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Old 01-26-2011, 11:59 PM   #61
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Just spent the last 5 hours changing plugs. Pulled the battery, computer on the passenger side, and battery.... just for extra room. Broke all 8 plugs. Had the lisle tool on hand and worked great!
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Old 01-29-2011, 03:22 PM   #62
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this is been really helpful
i got a 2007 F150 XLT with the 5.4l does any one know how i can find out if it may have the spark plug issue or not.
its just rolled up to 82xxx km i just got the truck 3 months ago I'm planing on doing a full overhaul this summer ex diffs,radator,tranny...ect i work for a logging company
so this stuff it religion to them its kinda worn off on me.
i figure i may do the plugs then.

thanks
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Old 01-29-2011, 04:31 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by 07f150xlt View Post
i got a 2007 F150 XLT with the 5.4l does any one know how i can find out if it may have the spark plug issue or not.
I believe all of the 07s have the two piece plugs, I think 10/09/07 was during the 08 production.

You can just pull a coil and check the boots, if it's brown, you're ok.
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Old 02-04-2011, 09:57 PM   #64
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i believe i was 1 of the lucky ones soaked plugs 3 hrs then started engine let get hot then shut off and resoaked again did this 3 times heard to many horror stories on breaking off a plug my penetrating fluid was PB blaster good luck
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:00 PM   #65
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Default spark plugs 5.4

This site has been great for imformation on changing plugs,I finally took on the task off changing them myself on my 2004 lariat with less than 100,000 I did as the tsb calls for ,cracked the plugs 1/4 turn and sprayed the night before, that morning sprayed again then started to remove plugs,these plugs were tight to get out and made alot of noise on removal,I took my time and I still broke 4 of the 8 ,the lisle tool took no time to get them out and I had no problems using it for the first time,I duct taped a small tube to my shop vac that went right into the spark plug hole and sucked up any ceramic that might have falling in and in less than 3 1/2 hours I was finished ,replaced with the factory motorcraft plugs , thanks for all the advice and the info in this forum. thanks guys
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Old 02-09-2011, 10:04 PM   #66
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Default E3 plugs

There has been alot of questions in regaurds to the e3 plugs. I emailed the co and this is the reply i got back. Just have to find out where to buy them. I am going to try then, if ford is considering using them in the future they must be ok, better them p.o.s oem 2- piece design. I will do the change in the spring, so I will update then.

Thank you for your interest in E3 Spark Plugs. The replacement for your 2007 Ford F-150 5.4L V8 is an E3.70. It is a one piece design.

If you have any other questions or concerns feel free to contact me.

Chris LaCouture
E3 Spark Plugs
clacouture@e3sparkplugs.com
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:57 PM   #67
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Default Anti-Seize

I'm getting ready to do my plugs. Iíve got everything including the Lisle tool. I'm using the Motorcraft Plugs SP-507's. My question is about the anti-seize. The TSB 08-07-06 calls out Motorcraft High Temp Nickel anti-seize. The stealership doesnít carry any and I donít want to go 45 min out of my way to get some overpriced anti-seize. I wasn't able to find anything other than Permatex High Temp Aluminum based anti-seize at AutoZone. Does anyone know if there is a difference and would it cause any issues later? I know the heads are aluminum and it makes sense that using an aluminum based lubricant on aluminum should work. What is everyone else using?

I may be making more out of this than I should be, but I'm a little neurotic like that. Iíll let you guys know how the removal goes. Wish me luckÖ
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Old 02-13-2011, 04:20 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by BlackBrant View Post
I'm getting ready to do my plugs. Iíve got everything including the Lisle tool. I'm using the Motorcraft Plugs SP-507's. My question is about the anti-seize. The TSB 08-07-06 calls out Motorcraft High Temp Nickel anti-seize. The stealership doesnít carry any and I donít want to go 45 min out of my way to get some overpriced anti-seize. I wasn't able to find anything other than Permatex High Temp Aluminum based anti-seize at AutoZone. Does anyone know if there is a difference and would it cause any issues later? I know the heads are aluminum and it makes sense that using an aluminum based lubricant on aluminum should work. What is everyone else using?

I may be making more out of this than I should be, but I'm a little neurotic like that. Iíll let you guys know how the removal goes. Wish me luckÖ
I went out of my way to get the nickel, it protects up to 2600 degrees whereas the others only go to 1600 degrees i believe. I did everything i could to make the future changes easy as possible. im in the middle of changing them, i had 2 brake (one the ceramic broke and the other ceramic is still in one piece) waiting for the lisle tool to come in. other 6 are changed out and replaced.

For my question for the one i had the ceramic stay intact i tried pulling on it with the long nose needle nose and it doesnt feel like it will budge, im worried i will snap it. any thoughts? should i just pull harder i guess i either have to pull it out or brake it anyway for the lisle tool
thanks
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Old 02-13-2011, 06:14 PM   #69
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I went out of my way to get the nickel, it protects up to 2600 degrees whereas the others only go to 1600 degrees i believe. I did everything i could to make the future changes easy as possible. im in the middle of changing them, i had 2 brake (one the ceramic broke and the other ceramic is still in one piece) waiting for the lisle tool to come in. other 6 are changed out and replaced.

For my question for the one i had the ceramic stay intact i tried pulling on it with the long nose needle nose and it doesnt feel like it will budge, im worried i will snap it. any thoughts? should i just pull harder i guess i either have to pull it out or brake it anyway for the lisle tool
thanks
Yea, I researched a little more on the web (after I posted the question, sorry) and found out that the biggest difference was the temp rating. I'm going to do the same and go with the nickle. Thanks for your help.

As far as your stuck plug problem...as far as I can tell, others have simply pulled out the ceramic using the needle nose pliers. It may be a little tight but with the Lisle tool you can still get it out if it does break. Give it a couple light wiggles and see if she'll break loose. I mean, come loose. Sorry bout that. Good luck!

The TSP link at the beginning of this post has proceedures starting on page 5 (Mode 2).
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Last edited by BlackBrant; 02-13-2011 at 06:21 PM.
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Old 02-13-2011, 11:39 PM   #70
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One more thing i have found to be helpful, spray some pb in each one before breaking the plugs loose, the first 1/4 turn would be when the the plug breaks
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Old 02-13-2011, 11:39 PM
 
 
 
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