Blinking Engine Light After Heavy Acceleration
06-27-2010, 09:19 AM
#23
Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: conroe texas
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
06 f150 5.4l im looking at the autolight ht15 plugs and the acell xoils from jegs or summit racing there cheaper and more performance any one have any issues with theses or ever tried these how did they work or not work thanks
06-27-2010, 05:05 PM
#24
Mods are Addictive
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dexter, MI
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well......all 8 of mine broke. Followed the TSB to the Tee. So IDK....I got 5 of them out with the Lisle tool. But I can't get the tool to bite into the other three. Seems like the tool is already undersized from the other 5. Just towed it to the dealer
. Hope they can get them with their Rotunda tool. Cylinders 2,4,& 8. Wonder how much this will cost me? 
. Hope they can get them with their Rotunda tool. Cylinders 2,4,& 8. Wonder how much this will cost me?
06-27-2010, 07:49 PM
#25
my 06 5.4L does that, i was thinking i need an aftermarket intake since i have a programmer, but its my OBD2/ emissions light that flashes... does it at 5000rpms for 10-30 secs than its gone. i ran the code on with my preditor and it said restrictied airflow.....
06-29-2010, 11:16 AM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Peru, NE currently
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did the CAI on my truck and then I started having the same problem with shuttering and blinking engine light. I got the edge programmer about a month later to see if that fixed it but I still ended up with the same problem, but i got codes for something with the throttle body, so I cleaned my throttle body and I also installed a flowmaster system and have not had a problem since. So doing one of those two solved my problem.
06-29-2010, 09:40 PM
#27
Mods are Addictive
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dexter, MI
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, the dealership got them out. Makes me wonder how nice the Rotunda tool is. Anyway, they extracted 3 three plugs and cleaned out the cylinders. Put it all back together....$332.
Better than $2000 to pull both heads.
Truck runs great!
Better than $2000 to pull both heads.
Truck runs great!
07-06-2010, 04:36 AM
#28
So, 2 times in the last week, when I mash the go pedal to A) get on the freeway, and B) today, pass a fuel tanker, when it get to about 4 grand, it starts shaking bad, and the engine light starts blinking for about a half a mile. It runs really rough the whole time the light is blinking. Then, the light goes away, and it runs normal again. I bought my truck in Dec of 2007 with 32,000 miles, it now has 92,000 and I have not be able to afford any of the maintenance due to loosing my job a while ago. So, is there any ideas what's going on? If I take it to a place with a code reader, and the light is not on, will it still say whats wrong? This is the newest vehicle Ive owned, and I dont understand the computer stuff!
Dan
Dan
I had the same problem on my truck recently.. I took it to Autozone to get my codes read but nothing... the problem later on came out to be my cats were going bad @ 58,XXX .... got them both replaced at the dealership for free (every FORD truck owner has a warranty of up to 6yrs or 80,000miles for their exhaust system if not modified, no matter if you didn't buy the truck new) ...the techs from the dealership told me that due to the cats failing it would make the engine misfire, mine was on cyl 4, which made the truck run rough.. then normal again.
07-06-2010, 07:59 AM
#29
Born On a Mountain Top...
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Cleveland, MS
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah you have to be careful with the misfires. Completely melted my cats and puts more strain on the engine when they're stopped up, causing more coil problems...
07-06-2010, 10:48 AM
#30
Finally got the lisle tool and changed out the plugs and replaced them with Autolite ht15 plugs saturday. 6 out of the 8 broke. The whole change took 9 hours, but they are all in. Taking the battery out and the computer/bracket really helps. Still had a small misfire that I had Ford take care of under warrenty. Ended up to be a bad coil on the #5 cylinder. They were shocked that I did them myself. If they would've did the plugs, I was looking at a $1000 bill. The tech working on my truck just got back from a class on this spark plug problem and said they are leaning more on air guns to jolt the plugs loose to get that initial crack between the electro shield and the walls of the heads. If that misfire is still there I would check a coil before a plug, but man does it run nice and smooth with the new plugs in.