Mod (Ret.)

In doing research on a Ford "heavy duty" alternator option, there was none offered by Ford. Only the 110 amp came with the 4.6 and 5.4 engines.

You CAN buy higher amp alternators though; they are all aftermarket, and some brag they are "OEM spec". However, they only put out up to their rated output at a certain RPM, and only under demand.

Tommy J

So I found out through this wonderful experience

Island Truck

I have the same issue as the original poster. At 135k miles or so, I replaced the original alternator with a motorcraft reman (because I had the front cover off to do the guides and it was easy, so I did it. That was 3 years ago and 5,000 miles (yes, 5k). The replacement alternator was GL-8743-RM


Every since then, my headlights would get bright and then dim. Starting recently, the battery light on the dashboard would occasionally light up.


So, I swapped out the alternator with another motorcraft reman. I have the original window sticker for my truck which clearly says 130 amp alternator. The ford dealer says they were all 110. BUT, if you go to fordparts dot com, you will see that there is indeed a 130amp alternator option.


It is GLV-8671-RM. When the ford dealer looked that up directly, they confirmed it fits. When they looked up my VIN#, it calls for the 110. They were confused as to why it wouldn't show up the same in both places.


Anyway, I got it. I installed it. And now the battery light is on all the time. I have taken it to Pep Boys who said that the battery, starter, and alternator all check out fine. I can read the voltage while driving and it fluctuates between 13.8 and 14.2 volts.. usually at 14. There are no codes.


I have read here that the motorcraft reman use substandard voltage regulators. The box says they use new oem voltage regulators. My local dealer does have a new 110amp, but they do not take returns on alternators once installed. So I'm out $2oo if I try it.


aggravated....


My point is, for the next person reading this... that there is a motorcraft 130 amp alternator. It is GLV-8671-RM. It didn't solve my battery light problem.

Tommy J

My sticker said 130 but dealer said 110. I couldn't even find a new 110. All remans. Don't waste your time on the 130. Just get a 110. They may have cheap regulators no matter the brand and MC does not always mean that Ford was involved in the process especially with a rebuilt so I was told. Have'nt had a problem since though

Bernie963

FIRST and FORMOST, I hope you are well and driving again...

I just read the entire thread looked at my window sticker and it lists a 130A alt. Ran the ford vin decoder and it confirms a 130A alt. 2005 5.4 Larait.

bernie

Tommy J

Thanks, yep kept my license, thank God cause I'm self employed and didn't want to be a stock boy at the local Acme. I'm no kid ya know. Would have been humbling. No problems since then either. Had what they call Auras which is what migraine sufferers get. (flashing wiggly lights on your peripheral) before the lovely event. Anyhow, enough about me. Yeah that 130 amp thing is confusing. especially when the sticker says it but some vins contradict. I had real problems trying to find one let alone a new 130 or 110 for that matter. I guess they prefer to rebuild everything these days. The funny thing I always forget to mention is that I probably didn't need one. I bought the truck with a remote start after market and the thing has a mind of its own. Ghost starts sometimes, doesn't start other times and occassionaly is in aux mode which kills everything in that mode. Turn the key and nothing. By trial and error one day I hit the aux button again and the truck fired up using my key as usual. I think it was in that mode when I bought a new batt and alt. Go figure. I'm having that sucker removed soon. Anyway, thanks for the input. Enjoy your week

PapaBear1975

So after just spending over $350 for a new battery alternator, I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure out this battery light thing. Glad I found this thread- I put in a carquest/advance auto alternator yesterday and a new NAPA battery today (I get a discount through work). Multimeter reads 14.5 when running at the battery. I shut down the engine, and waited a bit before testing the battery with my multimeter- has a healthy charge....ought to, just put it in TODAY, lol. Yet, the battery light is still on. Well, once I financially recuperate from this venture and a couple other repairs I'm doing I'm going to get the 110 amp Motorcraft one off of RockAuto. I was going to get an engineered 200 amp- planning on adding a couple amber fog lights for bad weather highway driving that might pull extra power, and also possibly a winch, so I want to get this nailed down. In the winter, I use my truck to help pull people out of the ditch on my way home from work, the winch would be a nice accessory to help these folks. Any suggestions there also?

Feathermerchant

Is the light on all the time or just when the engine is running?

PapaBear1975

It comes on and stays on with the engine running. Yesterday, it turned off for a bit, then came back on. I'm guessing it's one of the connectors that feeds information back to the PCM? It's charging at the alternator (checked that with multimeter), and the battery is up over 13V with the engine off. I tested for any parasitic draws- nothing there. Fuse at main junction box is good (#11). Checked one under dash too- all is well there. I'm going to double check those wiring harnesses.

laterongc

isn’t that higher than it should be ?