the cam caps did not have any markings on them, talked to my neighbor, who is a ford service manager and he looked at it and said that head had been replaced. My phasers didn't really look bad either but, just to be sure, I changed those out with everything else. Did you do your lash adjusters as well or only the timing components? Keep up the good work.
Tom
Tom
11-06-2014, 02:42 AM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Just the phasers, Chains, and guides, Everything up top seemed good, no discolor or slack. My tensioner blew, causing the low pressure, which caused the guide to shatter im guessing, thats what the evidence shows me.
Check out this slack
New ones installed
Blown tensioner and broke chain guide
Put passenger side cover one, which was still a pain, but alot easier without timing cover
Current project status, New Driver side valve cover with a fresh no sludge PCV vent is on and sealed up. (Hopefully)
Passenger side will be finished tomorrow when i get my new vct solenoid in.... kind of broke the other one that was already new.. lol. I hope she's running soon.
Check out this slack
New ones installed
Blown tensioner and broke chain guide
Put passenger side cover one, which was still a pain, but alot easier without timing cover
Current project status, New Driver side valve cover with a fresh no sludge PCV vent is on and sealed up. (Hopefully)
Passenger side will be finished tomorrow when i get my new vct solenoid in.... kind of broke the other one that was already new.. lol. I hope she's running soon.
Last edited by MHOWELL34; 11-06-2014 at 02:46 AM.
11-06-2014, 08:33 PM
#28
Senior Member
MHOWELL thanks for posting up all the pics.... Been interesting following this thread.
11-06-2014, 10:04 PM
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Shes sputtering and acting crazy. Keeps saying cam position sensor A circuit bank 2 error code PO345, did i jump time on startup? I turned it over a couple times by hand and it didnt seem like it was gonna slip. I just replaced the stupid sensor by warranty and its still saying the same...It will stop shaking about 1500 rpm
Also a odd thing, If i unplug the sensors, it runs and idles bad, if i plug in driver side it cranks, if i plug in just passenger it wont crank, I guess it relys on bank 1 for a signal?? Either way i replaced it because i thought it was faulty and its still not working out.
Guessing im gonna have to crack her open again, No matter if i switch sensors around its still bank 2.
Video of what its doing coming up
Last edited by MHOWELL34; 11-06-2014 at 10:13 PM.
11-06-2014, 10:14 PM
#30
Senior Member
Uh-oh. Have you checked the wiring? Also, was the code there before? I didn't see it in this thread. And what about the crank sensor? Did you plug it back in, and did you install the crank shaft reluctor ring?