5.4L 3V Spark Plugs Engine Build Dates before 10/09/07
11-07-2015, 07:00 PM
#911
Replaced plugs myself
I got a $900 quote to replace place plugs and a coil pack.
They also said it would be an additional $90 for each plug they broke. At 75K miles, I had an engine flush done and changed all the plugs and coil packs myself. None broke, they all came out easy and it cost me about $325. All the plugs I took out look like this one or better.
They also said it would be an additional $90 for each plug they broke. At 75K miles, I had an engine flush done and changed all the plugs and coil packs myself. None broke, they all came out easy and it cost me about $325. All the plugs I took out look like this one or better.
11-07-2015, 07:09 PM
#912
Replaced plugs myself
I got a $900 quote to replace place plugs and a coil pack.
They also said it would be an additional $90 for each plug they broke. At 75K miles, I had an engine flush done and changed all the plugs and coil packs myself. None broke, they all came out easy and it cost me about $325. All the plugs I took out look like this one or better.
They also said it would be an additional $90 for each plug they broke. At 75K miles, I had an engine flush done and changed all the plugs and coil packs myself. None broke, they all came out easy and it cost me about $325. All the plugs I took out look like this one or better.
01-23-2016, 07:42 AM
#914
Start a new thread...
05-24-2016, 08:10 PM
#915
Really? They changed the design starting with 11/30/07? Damn mine is 11/23/07. Bummer!!!
Just bought an 08 Lariat 5.4l. I was originally looking into ecoboost but saw a great deal on my local ford place on this truck and unfortunately didn't realize the issues that the 5.4 has. Figured it was an v8 and it should last.
Is the new design only effect the spark plugs? Or did it improve the engine overall such as cam phaser and timing chain issues?
Just bought an 08 Lariat 5.4l. I was originally looking into ecoboost but saw a great deal on my local ford place on this truck and unfortunately didn't realize the issues that the 5.4 has. Figured it was an v8 and it should last.
Is the new design only effect the spark plugs? Or did it improve the engine overall such as cam phaser and timing chain issues?
05-29-2016, 12:23 AM
#917
Thanks
Very
Thanks! I'm going to try this tomorrow. I've been trying everything for a week since I did a complete plug and coil change and been having trouble ever since.
I've NEVER seen anyone mention this in regard to the problem of spark plugs breaking off on removal.
I had random misfire under light acceleration (45-55 mph) on my 04 5.4L starting about 120,000 and I fought it for two years / 60k mi. I'm sure I spent $2500 replacing parts and 200 hrs labor swapping, changing, talking to mechanics and reading posts. Changed spark plugs TWICE. Broke five the first time and two the second time and all sounded like removing rusty lug nuts when removing them. Nether plug change helped the misfire problem, just moved to different cylinders.
One day I decided "IF THE CARBON BUILDUP AROUND THE SPARK PLUG IS SUFFICIENT TO TWIST THE ENDS OFF UPON REMOVAL - HOW THEN CAN I EXPECT TO SCREW A NEW PLUG BACK IN THE SAME HOLE WITHOUT DAMAGING THE SNOUT ON THE NEW PLUG OR "FRACTURING" THE CERAMIC INSULATION INSIDE THE SNOUT?" I had to use a ratchet with some significant torque to screw new plugs in. --- Perhaps, the carbon buildup in the spark plug hole was damaging new plugs on re-installation!!
I had never read a TSB or post talking about this possibility. So I bought a (third) set of new spark plugs (Motocraft SP515 this time) and spent $19.99 on a set of steel thread brushes, (similar to bottle brushes) with a "T" handle, from Harbor Freight. While replacing the plugs this time, I took the steel bottle brush (about the size my little finger) and cleaned the carbon out of the spark plug holes beyond the threaded part until a carburetor soaked rag would come back perfectly clean!! If not, I'd burnish the **** out of that hole again. When I got through, the new spark plugs screwed all the way down to the seat with my fingers just like putting them in a new engine head. Upon startup, INSTANTLY - BINGO - perfect startup, idle, and about 8k miles later without a single misfire. My OBD II diagnostic tool indicates ZERO misfires on all 8 cylinders in the last 10 drive cycles. At 197,000 its a perfect pleasure to drive - gradual acceleration is perfectly smooth until it shifts down and goes on like it did when it was brand new!!!!
