Humantorch

Googling has come up with another possible problem. According to these forums my fan clutch should not spin freely when the engine off. It's a long shot but the clutch on there looks to be a million years old anyway and it's only $40 so why not. I have not be experiencing any problems with the temp on the dash whatsoever and it's been in the upper 90s here.

casey.mikl

Supposed to be around 2 pounds. If it's at the correct level and over time when it stops working, check it again. If the compressor isn't kicking on that means your freon has leaked out. The only way to find said leak is to put the dye in the system and use a black light. Otherwise your gonna have a hard time finding your leak.

casey.mikl

If it's not broke don't fix it. If your temp is getting hot at a stop. I would say your fan clutch isn't good. These have an electric lock up in them. Atleast mine does. My bet is a leak. If the compressor cycles and then totally stops that means there's no pressure to kick it on. Meaning no freon.

casey.mikl

A problem I had with mine is the low pressure switch. At the plug about 6 inches down the wires broke. If you moved the wires the compressor would kick on and work. I cut out the bad section and fixed it. Never had an issue since

Humantorch

Just changed the fan clutch and that isn't it. There is nothing wrong with the compressor it is brand new. It engages and disengages like it is supposed to. I guess I'll be taking it in to a shop. Ford should design a car with a window shaker support somewhere cleverly placed. $50 for a window shaker on craigslist that will freeze your nuts off or $2k for a brand new original system that is just OK at best.

casey.mikl

If it got warm after 3 months there's a leak. Period..

Humantorch

If there was a leak wouldn't adding more freon make it cold?

digitaltrucker

Not if it has gotten air in the system or you are overcharging or undercharging.


My guess at this point, this is why the folks sold the truck, they did not want to deal with the possibility of replacing the evaporator coil. They may have even used a leak preventative.


Here is what I would do:


1: Evacuate the system
2.) Replace the fixed orifice valve, if this model has one. I bet it is clogged.
3.) vacuum system for 1 hr.
4.) observe gauges to see if needle on gauge rises indicating a leak. (15 minutes)
5.) DETERMINE CORRECT CHARGE AMOUNT-VERY IMPORTANT MORE IS NOT BETTER, NEITHER IS LESS
5.) charge with at least 2 cans (one with die) and use Freon sniffer and black light to find leak.


again, since it initially worked after new part replacement, my guess is that you still have a leak or trash in the system has killed the new parts.

Humantorch

Do you have any idea where the orifice tube might be on this truck? I looked allover Google for hours when I was doing the compressor and there are about a million opinions but no pictures of a guy with his hood up pointing at it.

ceasefire49

Having the same problem with F150 FX4 so normally when I have bad compressor I just replace the entire system and flush the evaporator. The Dryer,Condenser, Hoses and Compressor with new orings and Nylog costs around 300 bucks then get the 10 buck cans of 134a at Orieleys its dupont suva and its as good as anything out there. get the 4 season Compressor from ebay or from amazon and same with hoses the condenser you can not flush so they are only about 50 bucks. Drain shipping oil from compressor. put about an ounce of pag46 in condenser. The rest goes back in the compressor. Vac the system down then when there are no leaks follow eric the car guys You tube video on charging with Gauges. Its really not that expensive to just change out the whole system. I have a 99 burb with rear air I did this to it 3 years ago and the AC is working fine. Something is causing an obstruction in there. It could have found its way into the condenser or like was brought up the orifice tube. The system needs to be evaced and flushed. Like I say..its easier and cheaper just to do the entire system yourself.