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I have an 05 Lariat and my sub under the back seat won't turn on. It hasn't worked since I bought it and I was wondering if there's anything I could check to get it working?
I borrowed the following article to make a wire harness for the subwoofer after replacing the original head unit with a 6 CD/Satellite Audiophile HU in my '07 Screw. I finished the installation August 25th and everything works and sounds great.
The 2 connectors with leads are a little expensive at $54.00 but well worth it after you hear the results.
The only thing I did different is, I skipped the last step about adding the 2k ohm 1/2 watt resistor.
If you are one of the many like myself who have purchased a factory sub to install in your F150, then here are 2 part numbers you will need.
Some, but not all of the F150's have the subwoofer wiring cable installed as part of the vehicle wiring harness. If your truck does not have it, as mine did not, then you can use these 2 part numbers to order the pigtails that plug into the radio and the sub. Of course your radio head unit has to have the little connection on the back for this to plug into.
The part numbers are: 3U2Z-14S411-DLA: Connector w/ leads that plugs into head unit
3U2Z-14S411-CAAA: Connector w/ leads that plugs into sub/amp
they cost me around 24 bucks each. When ordering, be sure and specify the part number "CAAA" there is another similar part ending in "CAA" and it does NOT fit.
Those part numbers are for use with the factory head unit (if equipped with sub plug on back of unit) and factory subwoofer/amp combo.
If you are going aftermarket you really don’t need either harness, although using 3U2Z-14S411-DLA: Connector w/ leads that plugs into head unit may make it a little cleaner to install as you won't have to tap into the main stereo harness for your audio and remote power signals.
With the 2 harnesses, you would connect the pins/wires between the head unit (HU) and Subwoofer (Sub) harnesses as follows: You will need about 80 feet of hook up wire for a clean install.
Pin 3 HU -> Pin 9 Sub Pin 1 HU -> Pin 7 Sub (Should be shielded) Pin 2 HU -> Pin 8 Sub (Should be shielded) Pin 4 HU -> Pin 1 Sub (Shield)
These 2 are wired separately:
Hot power +12V -> Pins 5 & 6 Sub Ground -> Pins 2 & 3 Sub
To avoid the turn on thump of the OE amp you must use ~2k ohm 1/2watt resister inline of the blue turn on lead.
Thanks for this post...it is still a resource 11 years later. Can you help me understand how I identify which pin is 3 in the HU and which pin is 9 on the sub?
I have a 2005 I am doing all over and replacing the factory system. I am just seeing if a audop kic 100 car audio dual 10” subwoofer fit under the back seat. This is one thing I am not good at when it comes to working and learning more about the Ford F-150
Splicing an RCA into the factory sub harness under seat
First post here, I'm hoping its in the right spot. I've been searching for about 6 hours but can't seem to find a solid answer or a diagram that makes sense to me.
I've got and 08 kr and the factory sub and amp was out of it when I bought it, but everything is there for it.
I've already put aftermarket subs/amp/ and a cheap LOC behind the dash, but I'm wondering on how much sound I'm missing out on.
I'm almost positive there's a correct way to go about cutting the end off the sub harness (under where the seat used to be), splice in an RCA/RCAs and use all the factory wiring, including the remote turn on.
04-25-2019, 01:03 AM