IMHO, I believe MANY MANY people are damaging new plugs on re-install because of the same carbon that seized the old plug and broke it off coming out. I've seen mechanics install new plugs with an impact wrench. And I even 'torqued' new ones in with a ratchet the first two times - with them "screeching". If the old plug was seized in the head with carbon when removed / the carbon would have to be binding on the new plug enough to crack the ceramic inside the plug, leaving it susceptible to arcing over inside. I'm pretty sure this is why my first TWO spark plug changes did nothing but just make the random misfire or intermittent misfire move to different cylinders.
This is a fairly simple and cheap thing to try - and it made logical sense to me even though it sounds so simple as to be stupid. But I believe this silly simple step is really what cured my annoying random misfire after having changed COP's, VTC Solenoids, O2 Sensors, one fuel Injector, COP Boots .....TWO sets of plugs.... and a ****load of other stuff chasing the problem.
Just my thoughts on the problem. Hope it helps someone.
I had random misfire under light acceleration (45-55 mph) on my 04 5.4L starting about 120,000 and I fought it for two years / 60k mi. I'm sure I spent $2500 replacing parts and 200 hrs labor swapping, changing, talking to mechanics and reading posts. Changed spark plugs TWICE. Broke five the first time and two the second time and all sounded like removing rusty lug nuts when removing them. Nether plug change helped the misfire problem, just moved to different cylinders.
One day I decided "IF THE CARBON BUILDUP AROUND THE SPARK PLUG IS SUFFICIENT TO TWIST THE ENDS OFF UPON REMOVAL - HOW THEN CAN I EXPECT TO SCREW A NEW PLUG BACK IN THE SAME HOLE WITHOUT DAMAGING THE SNOUT ON THE NEW PLUG OR "FRACTURING" THE CERAMIC INSULATION INSIDE THE SNOUT?" I had to use a ratchet with some significant torque to screw new plugs in. --- Perhaps, the carbon buildup in the spark plug hole was damaging new plugs on re-installation!!
I had never read a TSB or post talking about this possibility. So I bought a (third) set of new spark plugs (Motocraft SP515 this time) and spent $19.99 on a set of steel thread brushes, (similar to bottle brushes) with a "T" handle, from Harbor Freight. While replacing the plugs this time, I took the steel bottle brush (about the size my little finger) and cleaned the carbon out of the spark plug holes beyond the threaded part until a carburetor soaked rag would come back perfectly clean!! If not, I'd burnish the **** out of that hole again. When I got through, the new spark plugs screwed all the way down to the seat with my fingers just like putting them in a new engine head. Upon startup, INSTANTLY - BINGO - perfect startup, idle, and about 8k miles later without a single misfire. My OBD II diagnostic tool indicates ZERO misfires on all 8 cylinders in the last 10 drive cycles. At 197,000 its a perfect pleasure to drive - gradual acceleration is perfectly smooth until it shifts down and goes on like it did when it was brand new!!!!
IMHO, I believe MANY MANY people are damaging new plugs on re-install because of the same carbon that seized the old plug and broke it off coming out. I've seen mechanics install new plugs with an impact wrench. And I even 'torqued' new ones in with a ratchet the first two times - with them "screeching". If the old plug was seized in the head with carbon when removed / the carbon would have to be binding on the new plug enough to crack the ceramic inside the plug, leaving it susceptible to arcing over inside. I'm pretty sure this is why my first TWO spark plug changes did nothing but just make the random misfire or intermittent misfire move to different cylinders.
This is a fairly simple and cheap thing to try - and it made logical sense to me even though it sounds so simple as to be stupid. But I believe this silly simple step is really what cured my annoying random misfire after having changed COP's, VTC Solenoids, O2 Sensors, one fuel Injector, COP Boots .....TWO sets of plugs.... and a ****load of other stuff chasing the problem.
Just my thoughts on the problem. Hope it helps someone.
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F150Torqued (06-10-2016)
06-08-2016, 06:20 PM
#918
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Had Plugs Changed @ Dealer for $325-None Broke!
I had my plugs changed @ 51K, my selling dealer told me not to wait much past 50K or else the ugly problems happen. Used Sea Foam for a month before change, only use Top Tier Gas, and had a fuel injection cleaning done right before the change. Coil Paks were still good-didn't change them at this time.
I was have some hot start issues, wouldn't always fire up on 1st start on random times. Ran good otherwise, no misfire, but noticed the gas mileage was dropping off some. I was shocked how much the center electrode had worn down, wouldn't have lasted another 15K at best guess.
