08silverbullet

I'm going to change mine tomorrow with Mobil 1 5w30 full synthetic and a Motorcraft filter. Do lucas oil additives really work?

HulluCorn

I changed over to Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic with a half-quart of Lucas: synthetic oil additive.

I have to admit, on a scale from 1-10 (10 quiet), my motor is around a 7.5 now; my motor started off around a 4.5-5.
I would consider myself satisfied, considering that I can barely hear any common sounds on this 5.4 engine.

If I could have the same results with the 5W-20 Motorcraft Syn with the additive, i would not change from the Motorcraft. I have not tested my motor with the combination, just did an overnight switch without consideration.

The only reason I changed to 5W-30 was because of the multiple theories on oil pressure, longevity, and motor quietness.

Hopefully this helps someone...

Mulestang

Are you the truck's original owner? How many miles are on your motor? Had you run 5w20 up to this point?

HulluCorn

86K
I'm the second owner
I was told by the dealer it ran 5w20. ()

FrozenTundraGuy

Here's a new take on this topic; both Honda & Toyota have been using 5W-20 for years in various models with no real tragic effects; and have now gone to 0W-20 for the past few years. I don't think the oil is the real problem, but how often it is changed, checked (won't believe how many run with no oil on the dipstick), and how the vehicle is driven. I have worked in a Toyota Service Dept, and have good friends on the Honda side.

HulluCorn

I have read and been told by a lot of mechanics "bad oil maintenance on the 5.4 3v motor causes premature death".

It is pretty much common sense...
now for all the parts that fail... others mention the quality of the part, etc... I don't know anything about that.

MHOWELL34

210,000 miles now, I used 5w 20 Valvoline from the Express oil change place when i got my truck, then castrol 5w 30 because it started ticking after first change, eventually got loud and chain guide failed. But always ran 5w 20 mobil, valvoline or mobil 1 in it. Put the new chain guides in with tensioners etc... My last change was with schaeffers on all new parts. 5k later i Filled up with motorcraft and it started ticking and i was pissed, it still ticks now. The pics were 2 days within each other. I didn't want to run my truck with that low of pressure any longer. It was quiet all up to that first rebuilt oil change. **** motorcraft 5w 20, i was playing in it and it poured like water, still holding 30 psi or better on the 5w 30, and thats what i will stay with

MHOWELL34

tensioner failure causes premature death 90% of the time on these engines, The tensioner fails, pressure doesnt reach the top of the engine, and has no pressure to sent the oil through the phaser bolt passages. Then essentially it heat warps them, they start clacking, your chain starts stretching from all the stress, then it will eventually explode your chain guide because it can no longer do its job. Now you are looking at 1000 dollars in just parts for a repair. The engine itself is fine, the tensioners are the weakest link from everything i saw and learned.

HulluCorn

Thank you for this information

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

Quality of the parts is paramount. Especially with regards to the phaser and solenoid and tensioners.

I've heard there were around 36 revisions to the VCT phaser through its short troublesome life, and at least 4 solenoid revisions.. Make sure you get the latest and greatest of both..

5w-30 is key with these motors IMHO. People can **** and moan all day on this subject, but for most,... seeing, hearing, and feeling is believing...


Mhowell..
I'd personally stay away from any Lucas in the oil if I was you. It is known to foam (aerate), and air bubbles will compress and take the place of vital lubricant... It's good stuff for a rear main seal leak, or motor that's being limped home due to an oil leak, but if your engines loose or tight yet not leaking or smoking, I'd stick with just modifying the viscosity. I'm sure your oil pressure will drop some on pure 5w-30, but it will still be better than 5w-20...

I'm personally a fan of Amsoil signature 5w-30. It's loaded with additives and can be ran up to 25k miles! I usually change it around 6-8k, which is honestly not necessary, but I do it because I just run the extend drain oil as insurance.. It's nice to know I can go 25k on oil, but it doesn't mean I will, even if my UOA says it's safe.. With my catch can I do tend to skim a good amount of water out of the oil, which probably also helps the oil remain stable.

Thanks for posting those oil pressure pics, it's nice to see the difference first hand on a wet gauge...