Add a leaf install tips
06-12-2015, 08:47 PM
#21
Senior Member
Yes I had the 2-1 spring setup too I just wish I had thought of what Mr.Topaz06 had done before I cut the clamps off. Yes it does go right above the overload spring but like I had said above it's only a couple inches shorter than the second spring down so as Mr.Topaz06 said it would have landed on the clamps. so we grinded the rivets off and then had to grind the rivet stem off the leaf. Plus the new spring bolts pro comp sent had heads that were to big in depth and wouldn't have sat all the way into my Rough country 5" blocks so we had to grind the heads of those down some. Plus I added some pro comp 6degree wedges under my blocks to help with the angle of the pumpkin but those only came with a single hole, so we had to drill out another hole and expand the first one. Lets put it this way it took about 4 hours to do on a lift at the ford dealer my friend works at so if I had attempted to do it at home it easily would have been a 6 hour plus job. Nothing is easy I guess but it did bring the back up to where I wanted it.
06-12-2015, 08:49 PM
#22
Senior Member
Now I have to figure out if I should install the new pro comp spring clamps I bought, but not sure what keeps them from sliding around since they aren't attached to the leaf in any way. I also wondered between each stock spring they had a thin steel spacer to keep the leafs a little bit apart, but now the added leaf is right against the one above it. Hope this doesn't cause any noise issues.
Last edited by kitchenboy; 06-12-2015 at 08:53 PM.
06-13-2015, 09:21 AM
#23
leaf spring help
Kitchenboy, I made my own plate spacer to go between the new spring and old spring. I wish they would just include that in the kit. If ford puts those on at the factory, I would think there is a good reason for them to be there or the bean counter would of cut them out to save a penny. I did my install in the drive on the ground took about 4 hours wasn't too terrible of a job.
06-14-2015, 08:38 AM
#24
Senior Member
I figured if they didn't give me the spacer plate then hopefully you don't need it so we just put them together. The time was taken because of having to grind those brackets off plus the studs that are left after grinding the heads off, then one of the bolts that hold the springs together wouldn't come out so we had to grind that out and getting in there was a bitch. Plus I added some pro comp tapered shims to help with the driveline angle but they only came with one hole, so we had to fab them to fit the 2 holes. Thinking about just ordering a new set of 5" tapered blocks and putting those in. Now Im trying to decide if any kind of spring clamp is necessary or will the 2 center bolts hold the springs from shifting. Like I had said wish I had thought of what you had done before we totally cut the stock ones off. Guess if I start getting any kind of squeaking I can add those spring spacers in. What did you fab yours from by the way Mr.Topaz06. Thanks for the input too.
01-16-2019, 12:34 PM
#26
Junior Member
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The placement of the aal spring depends on how many leaf you have to start with. 2/1 leaf packs (2 leafs, 1 overload) the clips won't need to be moved. If you have 3/1 or 4/1 leaf packs, the clips need to be moved to disassemble the pack for aal install.
Best way of doing this is heat the clips with a torch then pry them apart, or cut them off (they won't slide). Even if you heat them up and bend them back you're not going to be able to bend them all the way back together, so you'll need new ones. That's how it went when I did mine.
Best way of doing this is heat the clips with a torch then pry them apart, or cut them off (they won't slide). Even if you heat them up and bend them back you're not going to be able to bend them all the way back together, so you'll need new ones. That's how it went when I did mine.
01-16-2019, 12:36 PM
#27
Mark
iTrader: (1)
01-16-2019, 01:33 PM
#29
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Good luck.