Blower Motor Out - Dummy Needs Help
#1
Blower Motor Out - Dummy Needs Help
Couple days ago the blower motor started kicking on after about 30-60 seconds. ??
Then it quit completely. Nothing on any fan setting. There's has been a rare occasional light clicking sound under the glovebox area the last couple days.
Searched the net for info and there's tons about replacing the resistor including great Youtube videos but nothing great in pics/advice on changing out the blower.
2008 F-150 XLT
Read the title.... dummy language for a non-mechanical person welcomed.
Thanks ahead of time.
Then it quit completely. Nothing on any fan setting. There's has been a rare occasional light clicking sound under the glovebox area the last couple days.
Searched the net for info and there's tons about replacing the resistor including great Youtube videos but nothing great in pics/advice on changing out the blower.
2008 F-150 XLT
Read the title.... dummy language for a non-mechanical person welcomed.
Thanks ahead of time.
#2
Senior Member
go to Advance Auto part or O'reilly Auto Parts. Ask for a Haynes or Chiltons auto repair manual for your year and make truck.
Invite a buddy who has mechanical abillity over for a beer and go through the manuals with him. We will answer questions for you.
good luck. If it is too intimidating take it to the shop
Invite a buddy who has mechanical abillity over for a beer and go through the manuals with him. We will answer questions for you.
good luck. If it is too intimidating take it to the shop
#3
Senior Member
The blower is easy to pull out, literally unplug the connector and 3 bolts. The hardest part is getting at the rear bolt. I also siliconed mine as it's common for cold air at your feet (especially passenger) while driving which made a night and day difference.
The resistor board when blown will usually lock out a few or ALL of the 1-3 settings (depends if the board partially fails or fully fails - usually fully). If you put the fan speed to full or 4 and it's not working, that bypasses the resistor board eliminating that as a possibility. At that point check fuses and blower motor (or voltage to blower motor).
The resistor board when blown will usually lock out a few or ALL of the 1-3 settings (depends if the board partially fails or fully fails - usually fully). If you put the fan speed to full or 4 and it's not working, that bypasses the resistor board eliminating that as a possibility. At that point check fuses and blower motor (or voltage to blower motor).
#4
The blower is easy to pull out, literally unplug the connector and 3 bolts. The hardest part is getting at the rear bolt. I also siliconed mine as it's common for cold air at your feet (especially passenger) while driving which made a night and day difference.
The resistor board when blown will usually lock out a few or ALL of the 1-3 settings (depends if the board partially fails or fully fails - usually fully). If you put the fan speed to full or 4 and it's not working, that bypasses the resistor board eliminating that as a possibility. At that point check fuses and blower motor (or voltage to blower motor).
The resistor board when blown will usually lock out a few or ALL of the 1-3 settings (depends if the board partially fails or fully fails - usually fully). If you put the fan speed to full or 4 and it's not working, that bypasses the resistor board eliminating that as a possibility. At that point check fuses and blower motor (or voltage to blower motor).
I forgot to mention the AC won't kick in, no compressor sound when the dash button is engaged. Possible relay switch?? Would that effect both the blower and A/C ?
Is the relay/fuses behind the passenger kick panel?
Resources are minimal and expensive around my neck of the woods so trying to get as much info as possible here.
#5
Senior Member
I'll get you the wiring diagram shortly. You should still hear the compressor kicking in as the belt is still turning just no blower motor working. I'll post the diagram in a few here
#6
Pulled the blower out tonight after work.
Three 8mm bolts. Small ratchet got the front two easy. Back one was very tight squeeze.
It's tucked right up under the passenger side of the dashboard to the right for any dummies like me that stumble across this thread in the future and are researching the subject. Once the screws were out just a matter of slowly wiggling it out of there.
I'll have it tested tomorrow before dumping money on a new one.
One interesting/frustrating item in my journey was the F150 owners manual for a 2008. It says the fuse box is under the instrument cluster. They tell you to remove the trim panel to access it. ????
It's behind the passenger side kick plate. Plastic panel pulls right off.
Three 8mm bolts. Small ratchet got the front two easy. Back one was very tight squeeze.
It's tucked right up under the passenger side of the dashboard to the right for any dummies like me that stumble across this thread in the future and are researching the subject. Once the screws were out just a matter of slowly wiggling it out of there.
I'll have it tested tomorrow before dumping money on a new one.
One interesting/frustrating item in my journey was the F150 owners manual for a 2008. It says the fuse box is under the instrument cluster. They tell you to remove the trim panel to access it. ????
It's behind the passenger side kick plate. Plastic panel pulls right off.
#7
The story continues..
Yep.. blower was dead. Putting in a new one tomorrow morning. Hope it's not too cold when I get up.
Here's a Youtube video of removal for novices like me that someone may find useful in the future.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2w2C...ature=youtu.be
Yep.. blower was dead. Putting in a new one tomorrow morning. Hope it's not too cold when I get up.
Here's a Youtube video of removal for novices like me that someone may find useful in the future.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2w2C...ature=youtu.be
Last edited by wildhawk; 01-30-2015 at 06:10 PM.
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#8
Mission accomplished.
The back bolt is hard to remove/replace even with a small rachet. I stuck a allen wrench that fit tight in the bottom of the 8mm socket and though it was slow going the frustration level was reduced.
Hopefully someone like me with little mechanical skill that has the same issue will find this thread helpful in the future. $50 vs. who know what a dealer/shop would charge.
The back bolt is hard to remove/replace even with a small rachet. I stuck a allen wrench that fit tight in the bottom of the 8mm socket and though it was slow going the frustration level was reduced.
Hopefully someone like me with little mechanical skill that has the same issue will find this thread helpful in the future. $50 vs. who know what a dealer/shop would charge.