balancer install (harmonic install).. need some tips..
07-09-2014, 11:57 PM
#12
OTC 7206 Multi-Purpose Strap Wrench by OTC
07-21-2014, 12:11 AM
#13
I don't have a lot of respect for the "proper" tool. The only thing it does is put a bearing where the original washer is. Tapping the thing on the shaft is just that, tapping it on. If you don't line up the key, you're screwed. If you beat on it, you're screwed. If you do any of these things, send your truck to a man with a garage.
I just had to put a balancer on my crankshaft a few days ago. Blew out, all of a sudden. Had me mystified for almost a day, until I found the rubber piece blown out near the end of the day. It ACTS like you're running on 7 cylinders, along with a clanging/knocking noise, that makes you question whether or not you're about to throw a rod.
Just get the precisely machined hole over the precisely machined shaft, making sure to add some RTV over the shaft and keyway, then tap it -lightly- into place. After that, the bolt gains about 5 threads. You can cinch that up to torque with no problem. No need for a thrust bearing on a special tool if you're just tightening a bolt that already has about 5 threads into the crank...
IMO...
I just had to put a balancer on my crankshaft a few days ago. Blew out, all of a sudden. Had me mystified for almost a day, until I found the rubber piece blown out near the end of the day. It ACTS like you're running on 7 cylinders, along with a clanging/knocking noise, that makes you question whether or not you're about to throw a rod.
Just get the precisely machined hole over the precisely machined shaft, making sure to add some RTV over the shaft and keyway, then tap it -lightly- into place. After that, the bolt gains about 5 threads. You can cinch that up to torque with no problem. No need for a thrust bearing on a special tool if you're just tightening a bolt that already has about 5 threads into the crank...
IMO...
07-22-2014, 08:39 PM
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I ended up renting till from aap. Finished pressing it on. The took 2x4. Drilled some holes in it lined it up with 2 of the holes that you use to pull off and torqued to specs.
Pretty sure will be doing it again soon cause still have a misfire.
Pretty sure will be doing it again soon cause still have a misfire.
07-24-2014, 08:13 PM
#16
See if you can make it go away. If it doesn't, and the replaceable parts are all good, then you may have a valve issue. In which case you'd need to do a per-cylinder compression check to find out. OR, you may have an inductive sensor issue in the distributor. (Or the "thick-film" module could be going out too, but I think those usually fail suddenly? Anyone else know more about that thing?)
Although... I've usually found misfire issues like that are often caused by plug wires arcing to each other or to the block, and if they do you just need new wires. Try isolating them with the bits of cardboard first, to see if the problem goes away. That sort of diagnostic procedure only requires a bit of time, not a bunch of new parts that cost money...
07-24-2014, 08:17 PM
#17
Misfire? Assuming your cap, rotor and plugs are good, you might try placing some cardboard between the plug wires wherever they touch. And wherever they touch the block. Just for diagnostic purposes.
See if you can make it go away. If it doesn't, and the replaceable parts are all good, then you may have a valve issue. In which case you'd need to do a per-cylinder compression check to find out. OR, you may have an inductive sensor issue in the distributor. (Or the "thick-film" module could be going out too, but I think those usually fail suddenly? Anyone else know more about that thing?)
Although... I've usually found misfire issues like that are often caused by plug wires arcing to each other or to the block, and if they do you just need new wires. Try isolating them with the bits of cardboard first, to see if the problem goes away. That sort of diagnostic procedure only requires a bit of time, not a bunch of new parts that cost money...
Thick film ignitions haven't been used for decades.
Last edited by VTX1800N1; 07-24-2014 at 08:20 PM.
07-24-2014, 08:30 PM
#19
I don't have a lot of respect for the "proper" tool. The only thing it does is put a bearing where the original washer is. Tapping the thing on the shaft is just that, tapping it on. If you don't line up the key, you're screwed. If you beat on it, you're screwed. If you do any of these things, send your truck to a man with a garage.
I just had to put a balancer on my crankshaft a few days ago. Blew out, all of a sudden. Had me mystified for almost a day, until I found the rubber piece blown out near the end of the day. It ACTS like you're running on 7 cylinders, along with a clanging/knocking noise, that makes you question whether or not you're about to throw a rod.
Just get the precisely machined hole over the precisely machined shaft, making sure to add some RTV over the shaft and keyway, then tap it -lightly- into place. After that, the bolt gains about 5 threads. You can cinch that up to torque with no problem. No need for a thrust bearing on a special tool if you're just tightening a bolt that already has about 5 threads into the crank...
IMO...
I just had to put a balancer on my crankshaft a few days ago. Blew out, all of a sudden. Had me mystified for almost a day, until I found the rubber piece blown out near the end of the day. It ACTS like you're running on 7 cylinders, along with a clanging/knocking noise, that makes you question whether or not you're about to throw a rod.
Just get the precisely machined hole over the precisely machined shaft, making sure to add some RTV over the shaft and keyway, then tap it -lightly- into place. After that, the bolt gains about 5 threads. You can cinch that up to torque with no problem. No need for a thrust bearing on a special tool if you're just tightening a bolt that already has about 5 threads into the crank...
IMO...
07-24-2014, 09:23 PM
#20
U probably have a spark plug issue. I would pull M, inspect M and run compression tests. Maybe you will notice some burn marks on a cop or lines on a spark plug.