badincite

What's the best way to keep the timing correct when replacing the chain? In the process of doing the phasers, chain, guides, tensioners, etc replacement. I am about to remove the timing cover today and put all the new stuff on and don't wanna have to pull this thing back apart.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

There's a nice youtube video on how to make everything...

Martian

If you're replacing EVERYTHING, then why are you worried about it? Just put the colored links on the proper marks on the crank and cam sprockets and you'll be fine. They won't skip time if you install the tensioners.

badincite

Ah didn't even realize there were marks I haven't opened up the boxes yet. The stock chain doesn't have any colors that I can see on it. So the phasers are only able to mount to the cam one way? Right now I have the motor sitting at TDC.



And after installing everything you have to prime the oil system right so timing doesn't skip? And you can do this by holding to the gas to the floor I've read correct?

vintageman

^yes, hold the pedal down and crank for about 10 seconds, do this 3 or 4 times to build pressure. The chains have a 2 colored link that the arrow on the phasers point between and a colored link or dot (can't remember which one right now) that lines up with a mark on the crank sprocket. Line the crank sprocket and chain first, then place the chain on the phaser in the proper position and slide it on the cam, you may have to have a pair of vice grips on a non-journaled lobe on the cam to slightly turn it some for the pins to line up right on the phaser and cam, shouldn't be much of a turn though. Install a new phaser bolt and torque properly.

Martian

Also remember the left side of the engine is the DRIVER'S side, not your left, so make sure you're lining up the sprockets' L and R marks correctly and not 180 degrees off.

badincite

Yeah I got everything off did ford change the cam phaser spring size on the newer revisions?

badincite

Anyway I followed this video .

I had everything set and the tensioners on and the retaining clips removed. It all looked perfect so I manually rotated the motor around once with compression "didnt have the spark plugs loosened like the video". When it reached back to where I was timing was off it jumped teeth should I not have done it that way? I figured rotating it like that would be the same as holding the gas to the floor to prime it.

vintageman

Once you have the colored links set, and the retaining pins on the tensioners removed, you rotate the engine by hand a couple full revolutions to check for any binding or piston valve contact. The colored links will not line up once you rotate it unless you go around fully about a hundred times (really can't remember how many rotations) because the size of the crank sprocket and the phaser sprocket or something like that. Normally, you are off by about 2 links each rotation.
If all links were lined up properly to begin with and the engine was in time with the cam lobes facing the right direction, you should be good. You still need to hold the gas pedal down like described above when you go to start the vehicle to build up oil pressure. Let us know how it goes.
Tom

vintageman

One (and probably more things as I remember) more thing, when you go to install your VCT solenoids, spray them down with throttle body cleaner good and check the screens to make sure that they are there. Then dip them in clean oil before reinstalling. I forgot to do this and had a P0012 code, pulled them, cleaned them, reinstalled in opposite banks to see if code followed, good to go since last year.
Tom