5.4L 3V Spark Plugs Engine Build Dates before 10/09/07
01-10-2015, 09:49 PM
#851
Senior Member
Yeah I did mine today also. I have 100k on my 05 and plan on driving it another 100k so I hope the plugs last a while. Also went ahead and replaced the coil packs. Had a slight miss at about 45mph at certain times. Also flushed the coolent and changed from yellow to green. Suppose to be compatible with all vehicles but I flushed and drained it 3 times and also drained the block on the 3rd. Need to keep the ole girl in top shape. 
01-12-2015, 09:30 AM
#852
Did my plugs a while back-Have an extrctor kit to sell!!
Did my plugs back in August or so. Had to use the extractor to remove 2 broken plugs. If anyone wants to purchase a Lisle Extractor Kit, I used it to remove 2 plugs, they came out real easy!! In fact I can not really understand why they broke off. The extractor hardly did anything other than push the insulator down and thread into the extension. I virtually used my bare hands to do the removal of the shell. So if anyone wants to buy a extractor I've got one. I paid $99 for it. Give me $45 shipping looks to be around $5+/-.
01-19-2015, 12:18 AM
#853
LightningRod
Different ANGLE on 5.4L Spark Plug problem
I've NEVER seen anyone mention this in regard to the problem of spark plugs breaking off on removal.
I had random misfire under light acceleration (45-55 mph) on my 04 5.4L starting about 120,000 and I fought it for two years / 60k mi. I'm sure I spent $2500 replacing parts and 200 hrs labor swapping, changing, talking to mechanics and reading posts. Changed spark plugs TWICE. Broke five the first time and two the second time and all sounded like removing rusty lug nuts when removing them. Nether plug change helped the misfire problem, just moved to different cylinders.
One day I decided "IF THE CARBON BUILDUP AROUND THE SPARK PLUG IS SUFFICIENT TO TWIST THE ENDS OFF UPON REMOVAL - HOW THEN CAN I EXPECT TO SCREW A NEW PLUG BACK IN THE SAME HOLE WITHOUT DAMAGING THE SNOUT ON THE NEW PLUG OR "FRACTURING" THE CERAMIC INSULATION INSIDE THE SNOUT?" I had to use a ratchet with some significant torque to screw new plugs in. --- Perhaps, the carbon buildup in the spark plug hole was damaging new plugs on re-installation!!
I had never read a TSB or post talking about this possibility. So I bought a (third) set of new spark plugs (Motocraft SP515 this time) and spent $19.99 on a set of steel thread brushes, (similar to bottle brushes) with a "T" handle, from Harbor Freight. While replacing the plugs this time, I took the steel bottle brush (about the size my little finger) and cleaned the carbon out of the spark plug holes beyond the threaded part until a carburetor soaked rag would come back perfectly clean!! If not, I'd burnish the **** out of that hole again. When I got through, the new spark plugs screwed all the way down to the seat with my fingers just like putting them in a new engine head. Upon startup, INSTANTLY - BINGO - perfect startup, idle, and about 8k miles later without a single misfire. My OBD II diagnostic tool indicates ZERO misfires on all 8 cylinders in the last 10 drive cycles. At 197,000 its a perfect pleasure to drive - gradual acceleration is perfectly smooth until it shifts down and goes on like it did when it was brand new!!!!
IMHO, I believe MANY MANY people are damaging new plugs on re-install because of the same carbon that seized the old plug and broke it off coming out. I've seen mechanics install new plugs with an impact wrench. And I even 'torqued' new ones in with a ratchet the first two times - with them "screeching". If the old plug was seized in the head with carbon when removed / the carbon would have to be binding on the new plug enough to crack the ceramic inside the plug, leaving it susceptible to arcing over inside. I'm pretty sure this is why my first TWO spark plug changes did nothing but just make the random misfire or intermittent misfire move to different cylinders.
This is a fairly simple and cheap thing to try - and it made logical sense to me even though it sounds so simple as to be stupid. But I believe this silly simple step is really what cured my annoying random misfire after having changed COP's, VTC Solenoids, O2 Sensors, one fuel Injector, COP Boots .....TWO sets of plugs.... and a ****load of other stuff chasing the problem.
Just my thoughts on the problem. Hope it helps someone.
I had random misfire under light acceleration (45-55 mph) on my 04 5.4L starting about 120,000 and I fought it for two years / 60k mi. I'm sure I spent $2500 replacing parts and 200 hrs labor swapping, changing, talking to mechanics and reading posts. Changed spark plugs TWICE. Broke five the first time and two the second time and all sounded like removing rusty lug nuts when removing them. Nether plug change helped the misfire problem, just moved to different cylinders.
