Another Rough Idle Post
#11
Moderator
Unfortunately most if not all your OEM coils were probably good. They very rarely fail. Usually new boots and springs will fix them right up. I realize this probably doesn't do you any good right now. I agree with Martian buy two sets then you will have extras in case there is a dud and still probably have extras for future use. Watch this video for future reference.
#13
yes, I had a misfire cylinders 5, 6, and 7.
I replaced those those with new plugs but the problem persisted. Went ahead and replaced the remaining ones and no more codes.
Don't buy Chinese plugs. Mine failed after 3 days.
You can buy a set of OEM plugs on eBay for $200-$300
I replaced those those with new plugs but the problem persisted. Went ahead and replaced the remaining ones and no more codes.
Don't buy Chinese plugs. Mine failed after 3 days.
You can buy a set of OEM plugs on eBay for $200-$300
#14
Moderator
#15
Mark
iTrader: (1)
#16
Member
Thread Starter
#17
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Don't forget to check what's in between the plugs and COP's.. boots and springs
#18
Member
Thread Starter
Ok just an update to my testing, I pulled each coil while the truck was running and every single one affected the rpms. Would this mean my coils are good and I need to look somewhere else for the problem or could some of them cause issues but not be completely dead?
#19
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
An intermittent arc over on boots does not show up in codes
A misfire has to last so many seconds for it to register . I had to push mine really hard to get it to set code .
Review your spark plug change out routine . In your case use factory mc plugs , clean out cyl where carbon builds up with carb cleaner . That carbon breaks new plugs and screws up the heat range .
No need to use anti seize if you do this and are using updated plugs . Anti seize was only a short time temp fix before they redid plugs .
If you do use anti sieze use a very thin layer of nickel nowhere near the tip . Always clean connectors and replace boots/springs . Keep your hands clean especially of anti seize as it is metal and conducts causing shorts . . And always torque wrench them down after starting by hand ,we get so many people with loose plugs backing out . A cheap harbor freight one will do . 25 -28 pounds please, go back and double check them . .Use rubber center spark socket avoid side loading plug .Some combination of extensions will help-- some swivels or wobbles. Swivel head 3/8 socket wrench from harbor is cheap and helps .
Avoid power tools if you don't want trouble . Don't try to copy a pro wrench as he has a very good feel for this and you won't . Use dielectric grease on each end of boots .
These boots handle 50,000 volts or more, they have to be dry and in very good condition .
Review your spark plug change out routine . In your case use factory mc plugs , clean out cyl where carbon builds up with carb cleaner . That carbon breaks new plugs and screws up the heat range .
No need to use anti seize if you do this and are using updated plugs . Anti seize was only a short time temp fix before they redid plugs .
If you do use anti sieze use a very thin layer of nickel nowhere near the tip . Always clean connectors and replace boots/springs . Keep your hands clean especially of anti seize as it is metal and conducts causing shorts . . And always torque wrench them down after starting by hand ,we get so many people with loose plugs backing out . A cheap harbor freight one will do . 25 -28 pounds please, go back and double check them . .Use rubber center spark socket avoid side loading plug .Some combination of extensions will help-- some swivels or wobbles. Swivel head 3/8 socket wrench from harbor is cheap and helps .
Avoid power tools if you don't want trouble . Don't try to copy a pro wrench as he has a very good feel for this and you won't . Use dielectric grease on each end of boots .
These boots handle 50,000 volts or more, they have to be dry and in very good condition .
#20
Member
Thread Starter
Ok so I recently purchased a scanning tool to help diagnose the issue. It looks like the MAF sensor is reading 4.0-4.7 g/s at an idle of 500-530 rpm or 5.5-6.4 g/s at an idle of about 600 if it's in park. It shakes more in park. Is this normal?