winnerverse

Did i hear right, the video u posted i watched it around 6.16 minutes in he says if you had to spary in to wells for a 3rd time do disable blah to keep from starting, then crank engine without your plugs in to suck out the fluids used then he says to go ahead and remove plugs (shouldnt that happen after u take the plugs out) DID I HEAR RIGHT. Or did he miss a step just wondering.

proftomda

Winnerverse: I didn't watch the video so not sure about accuracy of it but what he is trying to say is to crank the engine over a few times with the spark plug removed if you think you dumped a large amount of pb blaster / carb cleaner down spark plug hole.... What I did was after unscrewing old plug out most of the way but before removing plug, I would blow out spark plug tube real good with shop air. I didn't crank the engine over.

KingRanch4Life

iTrader: (2)

Sounded like he said that... But I think he said if you have to soak it a third time then to crank the engine to blow out the excess..

nufan

just an FYI...I called a local shop and they said they would do the spark plugs for $350, plus $50 for any that broke.
The shop said they are very familiar with these engines and have the extraction tool on hand. They "said" they have never had more than 3 break on them.
To quote, "My guys hate doing those extractions, so we are very careful not to break them"
I am going to check other shops, but just wanted to pass along that info to see if it sounded accurate.

cc350

Well I did my spark plugs today... Plugs were $70.00 Motorcrafts. Lisle 65600 Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford Triton 3 Valve Engines $85.00. $3.50 for .5 oz Nickel anti-seize. Followed Fords TSB to the tee, started on drivers side let truck sit overnight, sprayed carb cleaner to the top of the plug nut waited 20 mins did 1/8-1/4 turns back and forth and broke all 4, tool worked great to remove. So figured if the first 4 broke anyway I decided to skip the cleaner wd-40 pb blaster and do them dry (Since the tool was easy). To my surprise the passenger side came out without breaking any. Go figure. Took just over 5 hrs. to complete job. Saved some good money!! Dealer wanted $250.00 materials $450.00 Labor and 1hr. Labor for each broke plug. Overall the job wasn't bad, more fear than anything. Just to note 2005 F150 5.4 Scab XLT 4x4 70k miles Factory plugs. Gaps were all .90 and larger gaps had a miss under load.

FX4_MAYHEM

I have an 2006 fx4 crew, i was having huge misfire problems! i changed the coils, still missfiring. so i decided to change the plugs.i seafoamed the engine, and soaked the plugs in pb blaster for 2 hours and still broke 6 0f the eight plugs. and of course the back one on the passenger side broke. i used the champion 1 piece 7989 and my truck runs like a top now! i have 190k on the truck and i bought it used with 150 k. and would you believe that it was the original plugs, who leaves plugs in for 150 k idiots i tell you. anyway i had the lisle tool and i cant stress enough , if your gonna attemt this job, buy this tool before you start because you WILL break some if not all the plugs it saved my life and it was super easy to use. dont be affraid of the champion 7989 1 piece plugs, my truck runs great on them.

1917-1911M

If I had it to do over again I wouldn't even worry about breaking any. The Lisle tool works great. I'd just unscrew them...no soaking, no oil, no carb cleaner. I did all of that...didn't help. four cans of seafoam, plugs were very clean....still broke. I think they break when you break them loose or they don't. Luck of the draw but that tool works really well. M1911

C MY 4D

This one should be fun!
I am a technician at Lexus, am a Mustang enthusiast and spent some time in the aftermarket. I have gotten pretty good at removing these plugs. I can now do a set in about an hour without breaking any. The trick is seafoam the combustion chamber first then use PB Blaster and wiggle them back and forth like tapping a hole. But that's not why I am here.
I have a customer that decided to go to the Ford store to have their plugs changed. Well whoever was working on it didn't take their time and left one hell of a mess. Three broken plugs, two of them are no problem the extraction tool knocked those out in 15 mins. The last one is a different story, It didn't break like normal. The plug broke at the top of the threads. so most of the porcelain came out like normal the 9/16 head and about 2 threads.
Ford didn't attempt removal and slapped the customer with a $5000 estimate. That's when the truck was towed to me. So far I have pushed the remaining porcelain to the base of the plug and attempted to use an easy out to remove what is left. Thankfully the easy out grabbed the ground strap and remaining porcelain and that is now removed but the threaded portion remains seized in the head. Has anyone ran into this issue and have they been able to remove the threaded portion with out removing the cylinder head?

cornninja

after reading 1 horror story after another well i got the lisle tool and will get other stuff tomorrow,the plug i got broke now came out with ring on it but how does one get the porcelain flush in the hole? mine is jagged any imput

cc350

Just use the lisle tool as directed. Push the porcelain down then extract. I had same thing on 1 plug.