SunnyDayMechanic

Just trying to double check.
2005 Ford F150 XL 4.2? V6 Motor w/Air

I'm trying to replace alternator and I want to get confirmation on removal of alternator.

LOOKING from front of vehicle

1) one bolt on right
2) alternator cables - one is bolted to back of alt and other is a clipped

3) and there are two bolts on left side which have 2 nuts that hold brackets on...once these are removed...there still is bolt/stud that remains.

What size and which way to loosen these two studded bolts that still remain after two nuts & brackets are removed???



I just want to be 100% that I'm doing the right thing here..and that these are the only two bolts to be removed and that's it?

Thanks in advance

gone postal

Yep, just remove the nuts and brackets, and then remove the remaining studs just like they were any other bolt.

SunnyDayMechanic

Sorry haven't responded sooner. Been Busy with help Dad (his health isnt a good as I'd like right now...but THANK YOU for all the replies.

Update...I've swapped out Alternator and New Battery and New Serpentine Belt BUT ..now problem is Battery Light is coming or going on and off. Truck seems to start regularly so far BUT I still don't have that warm fuzzy feeling everything is normal.

Could this be a problem with bad Rebuilt/Re-manufactured Alternator or possibly the Belt Tensioner?

Any help would be appreciated!

gone postal

Check the ground(s) and make sure they're good, free of corrosion. I have a 4.6L or I'd be more specific. Been a while since I messed with the V-6.

SunnyDayMechanic

Are you referring to battery terminal cables?

rbrais

If the posts are clean (good contact), my bet would be that you have a defective alternator. Rebuilds are known for that. For an extra $20 or $30 you can have a brand new one. Think I paid $170 at Auto Zone for my 130 amp and that was with a $10 core charge.


Flickering battery light many times means that the brushes are going bad. Sometimes it will charge, and sometimes it won't. Eventually it will fail. Mine took about 30 miles to die from the time the light came on.

SunnyDayMechanic

I took it to the closer Autozone by my house..not by Dads. They put machine on it and told me battery was fine before it started and they also said its working...meaning alternator is putting out right amps/volts.

All I know is my Dad was NOT getting Battery light prior to this problem. I know belt was squeaking and then alternator was whinny and then locked up and belt snapped but that was it. I replaced belt, new alternator (re-manufactured - not my idea ..lol Dad trying to save a few $$$) and also has brand new battery too.

And now after about 5 minutes..battery light comes on regardless what I use or dont use in way of draw on battery (no lights, no radio, no lighter, no air) it still comes on after about 4-5 minutes then goes off after little bit then back one. On and Off.

I was VERY careful disconnection cable with nut on back of alternator and even more so with snap connector on alternator. I'm going to pull it out tomorrow or Friday and get another alternator. Clean connects and make sure nothing is bent on connectors etc. I'll also disconnect battery and reconnect but the battery terminals are in good shape but I'll make them bright and shinny with terminal brush or sandpaper etc. I'll make sure contacts are good that I'm aware of...but other than that I'm lost?!?!

Thanks for all help so far...I'm gonna be ticked if its alternator..cause Mgr kinda had attitude that i even suggested it might be alternator.

Maybe I should just pay difference and get Brand New Alternator when I take this one back

SunnyDayMechanic

Wanted to THANK EVERYONE for the help.

Finally got fed up and pull out alternator after checking wiring, posts etc...

Got OEM Replacement alternator instead (took back re manufactured alternator) and all is WELL!!!

Dont think I'll be buying too many re manufactured parts in the near future. Nothing worse than doing a job two times because of the "NEW PARTS?

Between the hassle of doing it twice and the attitude of the Mgr of the Autozone when I questioned "could it be the replacements re-manufactured part?" You would think I insulted his wife or baby. then got assistant and ran a few tests on everything and insisted it was a wiring short somewhere and not the re-manufactured part. Funny thing is went in there to return the re-manufactured part and he seen me come in and seemed like he went to run and hid in stock room...lol


Anyways I've just been crazy busy with helping Dad and few other crisis but I wanted to thank everyone for the help and advice on this issue. Its great that forums and sites like this exist.

Better late than never ;-)

Next Im going to tackle the rear differential front bearing seal....it has a very small leak. ;-( ;-) ;-?

Thanks again!!!

bourgeois1269

Those rebuilt AZ alternators are junk !! I had the same problem and did the same thing. Got refund on reman from AZ and bought oem

SunnyDayMechanic

I wouldnt have mind so much but Mgr insisted that it was short in wiring just from throwing volt meter on in and seeing what amps were of battery before start and while truck was running with all accessories on. Thats what made him insist that it was wiring short and Not their alternator...he was 110% sure (his words) it wasnt the alternator or batter.

There is nothing wrong with standing by your products you sell but after this all happened I did a search of re-manufactured autozone alternators and found a LOT of threads like this one.

So I guess it does happen and a lot more often then they would like to admit


Well working on 06 Mustang GT this weekend. Hope this goes smoother than F-150 ;-)

Front Stabilizers Links

Front Bearings

Turning Rotors and New Pads (front and backs)

thanks again for all the help everyone