Notch46

Paided just under $200. Like $50-60 for the rotors and $75-80 for the pads.

tomb1269

FYI - most of the warping, i.e. pulsing felt due to rotor warp, is due to improper lug torque. If you or the shop are over torquing your lugs the first heavey heat cycle will cause the rotor to warp slightly and produce that light pulse felt in moderate breaking. I always set my lugs at 100psi with a torque wrench. Adn those torque bar extension used at the shop are useless particularly when the guy operating the air gun lets it sit and rap on the lug, and then grabs a torque bar to torque the lugs.... All he is doing is confirming that they are torqued on at or above spec. One reason when I get home I tend to loosen all the lugs and torque them to spec.

Tradesman

I have AP Racing rotors and Hawk Ceramic pads up front. All original OEM in the back, at least for now. My rotors are cross drilled and slotted, without any cracks or any warping. These are made in England by a company that has Formula 1, LeMans and GT1/GT2/GT3 racing heritage. These are not cheap *** offshore made rotors that everyone complains about failing prematurely. I tow an 8,000lb trailer on a [b]daily basis[/b and these are fantastic brakes.

https://www.f150forum.com/f4/front-b...pgrade-158473/

A lot of people complain about premature failure on brake rotors due to cross drilling and/or slotted rotors. It all boils down to the manufacturer. First off, there are a lot of knockoff parts around. Like many people said before, if you can find knockoff parts on President of the United States' helicopter, then you can find them on your car. Same thing with brake parts. Second of all, the best quality brake rotors cost a lot. There is no way around this. They are manufactured under strict conditions and are tested and stamped. My AP Racing rotors are actually custom as they do not have them for Ford F-150s, so mine even came with serial numbers engraved on the rotor. Finally, proper bed-in procedure must be done otherwise the rotors will fail prematurely. Most owners do not know how to properly bed in their brakes and don't even bother with it. If you're putting time, money and effort to get your brakes done then what's it worth to properly bed-in your brakes?

Hope this helps anyone out there make an informed choice on their brake selection. As I mentioned I run AP Racing cross drilled and slotted rotors on the front of my F-150 and on all four corners of my Ram 1500. I have Hawk Ceramics on the front of my F-150 and EBC RedStuff on all four corners of my Ram 1500. I tow a heavy trailer daily. I have put 30,000km on my F-150 since I did the brakes last year and I have put on about 80,000km on my Ram 1500 since I upgraded the brakes three years ago. I do a brake inspection twice a year and on my Ram 1500 all the rotors are still true and have no uneven wear, pitting, corrosion or glazing. Proper bed-in procedure was done on both vehicles.

people call me jim

Man I feel dumb but could you tell me what bed in procedure is.

dereku

Ebc yellow are just as dusty as oem. But its worth it they stop great.

I just don't know

I would have to see that for sure. I've heard that they are far less dusty. Do you own a set?

dereku

Yes i do. Ebcs website even says it. I have green in the rear and those make no dust at all. And yellows in the front and they make a normal amount of dust. But its an oem amount nothing super excessive. But they stop so well paired with ebc rotors I cant complain.

MikeyDubs

What's the difference between the WBC yellow and green? The green are better right?

I just don't know

Ok. I haven't looked into them too much because i still have great breaks. Ya my oem breaks barely make any dust because your front breaks do more breaking than the rear. I just want a good dustless break but I don't think that will happen even with a good ceramic pad. Simple because its a heavy truck and and my wheels and tired are heavy. That's pretty good to know about the EBC's.

dereku

Yellow are better. They are designed for towing or light track use.