Bed tie down loops
02-13-2011, 11:11 AM
#1
Bed tie down loops
Does any body have any Idea how much weight the bed tie down loops can hold I need to hoist a large ATV on my truck by my self I was thinking of running a chain across the two front loops then using a come along to pull the ATV up the raps... Yea I know sounds like something on Americas funniest home vidio... but I think if they can hold about 250 each it should work... P.S. the ATV is not running or we would have something else to watch on AFV....
02-13-2011, 11:48 AM
#2
Just an idea as to what I have done in the past... I have two ramps that use for my snowblower and bikes.
My fear was that the ramps would slide out from under the truck when loading things off an on... so I went to Home Depot and purchased a 20inch piece of cable, adjustable loop locks, and "S" Connector and some vacuum line.
I'll try and post some pictures later today if I get some time... but here is what you do.
1. loop the cable thru the ramps and tighten it down with a set of loop locks. The lenght of the cable will vary depending on the location on the ramp and heigh of the truck
2. loop the other end of the cable thru the "S" Connector (do NOT tighten down at this time.
3. put the ramp on the tailgate of the truck where it will normally be
4. connect & secure the "S" connector UNDER the rear bumper of the truck...leaving a little slack so that can remove the ramp when you need to.
5. NOW you can secure the loop lock on the "S" Connector and tighten down as needed.
6. to AVOID damaging the underside of the bumper... get a piece of vacuum hose and cut a slice down the lenght of it... (NOT IN HALF), just one side of it... and slide it over the newly made cable.
7. secure the vacuum line with wire ties and you are done.
So the final procedure should be... put the ramp on the tailgate overhanging slightly....reach under and secuire the "S" connector to the underside of the bumper....and slide the ramp backwards to its final location... the cable will become taunt and the ramp will be unable to slide off the back of the tailgate.
To remove the ramp.. lift it slightly....advance it forward on the tailgate slightly....reach under and remove the "S" connector from the underside of the bumper and the ramp should be released fully...
Hope this helps... and I will post pictures later when I get a chance...
My fear was that the ramps would slide out from under the truck when loading things off an on... so I went to Home Depot and purchased a 20inch piece of cable, adjustable loop locks, and "S" Connector and some vacuum line.
I'll try and post some pictures later today if I get some time... but here is what you do.
1. loop the cable thru the ramps and tighten it down with a set of loop locks. The lenght of the cable will vary depending on the location on the ramp and heigh of the truck
2. loop the other end of the cable thru the "S" Connector (do NOT tighten down at this time.
3. put the ramp on the tailgate of the truck where it will normally be
4. connect & secure the "S" connector UNDER the rear bumper of the truck...leaving a little slack so that can remove the ramp when you need to.
5. NOW you can secure the loop lock on the "S" Connector and tighten down as needed.
6. to AVOID damaging the underside of the bumper... get a piece of vacuum hose and cut a slice down the lenght of it... (NOT IN HALF), just one side of it... and slide it over the newly made cable.
7. secure the vacuum line with wire ties and you are done.
So the final procedure should be... put the ramp on the tailgate overhanging slightly....reach under and secuire the "S" connector to the underside of the bumper....and slide the ramp backwards to its final location... the cable will become taunt and the ramp will be unable to slide off the back of the tailgate.
To remove the ramp.. lift it slightly....advance it forward on the tailgate slightly....reach under and remove the "S" connector from the underside of the bumper and the ramp should be released fully...
Hope this helps... and I will post pictures later when I get a chance...
02-13-2011, 12:57 PM
#3
Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i dont think they could be used for that !! i have seen them bend
find a ditch to put the truck in so the bike does not have to go UP so high to get in the back of the truck
i have loaded a dead atv a couple times LOL its much more fun than loading a dead sled LOL that i have done many many times
find a ditch to put the truck in so the bike does not have to go UP so high to get in the back of the truck
i have loaded a dead atv a couple times LOL its much more fun than loading a dead sled LOL that i have done many many times
02-13-2011, 09:02 PM
#4
I would agree that I would NOT use the tie-downs and a come along...
