Alignment Camber Bolts
12-31-2015, 10:25 AM
#1
FSU Truck
Thread Starter
Alignment Camber Bolts
Hey guys,
Does anyone have experience installing the Camber bolts for our trucks ('08 Screw RWD).
Was wondering if anyone has done it without removing everything from the lower control arm (strut, steering knuckle, sway bar, etc...).
I get the impression if I remove one bolt from the lower control arm, it's going to slide around in the hole. I can't come up with a good way to index the bolt, considering it will be a new bolt that the big washer that goes in.
I was thinking maybe a huge ball joint c-clamp press between the arm and the frame and then a jack underneath. I'm trying to find a good way to either have the arm hold place while I take the bolt out OR make it very easy to align it back with the new bolt.
I intend to have it aligned after, but the shop is a long way away
Does anyone have experience installing the Camber bolts for our trucks ('08 Screw RWD).
Was wondering if anyone has done it without removing everything from the lower control arm (strut, steering knuckle, sway bar, etc...).
I get the impression if I remove one bolt from the lower control arm, it's going to slide around in the hole. I can't come up with a good way to index the bolt, considering it will be a new bolt that the big washer that goes in.
I was thinking maybe a huge ball joint c-clamp press between the arm and the frame and then a jack underneath. I'm trying to find a good way to either have the arm hold place while I take the bolt out OR make it very easy to align it back with the new bolt.
I intend to have it aligned after, but the shop is a long way away
12-31-2015, 10:39 AM
#2
Senior Member
No experience here, but I considered going that route after installing new UCA's and struts a couple weeks ago. To me it didn't make sense since the camber bolts were about $30 and I'd have to go through numerous iterations until I finally got it aligned properly. To me spending $80 to have it done was a better option.
Now I know that doesn't answer your question, but I assume you're replacing some front end suspension pieces which is why you want to get it aligned. If I were you, I would not touch the lower control arms at all unless the bushings are bad. That way your cast/camber won't be affected too much by your other work. If you replace your tie rods just make sure you measure the length of the old ones and set the new ones to the same length. UCA's and lower ball joints replacement shouldn't get your alignment too far out of whack. So, I think you can probably do all of that and have your truck close enough you can drive it a decent distance to get it properly aligned without a lot of tire wear. Good luck.
Now I know that doesn't answer your question, but I assume you're replacing some front end suspension pieces which is why you want to get it aligned. If I were you, I would not touch the lower control arms at all unless the bushings are bad. That way your cast/camber won't be affected too much by your other work. If you replace your tie rods just make sure you measure the length of the old ones and set the new ones to the same length. UCA's and lower ball joints replacement shouldn't get your alignment too far out of whack. So, I think you can probably do all of that and have your truck close enough you can drive it a decent distance to get it properly aligned without a lot of tire wear. Good luck.
12-31-2015, 10:47 AM
#3
To each his own, but even a couple hundred miles with misaligned settings really won't affect anything. If you get it close with simple measurements, you're fine to drive. If you're in Orlando, you have a shop well within 50 miles. No worries. I wouldn't overthink it.
12-31-2015, 12:43 PM
#4
FSU Truck
Thread Starter
No experience here, but I considered going that route after installing new UCA's and struts a couple weeks ago. To me it didn't make sense since the camber bolts were about $30 and I'd have to go through numerous iterations until I finally got it aligned properly. To me spending $80 to have it done was a better option.
Now I know that doesn't answer your question, but I assume you're replacing some front end suspension pieces which is why you want to get it aligned. If I were you, I would not touch the lower control arms at all unless the bushings are bad. That way your cast/camber won't be affected too much by your other work. If you replace your tie rods just make sure you measure the length of the old ones and set the new ones to the same length. UCA's and lower ball joints replacement shouldn't get your alignment too far out of whack. So, I think you can probably do all of that and have your truck close enough you can drive it a decent distance to get it properly aligned without a lot of tire wear. Good luck.
Now I know that doesn't answer your question, but I assume you're replacing some front end suspension pieces which is why you want to get it aligned. If I were you, I would not touch the lower control arms at all unless the bushings are bad. That way your cast/camber won't be affected too much by your other work. If you replace your tie rods just make sure you measure the length of the old ones and set the new ones to the same length. UCA's and lower ball joints replacement shouldn't get your alignment too far out of whack. So, I think you can probably do all of that and have your truck close enough you can drive it a decent distance to get it properly aligned without a lot of tire wear. Good luck.
It was late in the weekend and I shied away putting the camber bolts in because i couldnt find a way to index the bolts.
Now with fresh weekends ahead of me, I want to find a way of putting the bolts in and hopefully not take it apart.
Does anyone have experience taking out the bolts on the LCA while everything is still installed?
12-31-2015, 12:49 PM
#5
FSU Truck
Thread Starter
Do you have any idea how much the lower control arm will move (will i still even be able to get a bolt back in) when i pull out one of the bolts?
12-31-2015, 01:25 PM
#6
Pull the wheel off, and support the suspension with a floor jack (under the rotor, you're not lifting the truck, just taking tension off). If you play with the floor jack a little, you can get the old bolt to come out pretty easily. Slide the new bolt in right after it. A prybar can help, and a hammer or mallet to help if its stuck.
12-31-2015, 03:08 PM
#7
Originally Posted by dom07
Pull the wheel off, and support the suspension with a floor jack (under the rotor, you're not lifting the truck, just taking tension off). If you play with the floor jack a little, you can get the old bolt to come out pretty easily. Slide the new bolt in right after it. A prybar can help, and a hammer or mallet to help if its stuck.
Support the suspension with the wheel off and it won't go anywhere.. Mark your old bolt center with marker on the crossmember to remove all doubt..
Definitely get an alignment afterwords, and make sure they actually adjust the new camber bolts..
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12-31-2015, 07:19 PM
#9
Timber Baron
You aren't going to stop it from moving. You'll be able to get the new bolt through easily, especially with an alignment bar and someone working the jack under the LCA ball joint. Just replace one bolt at a time and try to get it back to where the old one was, as indicated by faded paint/dirt on the front crossmember.