One day I decided "IF THE CARBON BUILDUP AROUND THE SPARK PLUG IS SUFFICIENT TO TWIST THE ENDS OFF UPON REMOVAL - HOW THEN CAN I EXPECT TO SCREW A NEW PLUG BACK IN THE SAME HOLE WITHOUT DAMAGING THE SNOUT ON THE NEW PLUG OR "FRACTURING" THE CERAMIC INSULATION INSIDE THE SNOUT?" I had to use a ratchet with some significant torque to screw new plugs in. --- Perhaps, the carbon buildup in the spark plug hole was damaging new plugs on re-installation!!
I had never read a TSB or post talking about this possibility. So I bought a (third) set of new spark plugs (Motocraft SP515 this time) and spent $19.99 on a set of steel thread brushes, (similar to bottle brushes) with a "T" handle, from Harbor Freight. While replacing the plugs this time, I took the steel bottle brush (about the size my little finger) and cleaned the carbon out of the spark plug holes beyond the threaded part until a carburetor soaked rag would come back perfectly clean!! If not, I'd burnish the **** out of that hole again. When I got through, the new spark plugs screwed all the way down to the seat with my fingers just like putting them in a new engine head. Upon startup, INSTANTLY - BINGO - perfect startup, idle, and about 8k miles later without a single misfire. My OBD II diagnostic tool indicates ZERO misfires on all 8 cylinders in the last 10 drive cycles. At 197,000 its a perfect pleasure to drive - gradual acceleration is perfectly smooth until it shifts down and goes on like it did when it was brand new!!!!
IMHO, I believe MANY MANY people are damaging new plugs on re-install because of the same carbon that seized the old plug and broke it off coming out. I've seen mechanics install new plugs with an impact wrench. And I even 'torqued' new ones in with a ratchet the first two times - with them "screeching". If the old plug was seized in the head with carbon when removed / the carbon would have to be binding on the new plug enough to crack the ceramic inside the plug, leaving it susceptible to arcing over inside. I'm pretty sure this is why my first TWO spark plug changes did nothing but just make the random misfire or intermittent misfire move to different cylinders.
This is a fairly simple and cheap thing to try - and it made logical sense to me even though it sounds so simple as to be stupid. But I believe this silly simple step is really what cured my annoying random misfire after having changed COP's, VTC Solenoids, O2 Sensors, one fuel Injector, COP Boots .....TWO sets of plugs.... and a ****load of other stuff chasing the problem.
Just my thoughts on the problem. Hope it helps someone.
Last edited by F150Torqued; 01-20-2015 at 10:30 AM. Reason: correct misspellings
The following 5 users liked this post by F150Torqued:
Handyman66 (05-29-2016),
LEN671 (03-18-2015),
redfishtd (01-20-2015),
SCORGE (01-17-2019),
techrep (01-19-2015)
01-20-2015, 03:40 AM
#854
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
very good point
I don't use two piece motor-craft plugs so I haven't had any more plug problems . I did use the ford carb cleaner soak on the first set as a pre soak per ford TSB.It did not work well but it did break down the carbon on the ones it got past the spark plug threads .
I think you are on to something , I use the nickel anti-seize "per ford TSB" on the 1 inch plug tip on my champion plugs so I haven't had any noises or trouble hand screwing in the spark plugs so far . I change plugs every 60k .
That carbon in the hole isn't good , I think I will try your fix along with some carb cleaner next time . That hot carbon in there could cause pre ignition and other problems.
I think you are on to something , I use the nickel anti-seize "per ford TSB" on the 1 inch plug tip on my champion plugs so I haven't had any noises or trouble hand screwing in the spark plugs so far . I change plugs every 60k .
That carbon in the hole isn't good , I think I will try your fix along with some carb cleaner next time . That hot carbon in there could cause pre ignition and other problems.
01-20-2015, 10:24 AM
#855
LightningRod
CARBON BUILDUP LEFT IN THE 5.4l SPARK PLUG WHOLE
@ redfishtd
I suspect if every owner of the problem series of 5.4L's changed plugs every 60K miles - AND CLEANED THE CARBON OUT OF THE PLUG HOLES each time, they might never have had a broken plug. The carbon build up in the hole would certainly be cumulative over time if not removed. However, I went 120k miles before my first plug change.
Another aspect of my theory about removing the CARBON BUILDUP FROM THE PLUG HOLE involves the "reason for the design" in the first place. (Not trying to justify Ford's screw up, just wondering "Where is the benefit"?) They certainly could have just moved the plug threads down closer to the combustion chamber and used standard plugs or used some existing longer thread plug.
I know from my high school hot rod days that "Hotter plugs" operate more efficiently. Resistance goes up as temperature goes up. Higher temperatures on the anode & cathode would therefore result in higher voltages to produce the spark and probably ionize the combustion gases more effectively. This is also the reason 'palladium' plugs are recommended. They'll better tolerate the higher temperatures.