As I mentioned above regarding my ramp idea... Since I just received my truck a few weeks ago I haven't had an opportunity to test my ramps on the new truck.. the ramp locks that I did before was for my Dodge Ram.
That being siad I had an opportunity to take the ramps out of the garage today...and low and behold, my original cables were not long enough to reach down to the trailer hitch on the new truck... so I had to make up some new ones. So I figured I would take the opportunity and take some photo's as well...
All the parts were acquired a Home Depot...
- (2) 4 foot 1/8" cable coated with rubber
- (4) Loop locks
- (2) "S" Rings
Total cost I think was 6 bucks...
Here are the pictures....
Step 1: Lean the ramp against the tailgate to allow slack...
Step 2: Latch the "S" connector to the Trailer Hitch loops...
Step 3: Once the "S" Connector is secure to the trailer hitch... slide the ramp back to the final position against the tailgate and tighten the Lock Loops fully. This will be the only time you need to do this... trim any excess cable...
You can see in this picture how taunt the cable is... it will NOT allow the ramp to be pulled off the tailgate under any load. The only way to release the pressue is to lift the front of the ramp slighlty and move it forward back on the tailgate. This will allow slack in the cable and thus you will be able to remove the "S" connector from the trailer hitch...
As you can see...both ramps are now secured to the trailer hitch and can not be moved. It is now safe to drive up a snowblower, mower, bike, or ATV... One thing to note, is to be sure you do NOT max out the capacity of the ramps or tailgate...
As I mentioned above regarding my ramp idea... Since I just received my truck a few weeks ago I haven't had an opportunity to test my ramps on the new truck.. the ramp locks that I did before was for my Dodge Ram.
That being siad I had an opportunity to take the ramps out of the garage today...and low and behold, my original cables were not long enough to reach down to the trailer hitch on the new truck... so I had to make up some new ones. So I figured I would take the opportunity and take some photo's as well...
All the parts were acquired a Home Depot...
- (2) 4 foot 1/8" cable coated with rubber
- (4) Loop locks
- (2) "S" Rings
Total cost I think was 6 bucks...
Here are the pictures....
Step 1: Lean the ramp against the tailgate to allow slack...
Step 2: Latch the "S" connector to the Trailer Hitch loops...
Step 3: Once the "S" Connector is secure to the trailer hitch... slide the ramp back to the final position against the tailgate and tighten the Lock Loops fully. This will be the only time you need to do this... trim any excess cable...
You can see in this picture how taunt the cable is... it will NOT allow the ramp to be pulled off the tailgate under any load. The only way to release the pressue is to lift the front of the ramp slighlty and move it forward back on the tailgate. This will allow slack in the cable and thus you will be able to remove the "S" connector from the trailer hitch...
As you can see...both ramps are now secured to the trailer hitch and can not be moved. It is now safe to drive up a snowblower, mower, bike, or ATV... One thing to note, is to be sure you do NOT max out the capacity of the ramps or tailgate...
02-13-2011, 10:39 PM
#6
Junior Member
Do not just rig up chain (or anything) between the tie downs in the bed and then pull from the center. Doing this will put alot more load on them that you think.
Think about it this way....you're at a family reunion. Bunch of adults are playing tug-o-war. They're dead even with 8 people on each side when a kid comes along and pulls down in the center. They all fall over towards the center.
This is due to the physics in the pull. The flatter your bridal (the section of chain or rope between the tie points), the more the force. It is not distributed 50/50 between them. It can be as high as 1000x your actual pull weight. I wish I had a good diagram for this.
If you want more info, I will see what I can do to get a good drawing of it and the math behind it as well.
Think about it this way....you're at a family reunion. Bunch of adults are playing tug-o-war. They're dead even with 8 people on each side when a kid comes along and pulls down in the center. They all fall over towards the center.
This is due to the physics in the pull. The flatter your bridal (the section of chain or rope between the tie points), the more the force. It is not distributed 50/50 between them. It can be as high as 1000x your actual pull weight. I wish I had a good diagram for this.
If you want more info, I will see what I can do to get a good drawing of it and the math behind it as well.