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Now that is impressive. In my mind, it all comes down to the fact that if anything fails, it all needs replaced (phasers, vct solenoids, guides, chains, oil pump (melling 360 is my choice), lash adjusters, followers and steel tensioners). These guys that open up their motors and slap in some lock-outs make me cringe.......
so what im reading is the oil circulation is a big problem. How much would it be to install the Melling 360 oil pump? Wouldnt that solve many issues by having a better pump and circulation. That and 3,000 mile changes of 5w20 or 5w30.
Yes it probably would be a excellent preventative measure if you have a truck that is fine right now. Cost would be based on where you took it. It isn't a terribly difficult job just invasive but if you are going to go that deep I would at minimum replace the chains, tensioners, guides and solenoids. Might as well if the truck has over 100k. I personally don't like going over 3000-3500 miles between oil changes. You don't kill a engine by changing the oil to frequently but you can kill one by changing it too late. Plus oil is cheap compared to a overhaul ($34 with fl820s filter for motorcraft 5w-20 at Walmart).
so what im reading is the oil circulation is a big problem. How much would it be to install the Melling 360 oil pump? Wouldnt that solve many issues by having a better pump and circulation. That and 3,000 mile changes of 5w20 or 5w30.
Of course it will help, but wont cure it. As I stated before if anything, anything needs done, it all needs done. A big problem is the plastic chain guides. Once they break, from wear and age, no amount of oil pressure will save you. The plastic pieces fall into your oil pan and clog your oil pump pick-up screen.
In my case I never got any codes but did hear the timing chain hit the cover & the truck almost shut off (at this particular time).
Once I opened the engine up the small amount that the passenger side chain hit the aluminum cover was stuck to the pins of the chain.
The guides weren't broke & the tensioner seals weren't blown.
I believe I caught it early before the chain had a chance to brake the guide.
I keep all those parts & stored them in my barn.
5w20 with a 1/2-1 quart of Marvel Mystery depending on oil quantity and vehicle engine size. I've always used Marvel in the oil and a little in the gas at each fill.
Of course it will help, but wont cure it. As I stated before if anything, anything needs done, it all needs done. A big problem is the plastic chain guides. Once they break, from wear and age, no amount of oil pressure will save you. The plastic pieces fall into your oil pan and clog your oil pump pick-up screen.
That and what happened to me. One side broke, disappeared into the oil pan, the motor jumped and bent a rod. If it were me and I was buying another one of the 5.4 F150's I would immediately take the front off and do a timing job. Much cheaper than waiting for a problem to pop up. I'd change the cam phasers, oil pump and water pump at the same time. An ounce of prevention and all that
Well, I see a lot of anecdotal kinds of things here. In my view, there are only two ways to handle the "which oil do I use?" question. The first would be to simply stick to what the owners manual recommends, which is the same as saying stick to what the designers of the engine have recommended. The engineers will create recommendations based on what will work for 99.9% of people in all the various climates and usage applications.
The second is to pick your oil, then use oil analysis to determine when you should change your oil. Personally, I buy the very best oil I can, almost always Amsoil signature series. Then I run the oil to the manufacturers recommended mileage and do an oil analysis. If the oil analysis is good, then I run it another 2,000 miles and retest. Once the oil begins to show any degradation from A+ condition, I change the oil and then back off 25%. As an example, if the oil made it to 12,000 before it began to show any degradation, then I would set my next oil change to 9,000 miles. I generally will test a couple more times when draining at 9,000 miles to make sure the oil is still in good shape.
If you're unwilling to do oil analysis, then stick with the manufacturers recommendation. There is simply no other way to tell if the oil is failing or not, and running an oil beyond the recommendation is fine if you are using high quality oils. For years only Amsoil was bold enough to say that synthetics could be run longer. Now they all seem to be doing it. Better oils will last longer because they don't break down as quickly under stress.
One last caveat. If you are towing or in harsh environments, make sure you do your oil analysis when under those conditions.
01-14-2017, 11:06 PM