Certainly that "1 inch snout" on the plug protruding down to the combustion chamber would reach temperatures almost equal to the combustion chamber itself. THAT IS IF IT IS NOT IN CONTACT WITH THE CYLINDER HEAD - which is constantly cooled by the water jackets.
IMHO, the CARBON BUILDUP, if it contacts the plug snout (and it certainly does when the plugs are seize - EVEN after a plug change), would tend to conduct heat away from the plug tip into the head / water jackets. I am not sure this may not explain why so many people report intermittent, random misfire or " bucking " under light load at low RPM (45-55 mph), with NO code set. I certainly was having that problem for a long time.
It is certainly TOO simple to clean the carbon out while changing the plugs. This is why I'm surprised never to have seen a TSB or post dealing with this issue.
I suspect if every owner of the problem series of 5.4L's changed plugs every 60K miles - AND CLEANED THE CARBON OUT OF THE PLUG HOLES each time, they might never have had a broken plug. The carbon build up in the hole would certainly be cumulative over time if not removed. However, I went 120k miles before my first plug change.
Another aspect of my theory about removing the CARBON BUILDUP FROM THE PLUG HOLE involves the "reason for the design" in the first place. (Not trying to justify Ford's screw up, just wondering "Where is the benefit"?) They certainly could have just moved the plug threads down closer to the combustion chamber and used standard plugs or used some existing longer thread plug.
I know from my high school hot rod days that "Hotter plugs" operate more efficiently. Resistance goes up as temperature goes up. Higher temperatures on the anode & cathode would therefore result in higher voltages to produce the spark and probably ionize the combustion gases more effectively. This is also the reason 'palladium' plugs are recommended. They'll better tolerate the higher temperatures.
Certainly that "1 inch snout" on the plug protruding down to the combustion chamber would reach temperatures almost equal to the combustion chamber itself. THAT IS IF IT IS NOT IN CONTACT WITH THE CYLINDER HEAD - which is constantly cooled by the water jackets.
IMHO, the CARBON BUILDUP, if it contacts the plug snout (and it certainly does when the plugs are seize - EVEN after a plug change), would tend to conduct heat away from the plug tip into the head / water jackets. I am not sure this may not explain why so many people report intermittent, random misfire or " bucking " under light load at low RPM (45-55 mph), with NO code set. I certainly was having that problem for a long time.
It is certainly TOO simple to clean the carbon out while changing the plugs. This is why I'm surprised never to have seen a TSB or post dealing with this issue.
Last edited by F150Torqued; 01-20-2015 at 10:32 AM. Reason: Correct misspellings
The following users liked this post:
LEN671 (03-18-2015)
02-05-2015, 07:48 PM
#856
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Frustrated!!!!!
I haven't read all the posts on this plug issue but, I have used the double platinums and 2 days ago I began a simple plug change and 2 days later my truck it's still in the garage because while removing #2 cylinder plug SNAP oh yeah I think I wrote a new book on profanity. Issue is just the hex part of the plug broke off. Any thoughts on best removal. I know I have listed specific info on truck. honestly I just need to know how to get it out I'll update my info later. Respectfully
02-05-2015, 08:15 PM
#857
Senior Member
I haven't read all the posts on this plug issue but, I have used the double platinums and 2 days ago I began a simple plug change and 2 days later my truck it's still in the garage because while removing #2 cylinder plug SNAP oh yeah I think I wrote a new book on profanity. Issue is just the hex part of the plug broke off. Any thoughts on best removal. I know I have listed specific info on truck. honestly I just need to know how to get it out I'll update my info later. Respectfully
Get the Lylse tool. If the top part of the plug is still connected, you should be able to break it off with a set of needle nose pliers and then insert the lylse tool and twist the plug right out. Happens all the time, good luck, let us know how it goes.
Tom
02-22-2015, 02:50 PM
#858
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Lisle 65600 Tool for sale
If anyone is interested I have a Lisle 65600 Spark plug removal tool for sale. It was only used on 3 spark plugs, and it worked great. I have no use for it so, I will sell it for $30 with free shipping. Just PM me.
03-11-2015, 07:29 AM
#859
stripped threads
Had my plugs replaced the other day, 2 broke off here but one seems to of resulted in damaged threads.
What's Ford's approved method of repair on the 3v 5.4L engines? I know the 2v have the lock-n-stitch but seems they do not make it for 3v.... I'm aware of timesert but more interested in what Ford's approved repair is for stripped threads on the 3v.
What's Ford's approved method of repair on the 3v 5.4L engines? I know the 2v have the lock-n-stitch but seems they do not make it for 3v.... I'm aware of timesert but more interested in what Ford's approved repair is for stripped threads on the 3v.
03-13-2015, 12:32 PM
#860
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Seems like I read that when you strip the threads they have to pull the head. Might want to ask the shop just in case....Whoever designed this spark plug aluminum head idea needs kicked in the ding-ding.