dan5993

2005 4.2l V6 5sp manual RWD.

I am a bad man and haven't touched the brakes in 70,000 miles. I decided it was time finally so I bought a complete set of pads and rotors from brakemotive. I got all the tools I need to finish the job, like a 36mm socket and a pair of replacement spindle nuts.

Everything went fine until I got to the two nuts holding on the bracket for the brake caliper. No matter what I did I could not get it off. I can't replace the rotor unless I get the bracket off. Is there a trick to it?
Do I need to use a torch to heat it up, or get an 18mm wrench and hit it with a hammer?

if I get it off, I think this nut needs to be torqued to like 200lbs. How in the world can I get that? It's not in a particularly accessible area.

any pro tips would be appreciated, thanks

nrivera04

I just used a wrench and 4lb maul. Maybe let soak with a little penetrating oil. Shouldn't be a real hassle.

As for putting back together, OE spec is 295ft lbs for the spindle nut, but most torque wrenches only goto 250 (which I was assured by a trusted mech, that 250 was fine).

dan5993

im not worried about the spindle nut, I can reach that with my breaker bar. I'm talking about the bolts that holds the brake caliper bracket on. The bolts face the engine and are inside the wheel well behind the rotor. Not a lot of room and they are loctited on. I let the front right one sit overnight with a bunch of liquid wrench and was still unable to get it off. There isn't room for a breaker bar in there

redfishtd

The main nut is 295 pounds , I have a 300 pound torque wrench that covers that . Borrow one .
The caliper bolt can be removed with some pb blaster and by slipping a piece of pipe over your 3/8 breaker bar for leverage . Other wise known as a cheater bar, I always have various size pipes for this . Make sure you use the right size six point socket for the head and no 12 point sockets as they will round off to easy . I always use anti seize when re- installing .
Get pipes from scrap yard or home depot . I have some 12- 16inch , some 24 inch . Take it easy on ratchets doing this as you can ruin them .
Give pb blaster time to work . This kind of pressure can wring heads off . Some times giving a little pressure towards tightening, then towards un helps . Make sure you don't really get on it in the wrong direction , even experience guys screw up now and then . Its easy to do since you are facing the bolt backwards .

nrivera04

Turn the wheel left/right and it should give you enough room to get your breaker bar in there. I broke mine a while back and never replaced it so I've just been using my box end wrenches on caliper brackets.

The biggest issue is likely going to be getting the rotor off the spindle. There's a bunch of youtube videos that will help you out when you get to that step.

redfishtd

With the cheater pipes you can vary the length of the rig . 3/8 bar is nice for tight spaces, and 3/8 to 1/2 adapter is handy . . . A 1/2 to 3/4 adapter is nice as a lot of big sockets are 3/4.
I like to pick up the cheap sets of impact sockets as they are six point and strong . See harbor freight etc.

jshillin

iTrader: (1)

I just pulled them on my buddies crusty '04 on Thursday. I just use a 12" 3/8" ratchet. I've used longer ratchets and my 3/8" impact on other vehicles in the past, but on mine and my buddies just a 3/8" ratchet.

redfishtd

He didn't say blue or red . Red is a real problem . I think you have to heat red .
I never use red .