Here's a pic (yes I know only 7 are showing-dlr lost 1 somewhere).
I will always change these @ 50K from now on.
The Ford dealer in MO was 50% cheaper than my original dealer in WI for replacing these plugs-so I'm glad I waited till I moved!
06 Screw 5.4L Factory Trailer Tow Pkg, 3.73 Limited Slip axle Long Bed Original Owner
I was have some hot start issues, wouldn't always fire up on 1st start on random times. Ran good otherwise, no misfire, but noticed the gas mileage was dropping off some. I was shocked how much the center electrode had worn down, wouldn't have lasted another 15K at best guess.
Here's a pic (yes I know only 7 are showing-dlr lost 1 somewhere).
I will always change these @ 50K from now on.
The Ford dealer in MO was 50% cheaper than my original dealer in WI for replacing these plugs-so I'm glad I waited till I moved!
06 Screw 5.4L Factory Trailer Tow Pkg, 3.73 Limited Slip axle Long Bed Original Owner
Last edited by FrozenTundraGuy; 06-08-2016 at 06:25 PM.
06-09-2016, 08:46 AM
#919
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Sea foam didn't help
I had my extractor kit ready on first plug change at 80k . poured in motorcraft carb cleaner cracked plugs 1/8 turn . Let set 2 days still broke 2 . Successfully extracted them out .
That carbon is going to build up around that tip no matter what . I use nickel anti seize on tips as instructed by ford TSB.
I used 2 cans of sea foam before I started . I don't think it was worth it . I have since poured carb cleaner in the hole to soften carbon but the nickel antiseize is the ticket . I tried to brush clean the hole but its too tricky with the brushes I found .
I use champion 7989 for the last three changes , no problem they won't break .
Dealer was good to you at $325 . But i can't guess what it would have been if some had broke .
I put antiseize on threads and torque the sparkplugs in . I plan to change plugs every 30 to 40 k .
Now at 161k after complete timing job ,lash adjusters ,valve rollers , 360 melling oil pump . Changed phasors but they were okay until I did a engine flush just before tear down , I expected that . Once your guides are gone its going to jump time-- mine did .
I believe the tensioner seals , poor oil pump ,plastic guides, lash adjusters are the main problems with the tick .
My bet is the seals and poor oil pump lead to the rest of the failures . I'm hoping the plastic guides and valve rollers will do better with good oil pressure . Time will tell . Use very good oil filters and get the old oil out of there early at 3 to 5 k . once the carbon deposits start getting hold you are in trouble .
That carbon is going to build up around that tip no matter what . I use nickel anti seize on tips as instructed by ford TSB.
I used 2 cans of sea foam before I started . I don't think it was worth it . I have since poured carb cleaner in the hole to soften carbon but the nickel antiseize is the ticket . I tried to brush clean the hole but its too tricky with the brushes I found .
I use champion 7989 for the last three changes , no problem they won't break .
Dealer was good to you at $325 . But i can't guess what it would have been if some had broke .
I put antiseize on threads and torque the sparkplugs in . I plan to change plugs every 30 to 40 k .
Now at 161k after complete timing job ,lash adjusters ,valve rollers , 360 melling oil pump . Changed phasors but they were okay until I did a engine flush just before tear down , I expected that . Once your guides are gone its going to jump time-- mine did .
I believe the tensioner seals , poor oil pump ,plastic guides, lash adjusters are the main problems with the tick .
My bet is the seals and poor oil pump lead to the rest of the failures . I'm hoping the plastic guides and valve rollers will do better with good oil pressure . Time will tell . Use very good oil filters and get the old oil out of there early at 3 to 5 k . once the carbon deposits start getting hold you are in trouble .
06-09-2016, 05:41 PM
#920
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: KC Metro-Missouri-formerly WI
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I've used Mobil 1 since new, change it about every 5-6K. I've used the following filters: Mobil 1, K & N Pro Series, and Motorcraft. I like Mobil 1, but they have become very pricey in past few years. I like Purolator Pure One filters, have used them on my other non-ford product with good luck.
The only other thing that bothered me was some oil consumption; not bad, about a quart every 3K or so. But all other vehicles I've owned never used any oil. I hear Ford V8's are known to use some oil
The only other thing that bothered me was some oil consumption; not bad, about a quart every 3K or so. But all other vehicles I've owned never used any oil. I hear Ford V8's are known to use some oil