06F150CFCT

You are gunna have to wire a 12v source to the rear in order to get that one to work i think. I had a recon scanning one and i had run a hot wire from my battery to a switch in the cab and then run a wire along the frame to the rear. Im sure i coulda found another 12v wire to tap into. Maybe youll get lucky and the Anzo one wont require a 12v source.

aweil00

wow. hopefully. it didn't say anything about that in the description.

unixgeek13

You can tap the center wire from the 7 pin for reverse lights...

06F150CFCT

Yeah that was my gripe when i got mine in the mail...Never said anything about it on the product description..then theres a whole sheet that came with the light bar that says YOU NEED A HOT 12V SOURCE. I was like what the hell...haha

aweil00

what did you tap for the hot line?

unixgeek13

Reference the attached diagram...

The #4 pin is only hot with the key. Make sure that you have a 20A fuse in position 21 and the relay in 9 in the fuse box. Mine came in a bag in the glove box...

You can jump the relay very simply to make the #4 pin full-time hot too.

Hope this helps.

aweil00

the diagram rocks! how would you jump it? can that cause any kind of hazard?

unixgeek13

primitive art here....

. . . a b
--- | |
--- | |

that is the pin layout for the relay. take a short bit of wire and crimp female blade holders on each end. You jump a to b in the diagram.

The only real downside is if you have a trailer that has rechargeable batteries and you plug it into the 7 pin. With the relay, the charging function would only work when running. Jumped, you're always hot.

aweil00

when splicing in the hot wire, should i disconnect the battery?

sorry, i'm a novice with cars. just getting into. I guess I never really had a car, well, truck, that I cared about. (this is my first truck actually)

unixgeek13

If you don't do the jumper until last, then having the key out of the ignition will make tapping #4 a lot safer. I suggest that use "tap splices".